Brake light not working

J

jdspack

New Member
Visit site
I'm new to the forum - Just bought an 01 FZ1 in November. LOVE IT! I have problem though. I installed a sportbikelites fender eliminator kit tonight and now my brake light wont work when I hit the front brake. Works fine with the rear brakes.

I disconnected the LED's and left just the brake light connected, still not working. I'm guessing it's a ground problem but can't find one anywhere.

Anyone have any ideas? Thanks for you help!
 
not familiar with that particular kit....

Did ya have to break apart the connection to tap in (if so, maybe pulled a wire loose in there)

What type of connection did you use to make the connection (bullet/splice connector/etc)

possible that you may of tugged on the connections to the LED causing something to happen there?

just a few things to kick out there, I'm still learning about electrical so I'm no expert....

Welcome to the forum!

Adam
 
Yeah, I checked all that. I used a splice, soldered everything. I'm pretty anal about that kind of thing.

I disconnected everything and went back to just the brake light being connected - still doesn't work. I'm guessing I shorted something. Is it possible to do damage to a circuit and cause this or could it be a short? something else? it can't be that hard....fairly simple wiring. UGH!!!
 
check the fuse?

did you recently have the front brake control off and if so, disconnect/reconnect the control wires backwards, or at all (two small 90 degree clips)?

put the stocker back in place and see if the issue is still present (maybe bad unit)?
 
Last edited:
I'll check the fuse, didn't look at that. Would the running light and rear brake light work if that were it?

The stock light is still there, the mod is just a bolt on with new LED turn signals. I'm wondering if the LED's knocked something out.

I'll try the connector too...didn't do anything with that during the replacement, but certainly worth a try. Thanks for the advice...I'll let you know how it turns out.
 
do you have resistors for the LED's or you may need to look at the flasher -- I have LED upfront and the cateyes for the rear -- it would blink once and then nothing, but the green arrow in the instrument cluster would stay on.....

Also, could you have switched the lines where you have the signals hooked up to the brake and the brake to the signals underneath the seat?
 
Since the rear works and the front doesn't, I'd start with the brake light switch at the front lever. Check the operation and the wiring there first.
 
You guys rock! As it turns out, it WAS the switch on the front brake lever. After pulling all the wiring and redoing it, a simple 5 minute fix was it. Pulled the switch off and cleaned it with some contact cleaner and now she's all good. Goes to show, always check the simple stuff first. Just sucks that it happened when I was doing work on the other end of the bike. Totally coincidental.

Thanks everybody! Me and the FZ are one again.
 
Note that it has been said that the bike does not use #1157s: This is what was said. "While they are very similar apparently the 1157s don't quite fit or work. The correct bulb can be found in any auto parts store. The stem will be silver-coloured instead of brass. Sylvania bulbs come in black and green packages and the number is stamped in the stem. If you use an 1157 it will work for many years and when it goes out the base will be corroded into the socket, you will break the glass trying to get it out, and end up having to buy a new brake light instead of just a bulb."



However physical dimensions (but not electrical specs) of the #1157, #2057, and (BMW OEM) #7528 are IDENTICAL and INTERCHANGEABLE. Perhaps somebody bought a cheap generic discount bulb, had it corrode or break off. The stock taillight assembly is vented to the air, and the plain brass lamps are more subject to corrosion than the plated bulbs.



In the USA you can buy cheap generic bulbs with that do not meet ECE specs. ECE specs require bulbs to be rated at 12 volts DC, and to have plated bases and larger contacts.



US spec bulbs often have plain brass bases, and can be rated at operational voltages of 12.8-14 volts DC.



The #1157, #2057 and #2357 bulbs are common types often available in the USA as generic discount bulbs made to meet the lower US specs. The #7528 and #7225 are a newer Euro style bulb, made in Europe, not commonly used in the USA, and therefore only available made to higher ECE specs. (Most US industrial electronic supply catalogs do not even list the #7528 or #7225 bulbs.)



For a few cents more, higher quality #1157, #2057, and #2357 ECE spec bulbs are also available. Other than that, the main difference between the #1157/#2057 and the #7528/#7225 is that the latter bulbs have a brighter brakelight (35 MSCD/candlepower, as opposed to 32 for the #1157/#2057), but less longevity (150 hours as opposed to 1200 hours).



SO, FINALLY, lacking the OEM #7528, your best substitute for the OEM #7528 would be the #2357 built to ECE specs, but it's likely no brighter than the #7528, as the #2357 is spec'd at higher voltage, but it would have a much longer life expectancy than the #7528. Note that the #7225 has a much dimmer running light - just 1.2 candlepower.
=============================
Office Chairs | Chairs
 
jdspack said:
You guys rock! As it turns out, it WAS the switch on the front brake lever. After pulling all the wiring and redoing it, a simple 5 minute fix was it. Pulled the switch off and cleaned it with some contact cleaner and now she's all good. Goes to show, always check the simple stuff first. Just sucks that it happened when I was doing work on the other end of the bike. Totally coincidental.

Thanks everybody! Me and the FZ are one again.
Click to expand...
I just discovered my front brake light switch not working and started searching on line for a replacement cost when I found this. Isn't the switch sealed? How were you able to use contact cleaner on it?
 
tnegralyab said:
I just discovered my front brake light switch not working and started searching on line for a replacement cost when I found this. Isn't the switch sealed? How were you able to use contact cleaner on it?
Click to expand...

I've had to do this also, they get gunked up easy because they are not completely water tight. Spray every orifice, work the switch, repeat. :)
If that doesn't do it for ya part shark has em the cheapest.
Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top