Cobra Fi2000R Fuel Processor

Normally this device is sold for use on Crusier type bikes and some others. I have one on my Yamaha 1300 Tourer. It is an inexpensive and easy to change device to manage your fuel system. Here are the directions from the 1300 Tourer website on how to set the pots to try to optimize your bike.

Cobra FI2000
The Cobra unit is commonly used today and allows one to adjust 3 different pots (see the description below as to what each pot controls). The factory setting is 1-3-1, and some will find that to work well, "based upon which mods are on their bikes.

The standard type of Cobra Fi2000 models:
Open loop - In this case the unit is installed inline but the O2 sensor is disconnected
If you have emissions tests in your state, it could fail.
Here's a YouTube video of the open loop being installed on a V-Star 1300. It's pretty simple!
Closed loop - In this case the unit is installed inline without any other changes required
The majority (but not all) riders using one of these two Cobra Fi2000's are using this model

(Added, thanks to MaiKai) Discussing for a moment only these two Cobra CLOSED loop and OPEN loop controllers, as mentioned above, the CLOSED loop is what the big majority of 1300 owners have with features that benefit the bike very well. The known advantages of using the CLOSED loop controller are three-fold: 1. One's bike will continue to benefit from utilizing the O2 Sensor; 2. Even as a CLOSE loop fuel controller you can adjust the 1st (green) pot if and as needed, done so mostly to reduce the amount of popping coming from the exhaust which is heard during deceleration. Rarely when using an aftermarket exhaust will the popping/gurgling be completely eliminated, and that is perfectly fine and to be expected; 3. In an extreme situation, one can disconnect the O2 Sensor (generally should NOT be necessary) and use the unit as an OPEN loop controller, whereas the OPEN loop controller can be used only in an OPEN loop configuration. In that rare case when the OPEN loop is desired in order to increase even more the fuel flow from the point of 'start-up' to low to mid RPM riding, it would then also be a must for anyone who had previously installed Jack's O2 Mod to remove it because it cannot be used without also using the O2 Sensor. Overall, the advantages weigh "heavily" in favor of using the CLOSED loop fuel controller the big majority of the time.

Description of the pots:
GREEN LED POT (left pot) – With the Closed Loop function of this module you do not need to adjust this setting, leave it at 1.0. Without a closed loop system this adjustment would affect idle and cruise fuel. If you had cruising issues, this is where you would try a different setting. Generally, surging and uneven running while cruising is a lean fuel condition, so adding a small increase in fuel by turning this adjustment clockwise with a small flat blade screwdriver a 1/2 of a position would help. The bike would need to be Test-driven to feel an improvement and only the setting would need to be increased until the surge went away. Also, backfiring or popping on trailing throttle is generally a lean symptom (or an exhaust gasket leak). The same small increases as above would be tried just until the backfiring would disappear.
YELLOW LED POT (middle pot) - this adjustment affects acceleration and power fuel. If you have a hesitation or bogging on acceleration, this is where you would try a different setting. Aftermarket air cleaner assemblies generally lean out fuel mixtures, so try small clockwise increases until a smooth acceleration returns. Starting with the base setting, test ride the motorcycle in 4th or 5th gear and perform moderately fast roll-on throttle from a repeating standard R.P.M. or speed. Increase the pot one position at a time and stop as soon as you don’t feel any improvement.
RED LED POT (right pot) - the right hand or red pot is for the fuel setting required when the engine is maximizing its R.P.M. and power delivery. This pot is similar to the main jet in a carburetor. It will take a combination of a minimum R.P.M. and a predetermined amount of engine load to initiate this fuel. The straightaway on a racetrack or an inertia dyno are the best places to set this pot. Full exhaust systems of high quality construction increase flow characteristics and will increase fuel demands over our base settings. Also, air filters specifically designed for higher than stock airflow can create need for higher fuel setting. Try an additional one-position pot setting at a time.
 
This really helped smooth out the low rpm surging I was getting on my 1300 Tourer.

Also:
- When making changes - always go beyond the point you want to stop at on the pot and then come back to it.
- After making any changes to the pots - disconnect the battery connection for about 5 minutes to reset the ECU in the bike each time. This will let it learn and work with the Cobra and not fight it.
- Only change one pot at a time and make the changes small. Test ride the bike after each change to see if it is better or worse or no change. Stop increasing a pot when there is no change to not waste fuel, run to rich and foul your plugs.


Hope this helps. Give it a try. It's free since it came with the bike.
 
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