General Mods??

I like the yosh r77 titanium exhaust and will probably go with that once I dig into my wallet. Did you notice a big difference when you switched out the forks to the R1 forks?
 
The full yosh R77 system can give a nice midrange boost in addition to gains at the top end. The stock header is a compromise design to fit the cat so even gutting it and installing a slipon will not net the same results (softer midrange) than switching to the full system. "Titanium" is simply the material choice for the can (Stainless and Carbon Fiber are also options). Switching to the full Yosh is something like a 15lb weight reduction over stock.

Keep in mind that changing the exhaust system should be done along with altering the fueling (PCIII or PCV) and intake (flies, filter, airbox mod) in order to achieve proper gains.
You may want to hold off at least some of the mods (FCE, Flies, Ignition module) until Ivan gets his ECU service sorted out. It should eliminate the need for the FCE and IM and may or may not work best with stock flies.

The R1 forks have the benefits of compression and rebound adjustability in both forks while the stockers are a cheaper less sophisticated design. They (the R1s) are also about 1cm shorter. Overall effect is to quicken steering with a more settled overall front end feel. The 6 pot radial calipers (and radial design master cylinder) provide 1 finger braking that is very easy to modulate. Its a nice upgrade for sure but look towards improving the rear shock first as the stock piece is truly sh*t.

Have fun!
 
eurban said:
Crikey! YES THE BIKE IS RESTRICTED IN LOWER GEARS. It is a combination of timing and secondary throttle plate control.

Stock bike makes about 125hp at the crank. A "full package" bike (see my signature for the mods) will make close to 150hp. I
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Well in Europe I found lots of Dynocharts of stock bike pulling 150 HP. Here in the US the bikes seem to perform less, maybe the ethanol in the fuel?
 
Ok, so if I just add the R77 system to the bike I am not going to harm it in any way am I, I am assuming I will have to buy the servo delete thingy too haha. I would just like to get the new exhaust on and build up from there, the stock can is just so ugly and I don't want to just get a slip on since I can afford an entire system and plan bigger mods from here on out. I am literally minutes from ordering the full exhaust lol.
 
The full exhaust will not harm the bike ;). However a PCV is needed to get the full performance from it.
The servo eliminator is not needed, just leave the motor in and only remove the cables.
 
Just ordered the R77 full exhaust with carbon can/tip. I think it will look good on my grey/black bike. Should be at my house by the time I get off the Slope, still got a month and a half waiting for Alaska to thaw out before I can ride anyways haha. Maybe halfway through the season I will add a PCV and other little bits to get some more power throughout this riding season so I don't add 20 hp right off the bat and have to relearn how to ride the monster right off the bat haha
 
Dreamdemon said:
Well in Europe I found lots of Dynocharts of stock bike pulling 150 HP. Here in the US the bikes seem to perform less, maybe the ethanol in the fuel?
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I can just about guarantee you that the European bikes make essentially the same power as the US bikes. Can you link those dyno charts? . . ..Dyno's vary significantly (even the same model dyno) as do the conditions under which the tests are made. That said, it would be a have to be a ridiculously high reading dyno that shows a stock FZ1 with its corked up dual cat exhaust making anywhere close to 150hp at the rear wheel. Regardless, the difference in power output (and the quality of that output) between a stock bike and a "full package" machine is very significant. These bikes respond amazingly well to the proper mods whether they are in the US or Europe.
 
The charts are from Germany's largest motorcycle paper. They are extremely reliable and measure every bike several times and give errors on their evaluations like it should be done (+-5% in case of the dyno).

Test: Yamaha FZ1 ABS - Technische Daten & Leistungsdiagramm - Motorradtests - MOTORRAD online

The site is in German but you can see two different model years back to back compared on the same dyno the same day. Never ever was any Fz1 measured by them below 145. In many comparison test they dynoed the bike and I think it must have been about 10 different models over the years.

On the other hand the R1 usually came 15 HP short.

Here in the US I saw some charts at the local shop and they were all about 135-140. Considerable lower compared to the values I know from the EU but still ok. I guess 125 HP must have been a bad bike or not properly broken in? Well that would only account for about 4-6% as well.
 
The local Dyno near me is a Fuche and it calculates for drivetrain and ambient conditions power loss. My 07 showed 151hp stock and 173 with airbox mod, small flies, FCE, pcIII, gutted cat and slipon. Just the rearwheel reading was good for 143hp with full mods.
I'd guess Motorrad is using the calculated figures.
 
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Ah ok Rearwheel HP is something different. The companies (Yamaha ect.) only give crankshaft HP so that is what they compare too. Of course rear wheel HP is always much lower.

On the other hand Motorrad corrects there values as well, have to check what they correct and how this is done.
 
"Correction" would involve applying a factor to the results to adjust for differences in air density from one test to another (whether it is the same dyno or any dyno anywhere in the world) Air pressure and temperature will affect the air density and can have a significant effect on power output.
In addition, crank horsepower was not directly measured but rather calculated from the rear wheel HP that they measured on their dyno. Correction may refer to this adjustment to their results to get the crank HP.
 
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So I got the Yosh R-77 kit on and there is a lot of blow-by at the joints. Is this normal? Should I get some exhaust band clamps to close them off?
 
That is what I thought, it seems to be the worst where the muffler joint is. I will just have to track down some band clamps for it and make sure it is air tight.
 
gconk said:
That is what I thought, it seems to be the worst where the muffler joint is. I will just have to track down some band clamps for it and make sure it is air tight.
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My R77 doesn't leak at all. You shouldn't need any clamps. It's your bike, but I feel that any clamps would detract from the looks and make future disassembly problematic. You bought an expensive exhaust system, it should work without the need for clamps . . .

Did you use a rubber mallet to seat the pieces together? It took a bit of persuasion to get the joints seated fully. Are you sure that you have the parts installed in the correct orientation? Maybe take some pics and let us have a look . . .
 
Here is the best shot of it that I got. I work on location on oil rigs so I cant get better pictures until I fly home. Really all of the joints seemed to be a nice tight fit until I got to the one before last and the last one. The "header" sections all fit nice and tight with no blow by. just the last two joints with the final joint being the worst.
 
I can tell you that I have done almost all the available performance mods and it gives you a bike that is way easier to ride. Of coarse, all the added performance would mean jack if I had not gotten the suspension set up.
 
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there?
That is strange. You might want to ask yoshi direct or shoot them a line.
 
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