HEL SS Brake lines

mikebn09

Well-Known Member
I have purchased a full set for my 2009 FZ1-N and wondered about the best way to completely drain the old fluid.

I have some bleeding pipes so just a case of procedure. Dismantle or pump out with the leaver.

Some experience would be great. I’ll post photos once I tackle it over Christmas.

Cheers
 
Get a brake bleeder. They are relatively cheap and worth every penny. Then finish with a final bleed using the lever. Be very careful not to get fluid on anything, it will kill the pads and discolor paint/plastic.
 
I had the guys at the shop do my install. I know it's relatively easy, but I kinda made a promise at one point not to tinker on anything that if it fails, I might die. Even when the shop did it after a day or two I was getting brake fade in the front, took it back in and they had to bleed the brakes again.
 
I had the guys at the shop do my install. I know it's relatively easy, but I kinda made a promise at one point not to tinker on anything that if it fails, I might die. Even when the shop did it after a day or two I was getting brake fade in the front, took it back in and they had to bleed the brakes again.

I understand your thinking, but I see it differently. I care more about me dying than the guy wrenching on my stuff. If I do it, I know it is done right. You made this point when you had to take it back.
 
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If I do it, I know it is done right. You made this point when you had to take it back.

It sounds all great and noble to say that but lots of people out there can't and shouldn't ever perform their own maintenance. They might think the same thing as you do while they're cross threading every bolt and breaking every fastener.

I've walked away from many 'mint' bikes that have 'been immaculately maintained by owner' because it looked a gorilla worked on it. People don't put any care or attention into their work and always wind up doing a shit job. They claim they care more than any mechanic but the proof lies in the result.

We can't all be like Lee (Oldschool). That man is like a robot
 
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I had the guys at the shop do my install. I know it's relatively easy, but I kinda made a promise at one point not to tinker on anything that if it fails, I might die. Even when the shop did it after a day or two I was getting brake fade in the front, took it back in and they had to bleed the brakes again.

I actually do all my installs/mods myself because I trust my own work much more than anyone at my crappy local Yamaha dealer.
 
It sounds all great and noble to say that but lots of people out there can't and shouldn't ever perform their own maintenance. They might think the same thing as you do while they're cross threading every bolt and breaking every fastener.

I've walked away from many 'mint' bikes that have 'been immaculately maintained by owner' because it looked a gorilla worked on it. People don't put any care or attention into their work and always wind up doing a shit job. They claim they care more than any mechanic but the proof lies in the result.

We can't all be like Lee (Oldschool). That man is like a robot

Thanks, I think, but I do more and more mechanical stuff as time goes by for a few reasons. Shop charges are so much more than I make per hour, It is easy to research just about anything you want to do, and I have built up enough tools to do almost any basic job on my machines.

I understand and can remember the hesitance of doing something as basic as a brake bleed / line swap, but having a winter of time on my hands each year, I took the plunge with the FZ1. I was fortunate to have seen "How To" pictures and video from other members here and was extremely careful when removing, draining, and replacing parts.

Not having become blase' about bolt tightening, despite the mechanic's abuse at work, I own and use 1 of 3 torque wrenches on almost every bolt, with the owners, or shop manuals close at hand.

Check the documents several times and do it right once.

As Dustin pointed out, I to have owned "back-yard-mechanic specials" My first Bike, a 1978 Yamaha XS-400 had every screw, and bolt rounded off from one of the 2 tools (Phillips screw driver, and a Vise-grips) that the previous owner had.

If you don't have the tools or don't have the aptitude (or confidence) and can justify the expense of the shop, I don't see a problem with that. After all, done right once is always cheaper than someone else having to fix a mistake on today's expensive alloy machines.


To the OP:

Yes use the bleeder, when I did mine I used a hand pump bleeder and it worked great!. Make sure the reservoir is completely level (adjust it on the handle bar by loosening the mount), and if you can have someone help you. If you do a standard, suction bleed (draining from the bottom), have your buddy keep the reservoir from sucking air, by adding fresh fluid before it is completely empty. Do one line at a time until clean fluid come out with no bubbles, which is easy to see in the bleeder line.

The other option, once new lines are on and the lines and reservoir are empty is to "reverse bleed" using a large syringe and slowly forcing fluid up the lines into the reservoir. I do my clutch slave like this and it works great. You can start with a totally empty (clean) reservoir but you have to really pay attention so you don't overflow and spill on paint, etc. A large towel wrapped around and under the reservoir prevents any unpleasant accidents.

Once you are all done and everything (including the reservoir) are all tightened up I pump the lever until it is firm (feels normal), making sure they release and the wheel spins freely. Then squeeze the lever and zip-tie it in the applied position over night (or for a few hours) so any air bubbles can find their way up to the reservoir. Some videos show doing this and gently tapping the lines from bottom to top to get any tiny air bubbles to travel up and out.

Galfer Brakes - Installing brake lines - YouTube

Galfer Brakes - Bleeding Brake Lines - YouTube

The above videos were what I watched (two of) before I did mine.
 
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