Good read on MC oil

Octupi

Octupi

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For those that like their synthetics, here's a good read.

Personally, I've been running Amsoil for 15+ years in all my bikes and cars, so at first oil change I will be changing my FZ1 over to it. I'm not promoting one over the other, but this is one informational document.

ARTICLE FOUND HERE
 
Yes, that was a good read. Last time I changed my oil I used the Valvoline 4-Stroke 10W40 Motorcycle oil from the local Autozone. It was only $3.99/quart so relatively inexpensive and ranked number 5...not bad in my book.
 
This was a great article, I'm going to try amsoil for my next two changes. While we are on the subject of oil changes when is the best time to change my oil? Should I change it before I put the bike up for the season or at the beginning of the next? That is if I don't hit the mileage necessary to change the oil, but what if it's close to that number?
 
I buy whatever is on sale at Cycle Gear; usually it's Castrol of one type or another. I try to say below the $4.00 mark. What I do spend a little extra on is the oil filter; I like the K&N because I can put a wrench on it, and it's pre-drilled for safety wire. :icon_beer:
 
I can understand that when a distributor does a study it's preatty hard to take what they say as fact. I really enjoyed this report because they used cited scientific experiments to test the different products and their product wasn't always number one. I can't say that the study wasn't a little subject but when you back up your words with lab tests it's a little hard to call them liars. Thanks Octupi it made a believer out of me, I can't wait to try the product for myself.
 
FZ1fun said:
I can understand that when a distributor does a study it's preatty hard to take what they say as fact. I really enjoyed this report because they used cited scientific experiments to test the different products and their product wasn't always number one. I can't say that the study wasn't a little subject but when you back up your words with lab tests it's a little hard to call them liars. Thanks Octupi it made a believer out of me, I can't wait to try the product for myself.
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Never called them liars, I just find it interesting that their primary competitor is consistently at the bottom. Now if the results were from Blackstone Labs I wouldn't doubt it at all. Call me skeptical.

For example here's a independent oil test from Sport Rider:

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0310_oil/index.html
 
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the first and only time ive changed the oil so far i picked yamalube. it was "performance full synthetic" and i believe it was 15W-50. It was pretty pricey as i recall three quarts and a yamaha oil filter ran me about 64 USD. I think next time im going to try mobil 1. pretty sure im soon due for an oil change, ill let yall know what i think.
 
Thats why I posted it, you can make your own decisions. I know what has worked for me.

My Roadstar ran great and 15 degrees cooler w/ amsoil, never really checked the mileage.

I run it in all my cars, present and past. I change the filter at 6mo and full oil change once a year. Recommended change is 25k miles on cars or 1 year, I always hit the one year first. I run it in a '95 Lexus LS400 that has 180K+ miles on it and still avg 25mpg highway and no oil use.

The thing is, if you run Amsoil, make sure to run their filter, it filters to 1 micron, this is why their scar rating is so good, nothing moves through the filter other than the oil.
 
Hellgate said:
Never called them liars, I just find it interesting that their primary competitor is consistently at the bottom. Now if the results were from Blackstone Labs I wouldn't doubt it at all. Call me skeptical.

For example here's a independent oil test from Sport Rider:

Oils Well That Ends Well, Part 1 - Sport Rider Magazine
Oils Well That Ends Well, Part 2 - Sport Rider Magazine
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Thanks for the links, they answered one of my questions from earlier in the post. O well everyone has there own preferences, I know I payed $6 a quart for yamalube 20W-50 and I won't ever do that again.
 
Just remember that no publication is "independent"...someone paid for it and typically has a motive.

Being an engineer, if test methods aren't described or outlined then I doubt the results as well as the source.

My .02
 
Awhile ago someone posted a great article/site comparing Oil Filters. I cannot find it. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Great article. I guess I will stop using Penzoil.
 
Octupi said:
Just remember that no publication is "independent"...someone paid for it and typically has a motive.

Being an engineer, if test methods aren't described or outlined then I doubt the results as well as the source.

My .02
Click to expand...

:+2: Exactly what I was thinking.
 
Synthetic recipe

The great thing about synthetic is that it's made of ingredients, or rather it has a recipe, thus not allowing inclusion of some of the harmfull componants of petro oils. You'll remember hearing refference to crude as 'sweet', well that means crude with low sulphur content. We all know what sulphuric acid does to battery posts....corrosion. Petro oils have certain componants in their crude form, some can be removed, others not, at least not by current refining technologies. An often time used additive is chlorene..... theres a chemical name for it as additives go, but basically its chlorene. It's super slippery, did you ever feel it between your fingers? Another additive is zinc. There are more, but these two are usually the most used in motor oil.

One thing about chlorene is that with the addition of water H2O, it becomes a hydrocloric compound. Condensation can introduce H2O into the crankcase, thus forming the acids. That is why you'v heard it's not good to start a motor for breif periods and not let it fully warm up.....thats because the water vapor 'condensation' will not be fully burnt 'steamed' off and small amounts in the crankcase will combine to form these acids. There's a good deal of negativity concerning petro oils in these reguards with certain addatives. Another one to avoid is pollytetrafloroletheline....comonly known as 'TEFLON'. In suspension its (ok), but it seldom stays in suspention, thus cloging oil passages or anywhere where paassages reduce in size and such.

I won't go into all the stuff not so good about petro oils, just take my word for it, 4 quarts of Mobil 1 and the 108 Mobil 1 filter will give you all you need, and years of trouble free motor life.

Other synthetics and filters included.....
 
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