Gen II Transmission

Adjust your shift lever down a little and do the washer mod. I had the part number for the SS washers that fit perfectly but they are lost on the FZ1OA site that crashed. I'll look in the garage later to see if I wrote it down.

You just take the first washer off that is rubber coated on the back and replace it with a SS washer and all the flex is gone. You can get rid of the squishy air pillow foot rests by replacing them with the FZ6's low profile rubber foot rests.
 
Say " Wha"!!!?

Johnnylane said:
When I was shopping for the new bike, it came down to the FZ1 or an S2R Monster. The Duc was perhaps sexier, but did not have the same power and of course more vibration. The transmission on that thing was like a watch. It truly \\"snicked\\" into each gear.

The Yamaha just is not the same in this department, but that's what I bought and I love her all the same.
Click to expand...


Wow I tink I gotta put up my hand here and say "wha?" I think I trust the guys who make Valentino Rossi's equipment a little more than one built by one of the crazy cousins of Enzo Ferrari:innocent: Just my 2 bits, but I have ridden with a shitload of those ravioli riders, and they not unlike their American counterparts in the big twin business always looked seriously ripped off and definetly pissed when I pass them sitting on the side of the road with their broken "art work"! I will admit as fast as anyone that all the Italiians make swell looking bikes, as HD makes loud bikes, I ride what I ride because I like to ride not look cool sitting at some cafe or more than likely sitting waiting for a truck to come and get them. Look at the reason you bought the FZ1... it certainly wasn't cuz it was the beauty contest winner, I bought this bike because it works everytime you want to ride it! Same with my GEN I, same with the 11 V-max's I have owned, my point being that will I will always admire Italian bikes and cars, I love the fact that with the exception of maintenence, I have rarely ever been stuck SOL by japanese products in general, but Yamaha in particular, and if it weren't for the constant need to go faster, I would rarely if ever have to spend money on parts.
I sold an almost brand new 2002 Chevy longbed p/u last year (10,000 miles on it), because I got tired of getting home from a ride and having to turn around and go back and get Squigy on his Guzzi, cause he couldn't fit his bike in his wife's Beemer! Well that and $4 gas:eek: Ride rice so you can ride not sit outside some assclowns shop looking at your bike while it waits it's turn to burn an enormous hole in your wallet.

And I don't even want to get into that whole douchbag thing that seems to permiate all Volkswagen, Audi, Volvo, and Saab (VAVS I call them!) owners, a similar aroma seems to follow the pretensious guys who buy for style over substance. Just my subjective opinion, I could be wrong. Although I will also add, I would totally own any of them old BMW bikes from the 60's and 70's, say what you will about the Germans, that old world engineering shows thru to this day, all that being said, I love my FZ1 and for now the only thing I want is to go faster on it!
 
Johnnylane said:
More photos.


The arm measures about one inch from shaft center to shaft center.
Click to expand...

Judging by that photo I reckon its the position of the shift arm. I appears too far forward, & maybe near the end of its travel when changing gear, resulting in missed shifts. Pull the shift arm off the shift shaft & rotate it back one notch on the spline of the shift shaft IE shift arm more vertical. Position of shift pedal can be adjusted via the shift rod if need be.
 
racerbruce said:
Wow I tink I gotta put up my hand here and say \"wha?\" I think I trust the guys who make Valentino Rossi's equipment a little more than one built by one of the crazy cousins of Enzo Ferrari:innocent: Just my 2 bits, but I have ridden with a shitload of those ravioli riders, and they not unlike their American counterparts in the big twin business always looked seriously ripped off and definetly pissed when I pass them sitting on the side of the road with their broken \"art work\"! I will admit as fast as anyone that all the Italiians make swell looking bikes, as HD makes loud bikes, I ride what I ride because I like to ride not look cool sitting at some cafe or more than likely sitting waiting for a truck to come and get them. Look at the reason you bought the FZ1... it certainly wasn't cuz it was the beauty contest winner, I bought this bike because it works everytime you want to ride it! Same with my GEN I, same with the 11 V-max's I have owned, my point being that will I will always admire Italian bikes and cars, I [SIZE=\"5\"]love[/SIZE] the fact that with the exception of maintenence, I have rarely ever been stuck SOL by japanese products in general, but Yamaha in particular, and if it weren't for the constant need to go faster, I would rarely if ever have to spend money on parts.
I sold an almost brand new 2002 Chevy longbed p/u last year (10,000 miles on it), because I got tired of getting home from a ride and having to turn around and go back and get Squigy on his Guzzi, cause he couldn't fit his bike in his wife's Beemer! Well that and $4 gas:eek: Ride rice so you can ride not sit outside some assclowns shop looking at your bike while it waits it's turn to burn an enormous hole in your wallet.

And I don't even want to get into that whole douchbag thing that seems to permiate all Volkswagen, Audi, Volvo, and Saab (VAVS I call them!) owners, a similar aroma seems to follow the pretensious guys who buy for style over substance. Just my subjective opinion, I could be wrong. Although I will also add, I would totally own any of them old BMW bikes from the 60's and 70's, say what you will about the Germans, that old world engineering shows thru to this day, all that being said, I love my FZ1 and for now the only thing I want is to go faster on it!
Click to expand...

Couldn't agree more. Beautifully said. :lol:
 
From your picture, you have the shifting rod almost maxxed out limiting its ability to shift the trasmission.

Also, looking at the picture (2nd set) the gear shifter is inline with your foot peg, also limiting its ability to do a complete shift.

Try adjusting the shifting rod to lower the gear shift, (loosen the two locking screws on the shifting rod and rotate clock/counter-clockwise to lower the gear shift) say by 3/4-1" for starters below the foot peg, you should be able to get things working properly again. Might take a few times to get it back to its original state, but don't try doing any long distance rides until you get it back to your satisfaction (or carry the 10mm to be able to adjust as needed --size of nut on a Gen I)

I don't think that you need to adjust the shift arm (unless you removed it from its original factory position while performing some other work on the bike)

I offer some advice on the premise of what I encountered when I changed out my rearsets from factory to a Gilles for a Gen 1. I had a learning curve, but I eventually got everything shifting like it should.
 
Last edited:
BroHay said:
From your picture, you have the shifting rod almost maxxed out limiting its ability to shift the trasmission.

Also, looking at the picture (2nd set) the gear shifter is inline with your foot peg, also limiting its ability to do a complete shift.

Try adjusting the shifting rod to lower the gear shift, (loosen the two locking screws on the shifting rod and rotate clock/counter-clockwise to lower the gear shift) say by 3/4-1\\" for starters below the foot peg, you should be able to get things working properly again. Might take a few times to get it back to its original state, but don't try doing any long distance rides until you get it back to your satisfaction (or carry the 10mm to be able to adjust as needed --size of nut on a Gen I)

I don't think that you need to adjust the shift arm (unless you removed it from its original factory position while performing some other work on the bike)

I offer some advice on the premise of what I encountered when I changed out my rearsets from factory to a Gilles for a Gen 1. I had a learning curve, but I eventually got everything shifting like it should.
Click to expand...

Won't hurt to give it a try. Thanks BroHay.
 
KNEEDRAGGER said:
Just remember the more you lower the shift pedal the harder it is to get your boot under it to change up especially exiting a corner cranked right over.
Click to expand...

I hadn't given thought to the final position of the shift pedal when doing twisties or even track days, b/c I'm in the process of preparing the bike for next year.

Guess I'll get to see if present position gives me any problems with the setup I have now.

Thanks,
BroHay
 
I finally got a chance to install the 16T sprocket on my 2008 bike today.

What a huge difference! It completely changes the character of the bike. It makes it much more sporty. The revs stay just a wee bit higher and the power is more easily accessible. No more chugging across the intersections. Just a bit of clutch work, and I'm off. (I'm still adjusting to the I4 engine and the need for high revs. I'm used to the old single on my DRZ650)

Seriously, if you ride on the sporty side, it is a wise change. I don't even notice the additional revs on the freeway. It is a really wise change--Yamaha should be ashamed they didn't do it in the factory!

I would try the 15T--I have one in the garage (Ebay-$8--Sunstar), but I'm not into the track-day or wheelie thing.
 
jeff8407 said:
I finally got a chance to install the 16T sprocket on my 2008 bike today.

What a huge difference! It completely changes the character of the bike. It makes it much more sporty. The revs stay just a wee bit higher and the power is more easily accessible. No more chugging across the intersections. Just a bit of clutch work, and I'm off. (I'm still adjusting to the I4 engine and the need for high revs. I'm used to the old single on my DRZ650)

Seriously, if you ride on the sporty side, it is a wise change. I don't even notice the additional revs on the freeway. It is a really wise change--Yamaha should be ashamed they didn't do it in the factory!

I would try the 15T--I have one in the garage (Ebay-$8--Sunstar), but I'm not into the track-day or wheelie thing.
Click to expand...

Completely agree. I don't have a lot of miles on my 16T, but the little riding I've done with it, and it is just as you describe.

The V4 Speedohealer sets you right up. I've got the calibration settings around here somewhere if you do that. It is really easy.

Ty
 
This has had some very good info. One of the first things I noticed on my bike when cleaning it was how rubbery the foot pegs felt. At first I actually thought they were loose then I realized they were rubber mounted. I'm definitely going to do the washer change. I've had all kinds of rides and the FZ1 has the sloppiest pegs of any I've owned. I'd rather have some peg buzz than feel the peg moving around.
 
Lonerider59 said:
This has had some very good info. One of the first things I noticed on my bike when cleaning it was how rubbery the foot pegs felt. At first I actually thought they were loose then I realized they were rubber mounted. I'm definitely going to do the washer change. I've had all kinds of rides and the FZ1 has the sloppiest pegs of any I've owned. I'd rather have some peg buzz than feel the peg moving around.
Click to expand...

It helps a lot, but does not completely eliminate all the movement. That would take a new mount design. But the washer mod is the best bang for the buck mod I've done.
 
GunInstructordotcom said:
There is a modification that might help your shifts. The footpegs are rubber mounted. When you shift, the footpeg mount flexes, and some claim that is the cause of missing first to second shifts. The flex absorbs some of the leverage.

If you replace the rubber-backed washers that are under the bolts that hold your footpeg brackets on, with stainless steel washers, it solidifies the foot pegs. (Look at post #3 on this thread for pictures of the area.) This gives you more positive shifts, and some feel it results in a more solid feel while riding. I have replaced the rubber-backed washers with stainless steel washers that I bought at Home Depot, and I no longer mis-shift first to second.

It makes the shifts more solid, because your foot is no longer fighting the flex in the mounts when you shift. (When your foot pushes up on the shift lever, the foot peg flexes down.) :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Instead of buying new washers just flip them around and you'll get a metal to metal contact. I did this when I installed my rearset set back plates on my FZ6 and it nicely firmed up the entire assembly. The FZ1 and FZ6 use the same washer.
 
Hellgate said:
Instead of buying new washers just flip them around and you'll get a metal to metal contact. I did this when I installed my rearset set back plates on my FZ6 and it nicely firmed up the entire assembly. The FZ1 and FZ6 use the same washer.
Click to expand...

Now thats an idea. When you flipped them around, did you have any issues with the rubber side against the screw itself in terms of tightening them properly? Just curious.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top