• Welcome to the Yamaha FZ1 Forums. Member registration disables ads and allows you to post and share. Register Here.

Brazing?

Hellgate

Wizard
Joined
Aug 3, 2008
Messages
5,156
Location
Austin, Texas
Visit site
Anyone done any brazing? I need to braze the holes on the fork damper for the Gold Valve kit. How hard is it? Or could I even JB Weld the holes closed? They're about 3/32" or so.

Thanks!
 
That's a tuff one. Is the valve made of Bronze? If so, I believe you can just "scotchbrite" the surface and heat with a small torch and fill with regular flux core solder. You just have to coat the hole with Flux first to promote adheresion.
 
Pete, I know J-B Weld is tough stuff, but I don't know about it's use in this instance. Brazing those holes shut with a bronze rod and a torch is a piece of cake...well if you have the proper equipment. I would take it to a shop and have it done. It will take two minutes...
 
Right now trying to knock the inner damping rod out is kicking my butt. The RZ has a unique design.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
 
What is around the holes? Brazing requires almost as much heat as welding. Jb weld is ok as a filler doesn't hold pressure well.
You could try that rapid fix...
 
What are the valves made from? My guess is aluminium with an anodized layer, that would make welding difficult and brazing kind of impossible :)

Can you tap the holes and insert a threaded stift in there? with some hard loctite maybe... this would be my NO1 choice

If the valve is made of some bronze alloy then brazing would be easy, though you need to clean the part very well and use the right brazing flux and filler

please forget about JBweld
 
The thing about JB Weld is that it is, after all, just glue. If you don't get your surfaces extremely clean - as in no traces of fluid left ... then the chemical gluing might be compromised - not be very solid. And if the "glued to"surfaces are smooth - there is not much for the glue to "take" to (to adhere to - as in roughened surfaces with grippy "teeth". ---- Could separate over time, vibration, and heat/cold cycles --- which your bike can supply in great quantities.
A metal to metal "burned-on" bond would seem more permanent.
 
The damper itself is steel. I wasn't able to get the inner part of the damper out last night. I'm off to Sears to find a different drift or punch. I'm also going to get a set of "soft jaws" for my vise.

Looks like I need to find a welding shop.

Thanks!
 
I agree with the no-JBWeld answers. The forces involved with the fluid dynamics might pop out your weld and cause a huge headache in repairs.

Getting it welded properly will give you peace of mind. :D If only I were there... It's not hard to do... a propane torch and a bronze rod... just make sure the surfaces are very clean. Pete, if you have a torch, you should practice on some scrap metal... heat the metal to the point the bronze melts when you touch the rod to it. It's a lot like soldering.
 
Cool Eric. That I can do. The problem is I have zero time during the week to run parts.

The soda blaster worked well, but I went through 6 pounds in a few minutes.

Wheel bearings are out.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
 
Back
Top