FZ1 2014 /gen 2/ exhaust and center stand clearance issues

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johnyboy89

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I got a 2014 fz1 brand new and never touch anything on it yet.......i got a pretty good track racing background and alot of experience in alot of motorish things...... I got fz6-vfr's zx-12r road bikes.....used 1 half a season:: almost vantage 2 stroke 250 nsr (rebuilt) and one old but still good tz(h)350 ......while knowing limits of physics on motorcycle......i never thought of trespassing road bike limits with standard road tires: dunlop d221 .....

Is that a common problem for people on the track? i already saw and heard problems with clearance on bellypans / and center stands but not stock exhaust........my pegs are grinding alot but i never thought exhaust demage would occur...

Could it be a suspension adjustement?

Im no engineer nor mechanics professional......just wondering if there is something to do.....10385278_302110213300914_7260434463585064612_n.jpg
 
Center stand and exhaust are really grinded......i tried it another time just to see if maybe it was a isolated problem and it grinded again..... that particular curve got a little long down and up bump but usually bike are made to have clearance for more they can stand on regular tires!?

I know people say suspension are to soft stock wise but even in harder settings doesnt seem to change a lot....someone else saw that problem before?
 
When I had my 08' I ground the center stand down a few times on twisty mountain roads, but had already taken the stock pipe off by then, Most aftermarket pipes will increase the clearance a fair bit. I personally would never run a bike on a track with the center stand on it. I weigh about 20 lbs less than you, just for reference. The stock suspension is probably at it's limit considering your size/weight and a good place to start upgrades. You have a great local suspension manufacturer; ELKA. I put Ohlins on my bike and it was amazing afterward. If you want a great looking , much lighter and narrower exhaust, get a MIVV Suono.

Links: Stage 4 Shock Absorbers for Motorcycles | Elka Suspension

http://www.mivv.it/images/gallerie/suono/grandi/DSC_0001.jpg

Exhausts YAMAHA - FZ1 / FZ1 FAZER - SPORT - Silencers - MIVV

I had the MIVV, GP model which they still make, only in black steel only. It was a bit on the loud side but you won't have clearance issues.



 
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johnyboy89 said:
Center stand and exhaust are really grinded......i tried it another time just to see if maybe it was a isolated problem and it grinded again..... that particular curve got a little long down and up bump but usually bike are made to have clearance for more they can stand on regular tires!?

I know people say suspension are to soft stock wise but even in harder settings doesnt seem to change a lot....someone else saw that problem before?
Click to expand...

These bikes are designed around an average 150 - 170 lb rider. Being over that, there's not enough adjustment for us, so given that you like to track, suspension should be first and foremost on the list of mods. I'm 220. The stock shock is uber-crap for this weight. I called Traxxion Dynamics and had them build me a 8983 Penske with the remote reservoir and it was night and day difference. A couple clicks down and I'm in touring mode... middle of the road is commuting with some fun and a few clicks up and not a chance of bottoming out. I still need more work on the forks (translation: R1 swap!)
 
+1 on what FZ1inNH said.
At your weight of 200 lbs, you are over what the rear shock is designed for and this becomes especially true at the track. I would look at a new rear shock, preferably one with height adjustment like the Penske 8983.
My own Penske is set 5mm higher than stock to assist in turn in as recommended by Traxxion Dynamics.
Other than that, I would look at your body position, maybe you need to hang off the bike more when track riding to reduce lean angle a little?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 
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I track my Gen II regularly and ride it pretty hard. I've got an aftermarket shock on it now, but even with stock suspension, I had no problems getting a knee down without dragging anything but the pegs. I suspect you've got some serious suspension issues. Try tipping the bike over with no weight on it and seeing how far you have to lean it to get the exhaust to touch the ground. With you on the bike, that distance should only be 10-15mm less.

Alternatively, you can get a slip-on. That'd give you plenty of extra clearance.

Edit: You can also try a 190/55 tire. It'll give you better handling and raise your ride height by about a quarter of an inch.
 
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Preeminence said:
I track my Gen II regularly and ride it pretty hard. I've got an aftermarket shock on it now, but even with stock suspension, I had no problems getting a knee down without dragging anything but the pegs. I suspect you've got some serious suspension issues. Try tipping the bike over with no weight on it and seeing how far you have to lean it to get the exhaust to touch the ground. With you on the bike, that distance should only be 10-15mm less.

Alternatively, you can get a slip-on. That'd give you plenty of extra clearance.

Edit: You can also try a 190/55 tire. It'll give you better handling and raise your ride height by about a quarter of an inch.
Click to expand...

exactly what i did!!! Suspension Issues it is... with the 190 55 zr17 dunlop q3 rear.... i got a half a centimeter chicken strip and peg...centerstand and aftermarket exhaust are down to the ground. knee slider also with one ass cheek out.... tryed maximum stiffness settings and still to soft... going for a new rear suspension and front ohlins cartridge. will maybe not help with the grind but we never know.... im seriously thinking of taking that bike centerstand of... and maybe keep that bike for trackdays
 
max out the pre-load

I WEIGHED MORE THAN 200 at one point and things worked ok for me with maximum preload on the front and rear. I still ride like this at 173 lbs.

You can also lift the bike with a suspension lowering link, you simply make the link shorter instead of longer, and it will go in both directions, or you can simply cut off the all-thread portion of the link. I am talking about this type of link - https://www.ebay.com/i/332327810229?chn=ps

these links will go about 4" shorter or 2" taller, for the rear suspension of course. It does this , lowering the bike, by making the link longer, and then you raise the bike by making the link shorter.

any all-thread and heim joint ends will work, no $100+ required. an internal threaded hex rod from jegs can make it look better. I used a bunch of cheap nuts to fortify it
 
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