Clutch Slip

Gunny

Well-Known Member
Well thats bike just approaching 9000 miles now.
And every one of them done by me

Just the last while,every time i give it the gas,the clutch slips like mad.
Now i`ve had this one bikes before but only if they had wrong and bad oil in them,ie car oil while make the clutch slip as it has anti friction additives in it.

My bike gets the oil changed at the start of every bike season and always with a good quality oil and filter,anyone else had any clutch slipping problems?
 
I have also had clutch slip. Toward the end of last season 200 miles after a fresh oil change, I began to have slip when popping the clutch.
I am going to try and re-adjust the cable and drain out that oil and put some high quality stuff in to hopefully stop the issues.
I am at 9500 miles and i spent most of last season on one wheel, so I wouldn't be terrible surprised if I had to replace the plates.

The oil I used was:
Castrol - ACT-EVO X-TRA 4T Engine Oil 10W40

also put in a K&N filter(for the first time--used yamaha oem filters in the past)
 
I have also had clutch slip. Toward the end of last season 200 miles after a fresh oil change, I began to have slip when popping the clutch.
I am going to try and re-adjust the cable and drain out that oil and put some high quality stuff in to hopefully stop the issues.
I am at 9500 miles and i spent most of last season on one wheel, so I wouldn't be terrible surprised if I had to replace the plates.

The oil I used was:
Castrol - ACT-EVO X-TRA 4T Engine Oil 10W40

also put in a K&N filter(for the first time--used yamaha oem filters in the past)

Definitely not oil in your case, as that one is motorcycle specific (meaning safe for wet clutches).
 
27k here on original clutch. No slipping. Can you tell us exactly which oil you're using?

I`d have to find that off the can which i think i still have,have adjusted the cable out as there was no slack at all.
What a bastard of a fiddly job that is,can only get like a tenth of a turn on the adjuster at a time.

After this it seemed better but as it got warmed up,it seems to slip at about 9000 revs now in 3rd gear first and second seemed ok.

I`ve got a fucked shoulder just now so can`t really get out on it
Heres a wee pic of how its looking just now.
 
I'd bet your clutch is adjusted wrong. I had the same issue and it was an adjustment issue. I thought because of the way I ride it was going bad. It's fine. Loosen your cable a bit, I'm pretty sure the spec calls for some slop in the lever. I had to add more...
 
I'd bet your clutch is adjusted wrong. I had the same issue and it was an adjustment issue. I thought because of the way I ride it was going bad. It's fine. Loosen your cable a bit, I'm pretty sure the spec calls for some slop in the lever. I had to add more...

Im going to try that come spring. I ride like a banshee on it so I was expecting a clutch replacement but at under 10k miles, it should be simply an adjustment.
 
I`d have to find that off the can which i think i still have,have adjusted the cable out as there was no slack at all.
What a bastard of a fiddly job that is,can only get like a tenth of a turn on the adjuster at a time.

After this it seemed better but as it got warmed up,it seems to slip at about 9000 revs now in 3rd gear first and second seemed ok.

I`ve got a fucked shoulder just now so can`t really get out on it
Heres a wee pic of how its looking just now.

Ah the slack!! The easy way to get a lot of turns in in one shot is to squeeze the stopper (the spring-clip thing) with one hand and turn the adjuster with the other. You should have enough slack at the lever, so that you can easily place a nice sized coin between the lever and the perch, without affecting the clutch slave lever. Be sure to check it in all handlebar positions too. Some spots will be tighter than others. You want to make sure that at the tightest spot, there is still slack.

Hope that made sense.
 
I meant the slack on the cable,the lever adjustment was screwed right in but the cable was still tight,had to lift the tank and adjust the cable adjuster under there,thats where you can only get small turns as the cable is hard against the inside of the frame.
 
There should be no reason to adjust under the seat your bar is adjusted properly. Sounds to me like you need to loosen up everything a bit. I'd bet with it all so tight it's keeping your clutch pulled a bit and that's where your slip is coming from.
 
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