FZ1 valve adjusting

FZ1riderNY said:
I would T, but it's one of those things where I wouldn't feel comfortable doing it solo. I did adjust my scooter when it came time but that was a simple single cylinder 150cc and didn't use a bucket and shim system so making the adjustment was a breeze. This is a little more entailed and I'm not so sure I'd be confident enough doing it myself. Will you be tackling the YZF on your own?
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Yea, I'll be doing the YZF1000 at some point this Summer. I have the luxury of having two bikes so downtime is not that big a deal for me. I think over a weekend I can get it done. Maybe I'll get lucky ant they'll be within spec, but I doubt it.
 
NJFZ1 said:
Yea, I'll be doing the YZF1000 at some point this Summer. I have the luxury of having two bikes so downtime is not that big a deal for me. I think over a weekend I can get it done. Maybe I'll get lucky and they'll be within spec, but I doubt it.
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Well, when your ready, let me know so I can learn by seeing.
 
NJFZ1 said:
Sure will and now that I just picked up this little book on eBay I'm all set :D
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Nice find Tony! That will be a lifesaver for you. I love service manuals, however, since I've been using mine for the FZ1, I have found discrepancies and missed steps that have been left out. Thats why I combine the Clymer's as well to check everything twice.
 
Be aware of the error that is made in the OEM manual when it comes to checking the clearance.
On page 3-4 it states that you should turn the crankshaft counterclockwise, but this can not be done since you will only loosen the bolt holding the sprocket.

I called technical support at Yamaha (I work at a dealer) and asked them if the manual was right and they told me to ignore the manual and just check the valves when all cam lobes was pointing from each other (intake backwards and exhaust to the front.

warning 1: before you you change the shims, see to it that they can not drop down into the cylinders by plugging the spark plug holes with a rag or something.

And finally warning 2: do not over tighten the bolt holding the fastening thingy (do not know the correct name for it in English) that hold the cams down. If you do the engine will not be able to turn over.

By the way the shims are the same size as the ones used on YZ 250 F.
 
Missyl1713 said:
Wow..that's impressive! I'm not so
Sure I'm going to tackle the valve adjustment myself when it comes due, even though I've done and will do a majority of the maintenance myself. I'm a little intimidated by that task. :)
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Ive already had my cam cover off to fit the YEC AIS plug block-off kit which is the full way to do a AIS block-off. Its a big job to get into the cams. I will do my valve adjustment at home, I have the tools and skills for a total engine gob.The Kiwi way is do it yourself at home just like that guy did on the video. Most people put there bikes in for this work.:cowboy:
 
I asked about a valve service and was told around the £400 mark.I would not tackle it myself either maybe a motorbike maintenance course is in order ?
 
Valve adjusting is good. I picked up my R6 this morning and 11 were out of spec, all tight.

Tomorrow I'll taker her on a stealth ride to try out the: new spark plugs, valve adjustment, throttle body sync, new fuel thank, and new air filter. She should run perfect! Compression is still at 200/205. Not bad for an old race bike.
 
Hellgate said:
Valve adjusting is good. I picked up my R6 this morning and 11 were out of spec, all tight.

Tomorrow I'll taker her on a stealth ride to try out the: new spark plugs, valve adjustment, throttle body sync, new fuel thank, and new air filter. She should run perfect! Compression is still at 200/205. Not bad for an old race bike.
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Did you take it to a shop to have done Pete?
 
magpiemale said:
I asked about a valve service and was told around the £400 mark.I would not tackle it myself either maybe a motorbike maintenance course is in order ?
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Hi, magpiemale, Its a serious job, easy to muck it up, any douts put your bike in to your Yamaha shop. My 1979 TT500F, bought new never went to the shop, 30 years- 3 motor+1 gearbox rebuilds and mods (port and polish etc) then sold as a collectors bike for NZ$4500 (payed NZ$2900 new) when I got my FAZER.
 
275 just to check clearance, that does not include additional labor/parts if required.

I may have found a Honda dealer with more reasonable rates then what I've been getting.

I'll break it down, but when it comes to the inside of the engine, I don't have the same level of confidence.

I'll have my intro to tolerances by setting the float height for the carbs.
 
I paid $425 for the valve adjustment, shims for 11 valves, TB sync, moving my fuel pump and gas cap to a new tank (my old tanks seam began to leak), installing spark plugs (I provided them), flush the coolant and replace with coolant and water wetter.
 
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