Fixed clunky transmission shifts

Doogie2.0

Doogie2.0

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Ever since I got my bike, every time I changed gears up or down the shift was really clunky. I thought that this is just how the bike was. Well today I decided to take the shifting linkage off to polish the connected cover. So when re-installing everything I thought the long rod should be at a right angle to the lever connected to the transmission output shaft. Thinking it would fully ingage and dissengage the gears20231105_210359.jpg in that position. When I took the bike for a ride I could not believe how smooth the transmission shifted. Huge difference. I've posted a picture of the linkage incase anyone wants to look. If your transmission is clunky try this
 
Thanks for the tip! I had mine off about a year ago when I had to replace the rearset, but never really thought about it's position. Will check it out later today...
 
Thanks for sharing. Glad it's making a difference for you. Simple enough solution to try, if that's a problem.

I'm sure over the years mine's been put back one tooth forward or backward, never really noticed a difference. I have a shorter R1 shift link on one of my Gen 1s and it's really not that noticeable as far as shifting ease (positivity). I realize ease and clunking are two different issues.

Moving one direction in shift shaft rotation should make upshifting more positive, while going in the other should make down shifting more positive. Right in the middle is probably where we should all be. From a geometry point of view 90 degree orientation to the rear set linkage should result in least amount of effort for your toe.

Oil change is the change I most associate with owners claiming smoother shifts. I've run 100s of thousands of miles on Mobil 1 15-50 and Rotella and haven't noticed anything different between those brands. Bottom line I guess is my two Gen 1s have never been clunky.

New chain and sprockets are always noticeable. Excess chain slop makes for an initial clunk.
 
Isleoman said:
Oil change is the change I most associate with owners claiming smoother shifts.
Click to expand...

Same here! I can almost always tell a difference with fresh oil.

Checked my linkage and it's where it should be. The only issue I've noticed with this bike is that it will frequently hit "N" when cold and shifting 1-2. Otherwise, she's a-real smooth.
 
Another element is the clutch lever. On the '03 I acquired last fall, I noticed the shifting was clunky and not what I was used to on Gen 1's.
So with all new to me bikes, I changed to oil / filter ( and other fluids ) and did notice the linkage was really forward, so adjusted it. But not much of any difference. Then noticed the P/O had cheap ebay/amazon clutch and brake levers on it.
Adjusted the clutch lever free play and saw the clutch lever was not moving in a complete range of motion. I had stock levers in the shop, so threw out that cheap shorty crap and put on the stock levers with readjustment to the clutch cable.
Problem solved with the OE clutch lever.
 
Isleoman said:
Thanks for sharing. Glad it's making a difference for you. Simple enough solution to try, if that's a problem.

I'm sure over the years mine's been put back one tooth forward or backward, never really noticed a difference. I have a shorter R1 shift link on one of my Gen 1s and it's really not that noticeable as far as shifting ease (positivity). I realize ease and clunking are two different issues.

Moving one direction in shift shaft rotation should make upshifting more positive, while going in the other should make down shifting more positive. Right in the middle is probably where we should all be. From a geometry point of view 90 degree orientation to the rear set linkage should result in least amount of effort for your toe.

Oil change is the change I most associate with owners claiming smoother shifts. I've run 100s of thousands of miles on Mobil 1 15-50 and Rotella and haven't noticed anything different between those brands. Bottom line I guess is my two Gen 1s have never been clunky.

New chain and sprockets are always noticeable. Excess chain slop makes for an initial clunk.
Click to expand...
I use Mobil one synthetic and love it. First time I used it, I actually noticed less vibes on the handlebars.
 
Eff-Zed-1 said:
Another element is the clutch lever. On the '03 I acquired last fall, I noticed the shifting was clunky and not what I was used to on Gen 1's.
So with all new to me bikes, I changed to oil / filter ( and other fluids ) and did notice the linkage was really forward, so adjusted it. But not much of any difference. Then noticed the P/O had cheap ebay/amazon clutch and brake levers on it.
Adjusted the clutch lever free play and saw the clutch lever was not moving in a complete range of motion. I had stock levers in the shop, so threw out that cheap shorty crap and put on the stock levers with readjustment to the clutch cable.
Problem solved with the OE clutch lever.
Click to expand...
I originally thought that was my problem, glad yours is fixed!
 
Doogie2.0 said:
Hey Doc, I see you and Jwarden use the shell Rotella. I want to try it. So on the jug it says she'll Rotella T6 10w40. Is that all I need to know to get the right oil. Thank!
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Yes, there is a designation (JASO, I think) somewhere on the jug but the T6 is all you really need to know. 👍
 
Guess I'll be the odd one out and not a fan of Rotella, but read on if you care to.
From my experience with Rotella, shifting was harder, clunky-er and took more effort, even when new... on 3 different bikes.
And not just a Yamaha or FZ1 thing as a Honda was involved.

My current '13 FJR has Mobil 1 10w40 High Mileage and has for about 40k miles ( bike has over 102k on it). I know that particular oil does not carry the magic JASO cert, but also isn't an "energy conserving" oil, So none of the bad stuff in it, IMO. Before that, I used Yamalube syth oil, but when pricing got hard to accept and then 2 dealers decided not to stock it, I switched to the Mobil 1 High Mileage at suggestion of a Ducati friend, of all people. I've used it in the FJR and in my current 2003 FZ1. Shifting is smooth and requires little effort for both bikes. Do notice downshifts are getting a bit rougher on the FJR, so in my brain, time for an oil and filter change. About 6000 on this oil and filter run.

Before my 2013, I had a '07 FJR and that previous owner was a Rotella junkie and gave me a jug of T6 oil and filter when I drove to pick it up. From test ride to the few miles before I changed the oil and filter, shifting was clunky in all gears, up and down, and took quite a bit of foot effort. Just felt "rough" in all gears. Knew that was odd as oil was brand new. All that went away when I changed to Mobil 1 4T 2 weeks later. Used 4T in it until it sold several years back.

Bought 2001 FZ-1, again several years ago, and that P/O also changed oil and filter right before I picked it up, with T5. Same thing, did not shift like it "should". 1st was a grind / thunk and the other gears were hard shifting and thunked during up and downshifts. Clutch plates measured good and clutch cable was spot on adjusted. Couple weeks later swapped with Yamalube and all was smooth and almost effortless.

Almost done, y'all. Just before the FZ1, I bought a 2004 VFR800 and dude threw in filter and T6 10/40. Got home, changed oil and filter, and shifting was junk. Like "this is not a VFR" type of bad shifting. The new T6 oil shifted worse than the black oil just drained out of it. Ran out to O"Reilly and got Valvoline blend 10/40. Dropped the T5 out and refilled with Valvoline and shifting was "snick snick snick"... silky smooth like a VFR.

So that is why I personally can't get into the Rotella brand. Different bikes and brand new Rotella oil, with noticeable shifting issues. All that were resolved by switching to other brands of oil.

Of course you results may ( and most likely will ) vary, but again, just my experience with Rotella.

Now back to your scheduled "not another oil thread". LOL
 
Eff-Zed-1 said:
Guess I'll be the odd one out and not a fan of Rotella, but read on if you care to.

Now back to your scheduled "not another oil thread". LOL
Click to expand...
I'm no "Rotella absolutist" and I enjoy hearing of other's experience! I will note that I used it in my F4i but, as you noted, it shifted better with the Honda brand oil I bought one time. Not enough of a difference to make me pay the difference, but it was there. I'd still hang out with you... unless you're a Pepsi drinker... then we'd have real problems! 😆
 
Doc Samson said:
I'm no "Rotella absolutist" and I enjoy hearing of other's experience! I will note that I used it in my F4i but, as you noted, it shifted better with the Honda brand oil I bought one time. Not enough of a difference to make me pay the difference, but it was there. I'd still hang out with you... unless you're a Pepsi drinker... then we'd have real problems! 😆
Click to expand...

Not had a soda since Thanksgiving 2003, so I guess we can be pals. :cool:.
 
Gone through gallons and gallons and gallons of Rotella T6 and regular Mobil 1 15/50. Never noticed a big difference in shifting on two Gen 1s. What makes more difference to shifting on my bikes is chain tension, especially into first. 15/50 seems to last longer on high mileage motors. Could be higher viscosity. 15/50 comes with 5 qts vs 4 for the Rotella, which is part of the price difference.
 
Eff-Zed-1 said:
Guess I'll be the odd one out and not a fan of Rotella, but read on if you care to.
From my experience with Rotella, shifting was harder, clunky-er and took more effort, even when new... on 3 different bikes.
And not just a Yamaha or FZ1 thing as a Honda was involved.

My current '13 FJR has Mobil 1 10w40 High Mileage and has for about 40k miles ( bike has over 102k on it). I know that particular oil does not carry the magic JASO cert, but also isn't an "energy conserving" oil, So none of the bad stuff in it, IMO. Before that, I used Yamalube syth oil, but when pricing got hard to accept and then 2 dealers decided not to stock it, I switched to the Mobil 1 High Mileage at suggestion of a Ducati friend, of all people. I've used it in the FJR and in my current 2003 FZ1. Shifting is smooth and requires little effort for both bikes. Do notice downshifts are getting a bit rougher on the FJR, so in my brain, time for an oil and filter change. About 6000 on this oil and filter run.

Before my 2013, I had a '07 FJR and that previous owner was a Rotella junkie and gave me a jug of T6 oil and filter when I drove to pick it up. From test ride to the few miles before I changed the oil and filter, shifting was clunky in all gears, up and down, and took quite a bit of foot effort. Just felt "rough" in all gears. Knew that was odd as oil was brand new. All that went away when I changed to Mobil 1 4T 2 weeks later. Used 4T in it until it sold several years back.

Bought 2001 FZ-1, again several years ago, and that P/O also changed oil and filter right before I picked it up, with T5. Same thing, did not shift like it "should". 1st was a grind / thunk and the other gears were hard shifting and thunked during up and downshifts. Clutch plates measured good and clutch cable was spot on adjusted. Couple weeks later swapped with Yamalube and all was smooth and almost effortless.

Almost done, y'all. Just before the FZ1, I bought a 2004 VFR800 and dude threw in filter and T6 10/40. Got home, changed oil and filter, and shifting was junk. Like "this is not a VFR" type of bad shifting. The new T6 oil shifted worse than the black oil just drained out of it. Ran out to O"Reilly and got Valvoline blend 10/40. Dropped the T5 out and refilled with Valvoline and shifting was "snick snick snick"... silky smooth like a VFR.

So that is why I personally can't get into the Rotella brand. Different bikes and brand new Rotella oil, with noticeable shifting issues. All that were resolved by switching to other brands of oil.

Of course you results may ( and most likely will ) vary, but again, just my experience with Rotella.

Now back to your scheduled "not another oil thread". LOL
Click to expand...
Yeah, my last oil change was mobile 1 and I actually noticed a reduction in vibes on the handlebars. Guess I'll just have to stick with it and pay the $50, thanks guy
 
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