Clutch problems???

SJFZ1 said:
I just bought a still in crate '09 4 days ago and started having the EXACT same problem after the 1st oil change at 50 miles. So did a G**gle search and found this thread. I also used Delvac 1300 15W/40 dino oil.

Just changed oil again today to the Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W/40 (exact same stuff as Delvac 1) at 565 miles. After working the new oil into the plates by slipping it a bit at take-off and at speed the problem is GONE. Clutch engages/disengages perfectly and it now downshifts like butter.

I don't think this issue is purely viscosity as the manual states that a 20W/50 may be used above 50F as it is here right now. It seems that the friction characteristics of the Diesel dino oils may no longer be compatible with the plate material used in the FZ clutch. I used the Delvac 1300 in my FJR at the 1st change as well and never had an issue. I think the diesel oils have been re-formulated to deal with the low sulfur fuels and those new additives may be causing the sticking.

IMO stick with pure moto-oils if using dino in the FZ.
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Going throught the gears at 12K fixed mine. Just make sure you have enough room! Oh and keep your head down.
 
I'm experiencing the same problem as the OP and SJFZ1. The problem is somewhat obfuscated because I changed my oil (Mobil1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40) at the same time that I installed new (FDB) levers, so I was messing with the clutch free play anyway.

Based on what I've read here I believe the clutch plates are just temporarily stuck, especially because I neglected to take the bike for a spin after the oil change. They probably get pretty dry and sticky that way. It sounds like the solution is to just take a hot lap and get the clutch to slip a little bit, which just so happens to be one of my favorite things to do. I'll give it a shot tomorrow morning and report back my results.
 
Just an update on my clutch issues.

I ended up taking my bike into a dealer to get the clutch inspected. After a great deal of arm twisting---both with them and Yamaha corporate---they agreed to replace the clutch under warranty. My mistake was bringing it in with aftermarket levers, and aftermarket filter, and aftermarket oil. They argued against logic that these changes were the source of my problem. The tech even claimed I was risking peril by using a copper crush washer instead of the OEM aluminum. This was Long Beach Motorsports, by the way.

So anyway, they replaced all the clutch plates and did an oil change. The problem seemed to be fixed, but about 1000 miles later the clutch started sticking again. This time, I just tried harder to exercise the clutch---i.e. accelerating more aggressively, practicing my clutch-up wheelies, etc. And within another 1000 miles the problem was gone. The theory is, these clutches have to be broken in properly before they perform properly. I changed to back to synthetic (Shell Rotella T6) and a Pure One filter and it's been great since. The synthetic shifts much more smoothly.

So my recommendation to anyone with a sticky clutch is to try just riding it like you stole it for a little while---see if it works for you, too. Just don't be surprised when your gas mileage plummets.
 
So what you're saying is that if I ride like a bat out of hell and do clutch up wheelies, I'll never have clutch problems?

I'm showing this thread to my wife ASAP.
 
UAV online and FZ1-Forum.com are not responsible for any injuries, traffic tickets, worn out clutches, or angry spouses resulting from your application of this advice.

But to answer your question, yes.
 
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UAV online said:
Just an update on my clutch issues.

I ended up taking my bike into a dealer to get the clutch inspected. After a great deal of arm twisting---both with them and Yamaha corporate---they agreed to replace the clutch under warranty. My mistake was bringing it in with aftermarket levers, and aftermarket filter, and aftermarket oil. They argued against logic that these changes were the source of my problem. The tech even claimed I was risking peril by using a copper crush washer instead of the OEM aluminum. This was Long Beach Motorsports, by the way.

So anyway, they replaced all the clutch plates and did an oil change. The problem seemed to be fixed, but about 1000 miles later the clutch started sticking again. This time, I just tried harder to exercise the clutch---i.e. accelerating more aggressively, practicing my clutch-up wheelies, etc. And within another 1000 miles the problem was gone. The theory is, these clutches have to be broken in properly before they perform properly. I changed to back to synthetic (Shell Rotella T6) and a Pure One filter and it's been great since. The synthetic shifts much more smoothly.

So my recommendation to anyone with a sticky clutch is to try just riding it like you stole it for a little while---see if it works for you, too. Just don't be surprised when your gas mileage plummets.
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Lol! I bought mine at Long Beach Motorsports. Luckily for me I bought a gallon of The Maxima 10w40 blend. So if that happened to me I would laugh at them and say, "well you sold it to me it was on your oil shelf here is the receipt genious."

I find this kind of interesting listed straight from the 09 manual about oil.

"In order to prevent clutch slippage (since the engine oil also lubricates the clutch) do not mix any chemical additives. Do not use oils with a diesel spec of CD or oils of higher quality than specified. In addition do not use oils labeled energy conserving II or higher."
 
Nice. I bought my last bike (09 Kawi Versys) at Long Beach Motorsports. They gave me a great deal on that bike and my trade-in (07 Suzuki Burgman 400). When I was shopping for the FZ1, I gave them the opportunity to match or beat the deal I had worked out with Chaparral Motorsports in San Bernardino. They wouldn't even come close. Tried to offer me a discount on accessories and an extended warranty instead. "Thanks, but no thanks." Drove out to San Berdoo the next day.

So then when I bring it in for service they give me a hard time about the Chaparral Motorsports license plate frame, and all I can do is shake my head.

...

Re: engine oil, a wet clutch certainly has special needs. Some would argue that you need an oil with a picture of a motorcycle on it. But from what I've gathered, the oils on the shelf (whether in a motorcycle shop, auto parts store, or warehouse store) are pretty much the same stuff. Viscosity is what really matters. You should check to make sure it's not labeled "Energy Conserving", yes. And I prefer oils which have passed the JASO-MA tests for wet clutch compatibility. Some oils use friction modifiers which can cause clutch slippage, but presumably the JASO-MA labeled oils (e.g. Rotella T6) are OK.

What was annoying about the back and forth with the tech and the Yamaha corporate office was their backwards logic. They claimed that the non-OEM oil and/or a lack of free play in my clutch cable were causing the clutch to stick. In reality, if the oil was too slippery for a wet clutch, or if the clutch cable was too tight and preventing the clutch from fully engaging when the lever was released, I would have experienced the opposite problem... the clutch would slip too much.

Anyway, lesson learned. Don't make a warranty claim with aftermarket parts installed.
 
UAV online said:
Nice. I bought my last bike (09 Kawi Versys) at Long Beach Motorsports. They gave me a great deal on that bike and my trade-in (07 Suzuki Burgman 400). When I was shopping for the FZ1, I gave them the opportunity to match or beat the deal I had worked out with Chaparral Motorsports in San Bernardino. They wouldn't even come close. Tried to offer me a discount on accessories and an extended warranty instead. "Thanks, but no thanks." Drove out to San Berdoo the next day.

So then when I bring it in for service they give me a hard time about the Chaparral Motorsports license plate frame, and all I can do is shake my head.

...

Re: engine oil, a wet clutch certainly has special needs. Some would argue that you need an oil with a picture of a motorcycle on it. But from what I've gathered, the oils on the shelf (whether in a motorcycle shop, auto parts store, or warehouse store) are pretty much the same stuff. Viscosity is what really matters. You should check to make sure it's not labeled "Energy Conserving", yes. And I prefer oils which have passed the JASO-MA tests for wet clutch compatibility. Some oils use friction modifiers which can cause clutch slippage, but presumably the JASO-MA labeled oils (e.g. Rotella T6) are OK.

What was annoying about the back and forth with the tech and the Yamaha corporate office was their backwards logic. They claimed that the non-OEM oil and/or a lack of free play in my clutch cable were causing the clutch to stick. In reality, if the oil was too slippery for a wet clutch, or if the clutch cable was too tight and preventing the clutch from fully engaging when the lever was released, I would have experienced the opposite problem... the clutch would slip too much.

Anyway, lesson learned. Don't make a warranty claim with aftermarket parts installed.
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Yeah I totally get what your saying and its good info to know about them. Deal was opposite for me they made a great deal for the FZ1. Anyhow the Maxima 10w40 blend is an SG rated oil with an MA classification. So thats why I would laugh at them and I bought it off their shelf.

From what I know from SG rated oils the motorcycle formulations are still using it because the base oil has high concentrations of zinc and phosphorus. Its been obsolete in the automotive industry since 1993 for what they claim as cat failures. ( i say b.s.) i think engines where lasting longer with these oil formulations. The diesel rated oils still contain the high concentration the bike needs. Bikes need an oil that can take the abuse. SG rated oils have to have at least 1,000 ppm of zinc and phosphorus. Thats why that base oil is still used by motorcycle oil makers. And it says in the manual to use an SG rated oil with MA spec but if i where in a pinch i would not second guess the Rotella synthetic.
 
Very interesting. I had never heard that about the SG rated oils.

Hey, you're in Lakewood? We should go for a ride sometime. You busy tomorrow morning?
 
old rice said:
It seems to me that 20/50 is mighty thick oil. Thats what my dealer suggests also. It's what I have been hearing for years. All of my bikes have run better with lighter base viscosity oil. I see that Mobile 1 has a 0/40 synthetic without friction modifiers out now. Imagine how much better lubrication would be at start up with 0 base viscosity and full synthetic. I would venture that the engine would run cooler with better oil flow, better fuel milage, much less wear on start up, easier starts.........better clutch operation. Even on a 100 deg day that 1st start is still a cold engine.
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Mobil1's 0W/40 fully synthetic oil is the one called New life? Isn't it for cars only? would it cause any problems if I'd use that particular oil on my bike instead of a 4T marked one, designed for 4 stroke bike engines?
 
RE aftermarket oil....there is a Fed law...Magnuson-Moss act of 1975 that prohibits the denial of warranty for use other product than the manufacturers....may be found on Amsoils website.... F A Q....warranty
 
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