full syn oil versus conv. oil

psmith994 said:
wow....ok then....funny but not helpful.....i dont think....by the time i finished reading it i was a little confused......
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On a serious note, no, it's fine.

On my track bike I just removed regular Castrol, and put in full synth Castrol. I ran the snot out of it at the track for 150 miles, at 8,000 to 14,500 rpms with no issues at all.

The only recommendation I can make is buy what is on sale.
 
PapaGeno21 said:
Well I just put it in there at 2500, just hit 3102 on the clock so I am thinking of doing my next change at around 6500-6800 miles. Somewhere around 4-4500 on the Purple should be alright right?
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In the little bit of research I've done, and listening to a gp junkie from daytona royal purple is junk for the long haul. It's very good for wide open track days, but then you change it afterward. I just put amsoil 10w40 in my 02, it's amazing what good oil can do for it. The amsoil has the best corrosion and film qualities proved in independent testing. Though it may be hella expensive, I think my beast is worth it :1drink. just my 2 cents, here is a dollar though

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf
 
I use 10/40 now in my Gen11 07SV Fazer after 20/50 runing in oil to 6000km for the ceramic bore. At 11400km now got new filter&oil next few days service at home.
 
Personally I use Motul 5100 semi-synth. IMHO it is more than good enough for my bike.
The trick is to change the oil regularly, whatever brand/type you decide to use.
 
fazernoob66 said:
In the little bit of research I've done, and listening to a gp junkie from daytona royal purple is junk for the long haul. It's very good for wide open track days, but then you change it afterward. I just put amsoil 10w40 in my 02, it's amazing what good oil can do for it. The amsoil has the best corrosion and film qualities proved in independent testing. Though it may be hella expensive, I think my beast is worth it :1drink. just my 2 cents, here is a dollar though

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf
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Amsoil? I thought that was an abbreviation for American Soil??
 
fazernoob66 said:
In the little bit of research I've done, and listening to a gp junkie from daytona royal purple is junk for the long haul. It's very good for wide open track days, but then you change it afterward. I just put amsoil 10w40 in my 02, it's amazing what good oil can do for it. The amsoil has the best corrosion and film qualities proved in independent testing. Though it may be hella expensive, I think my beast is worth it :1drink. just my 2 cents, here is a dollar though

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf
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So --- I click on your link and after it finally downloads, I realize it is done by Amsoil. Do you really believe it is an independent report? Also --- corrosion? How do you think your engine is developing all this corrosion?

If you run anything besides regular oil of some sort without any friction modifiers ---YOU ARE WASTING MONEY. If you don't change your oil every 3000 miles --- YOU ARE DESTROYING YOUR ENGINE. Regardless off what you put in it.
 
Since using AMSOIL in my FZ1, my life has been changed for the better. A tad batter MPG, a tad smoother running, and shifting is smooth. Of course most any motorcycle specific synthetic will provide you these features.

It is a waste of money to use NON-synthetic oil.

Using Syn means your engine will last a bit longer, run a tad cooler, flow faster when cold.

If you're changing your oil before 3,000 miles then you are wasting money.

A good syn means you should be able to go 4,000 to 6,000 miles per change. The 3,000 mile rule is old school, dated, and is believed by those that have not kept up with technology; they ignore science, they ignore Used-Oil-Analysis, and go with emotion, tradition.
 
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I use Mobil 1 synthetic racing oil exclusively after trying other oils and hating them. It runs smoother, cooler, and shifts like silk with Mobile. I change it every 3000 regardless, just because I like it and it makes me feel better. So there. :)
 
Howard Roark said:
The 3,000 mile rule is old school, dated, and is believed by those that have not kept up with technology; they ignore science, they ignore Used-Oil-Analysis, and go with emotion, tradition.
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This is true of most dealerships be they cages or two wheels. Toyota states for us to change the oil every 5,000 miles with dino in it. The "Maint Req" light lights up every 5k miles but what do they put on the window sticker? Yes... "See ya in 3,000 miles!" I only ever went in when the light came on, meaning 5k miles. Now that I'm without a warranty, I'm switching to Mobil One and going 7500 miles like the bottle says. I'll have to keep track of that with my own sticker though because the light will be out of sync @ every 5k. I just reset my own light anyway and watch the ODO for every other change. If I do it right, the light will be correct every third time or 2nd oil change. :tup:
 
Howard Roark said:
Since using AMSOIL in my FZ1, my life has been changed for the better. A tad batter MPG, a tad smoother running, and shifting is smooth. (That is how you would sum up your life?) :)Of course most any motorcycle specific synthetic will provide you these features.

It is a waste of money to use NON-synthetic oil.

Using Syn means your engine will last a bit longer, run a tad cooler, flow faster when cold. (No --- it doesn't. Every engine is different --- it might help some -- it might hurt others.)

If you're changing your oil before 3,000 miles then you are wasting money. (TRUE)

A good syn means you should be able to go 4,000 to 6,000 miles per change. The 3,000 mile rule is old school, dated, and is believed by those that have not kept up with technology; they ignore science, they ignore Used-Oil-Analysis, and go with emotion, tradition.
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Not true. A good syn means you might have the possibility of having longer drain intervals but without oil analysis each and every time to develop the proper trend --- you will never know.
FYI -- I use to be an expert in the field of lubrication and was the National Sales Trainer for Schaeffer Oil Company - a specialized lubricant company. Because of the high RPM's of modern motorcycles there is an increasingly higher fuel dilution than in most automobiles. Fuel in oil causes wear. Increasing drain intervals can cause excessive wear unless the oil is monitored each time with analysis. That is a fact regardless of which oil you are running.

Top a large degree the additive packages that are blended into the oil are what determine the outcome of the life of the engine. These additives are what gives the oil the properties that allow it to run longer in a normal environment. Most after market blenders like Amsoil, Schaeffer, RP and others use packages from a variety of suppliers that are not all the same and don't cost the same.

Most major brands of oil will last 3000 miles without a problem. This is why I suggest the 3000 miles drain interval. After that you are on a turkey shoot with your engine.

I have no desire to get super detailed about this but I do feel that I owe the forums that I'm involved with the proper story about your oil. I have nothing to gain and therefore no reason to take sides with anyone.
 
FZ1inNH said:
This is true of most dealerships be they cages or two wheels. Toyota states for us to change the oil every 5,000 miles with dino in it. The "Maint Req" light lights up every 5k miles but what do they put on the window sticker? Yes... "See ya in 3,000 miles!" I only ever went in when the light came on, meaning 5k miles. Now that I'm without a warranty, I'm switching to Mobil One and going 7500 miles like the bottle says. I'll have to keep track of that with my own sticker though because the light will be out of sync @ every 5k. I just reset my own light anyway and watch the ODO for every other change. If I do it right, the light will be correct every third time or 2nd oil change. :tup:
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I would recommend you go with Mobil 1 and change every 5000 miles. I did this for awhile in my Van (which I bought to haul my bikes around) but decided to switch to Rotella T and change every 3000 miles.
 
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