Custom "Meter bracket" or "Meter stay"

EISTO

EISTO

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I've bought an aftermarket 7" round headlight as part of my naked-conversion but need a way to fix the meter console. No point in buying the original naked "Meter stay" since I'm not using the original naked headlight, so I'm looking for something simple that simply attaches the meter console firmly to the handlebar. Suggestions would be appreciated!

/E
 
I had the same situation so I went to Home Depot and bought a galvanized strip from the fencing section and made it work. I wish I had a pic right now but I may post it up later.
 
I bought a small piece of aluminum bar 1 1/4" wide and drilled a few holes in it and bent them on a metal break at about 35° when I get home to my computer I could send u a pic, I bought the meter cover for 9$ online to protect the back side. Two metal strips is all you need
 
Update on GenII meter cluster bracket project

Thought I'd give you an update on this. Finally ended up making a meter cluster bracket design for GenII myself. The bracket is attached using the two M6x12 screws holding the cable guides on each side of the front. You should replace these screws with some slightly longer ones, for example M6x17mm
I'm afraid the whole project may seem a bit complicated but it's perfectly doable for an amateur if you like tinkering with mechanical stuff and have access to the following tools:

-Vice
-Angle grinder or table-mounted grinder
-Jigsaw (with blade for sheet metal)
-Drill press

Use some regular 2mm sheet metal (not stainless) and simply print out the attached drawing and glue it to the metal itself. To get the scale right, use a ruler and measure the scale in the drawing. When the length corresponds to the length written on the scale, you're good. You will of course have to make sure that the aspect ratio of the picture isn't changed. To be on the safe side, you could do a trial run with some thick cardboard instead of sheet metal just to check that everything fits your bike.
It's a good idea to put some transparent plastic on top of the drawing to protect it from dirt while you're working.

1) Use a jigsaw with sheet metal blade to make a first coarse contour cut around the drawing. Adjust with some afficionado work using an angle grinder or table mounted grinder.

2) Use a drill press to drill the holes. Holes for the rubber dampers holding the meter are 13.5mm while the two holes for attaching the plate at the bike end are 7mm.

3) The hardest part; bending the bracket at the right places. The "up's" and "down's" on the drawing indicate bending relative to the area of the bracket marked with "Reference for bending".
The uppermost one of the tree holes where the meter is fixed to the bracket is located 5mm out of plane with the two others so you will have to "elevate" this part of the bracket. This is achieved by bending it slightly in positions 1 and 2 on the drawing. Then continue to bend at position 3 to get the right viewing angle for the meter. This can of course be customised to your needs.
Finally, lower the fixture points ever so slightly by bending it in positions 4 and 5. The large semi-circle of the bracket will now rest smugly on the ignition switch.


Believe it or not, but the whole process from sheet metal to finished bracket takes only a few hours once you get your eye in.

Please note that the cable guards will not fit after the bracket is installed, but they can easily be modified to fit with the bracket in place. Personally, I simply removed them and used plastic strips to arrange the cables since I've added some additional cables for heated grips etc anyway. Looks much neater.

Btw, the meter cover (Y-2D1-83559-00-00) will fit the bracket.



Einar
 
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