Before I get a gun and shoot the forums, I need jetting advice.

theWolfTamer

theWolfTamer

Wizard
thewolftamer71.blogspot.com
First, I'm not looking to make a faster rocket. I got a fast enough rocket.

Second, I must admit I have succumbed to peer pressure. I thought one did not do that when they were fully adult, but it seems I am either not fully adult or I was wrong. I won an ebay auction for a yosh trc (or trs?) tri oval exhaust for my 05 (2003 Yamaha FZ1 Yoshimura TRS trioval Stainless exaust : eBay Motors (item 330422932844 end time Apr-18-10 09:04:21 PDT)). After exhausting research, I'd narrowed it down to a yosh or two brothers so this is a good win.

The reason for this post. What do I need to do to install the slip-on without negatively impacting the performance? I just want the bike to be right.

I made the mistake of searching the other forum and discovered a lot of animosity about jet kits, enough to make me not ask this question over there.

Third, the questions:
I like the idea of the Ravenrider solution until I can afford and decide which one of the established kits to get.

So my question, is the Ravenrider thing worth it or will keeping everything stock until I get an established kit (I don't know how long that'll be) be detrimental to the bike?

Can I (I don't really mean me, grease stays under my fingernails and messes up my manicure) do the Ravenrider thing then later go with one of the establish kits?

Does anyone know where to get objective information about jet kits for the gen 1 without swimming through the crap-pile that I've already discovered? I do know the only kits made specifically for the fz1 are Dale's and Ivan's so I'm inclined to buy one of those for that reason. Thanks in advanced.

--theWolfTamer
 
Ravenrider and I wrote that write-up together... it's the method I use, and I've used it on a good many FZ's..... I've had other people with *ahem* "other people's" Jet kits installed ride my bike and they themselves have said that mine is much smoother and more responsive than theirs.

Also - FactoryPro makes a jet kit specifically for the FZ... as well as dynojet. ...

but, what you're paying for is the instruction sheet. Jets are dirt cheap. Needles can be shimmed without removing the carbs from the bike... (although you do have to remove them to change the mains, adjust mixture, and adjust float height) ... but... the main jets themselves and some spacers from Radio Shack are the only things that actually have to be purchased.
 
Well not having any experience with the Gen I FZ1 i can't comment directly on which one is the "best" jet kit.

I will tell you that since it's only a slip-on exhaust on there you will not hurt anything by putting it on before doing the jet-kit. At worst it will be a little lean at part throttle causing some surging.
 
The "kit" idea from Ravenrider is basically a collection of what works from each kit... the airbox mod is a combination of a few different ideas from Dale, Ivan, and Marc (owns Factory Pro) ...

It takes me about 40 minutes from start to finish to jet a set of carbs and drill the slides, about another 20 minutes to port the intake boots, and about 90 seconds to mod the airbox.

If you were going to do it for the first time yourself... I'd allow 2.5 hours for the carbs, 1 hour for the boots, and 5 minutes for the airbox....

The timing advance from Factory-Pro is a good complement to the jetting changes...

The overall result isn't just more power... it's better throttle response, cooler running, smoother running, etc. Extra power is just a convenient side-effect.

Here ya go: http://www.jcwhitney.com/large-roun...23&zmam=15972153&zmas=21&zmac=141&zmap=318923

buy-em. Sold as a 4 pack for $12.99
 
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Sifting through all this, I'm gathering that yes, you will need to re-jet, and the 'can' (exhaust) will then be up to the fuel ratio and tuned. Running the 'can' only will cause the carbs to run lean. Lean equals running HOT. Aside from your manicure..lol.. the jets are cheap and not very difficult to change yourself.

O'l Wolfie Girl, if you can follow V_A's jet sizing, as he's in about the same proximity in altitude as you are , You being down in the Georgia clay, ie. less than a thousand feet elevation, more like 600feet or so, Him in the North Carolina foothills, mabe 5-600 foot higher in difference. The jets themselves are cheap, like 5-7$ ea times 4 of them, the PITA is getting to the carbs, sort of......there the Clymer manual will make it fairly a breeze.

What you (everybody) needs to know is that from the factory........to meet emessions standards in the US imported models, the carburation, and on fuel injected bikes, (by electronic mapping) the jetting-mapping was ran small-lean to meet emissions. Less fuel equated to less emissions (burnt gasses) being read by the emissions testing equiptment, ie. less gasses, less polutants, thus they 'PASSED'..and met emissions. So most manufacturers adopted that stratagy of running the motors lean. On carburatored motors, leaner jets, on fuel injected motors, reduced injected fuel (mapping) so all the imported bikes basically were 'nutered' (leaned) to some degree from their actual potential.

Thuss the simple fix most of the time was to re-jet or re-map depending on which was being used, carbs or FI. Never the less the result was usually the same, it stopped popping on de-celeration, ran cooler, and there was new-found power, the power the motor 'SHOULD' have made by design. As V_A said, the jets are cheap, its likely that he has 'dialed in' his bike to the n'th degree, as good as is possable with his altitude ie. High altitude = thiner air...... Low altitude=thicker air, thus low altitude richer jets,or higher altitude, leaner jets. All these changed jets still being richer in the scale than the factory OEM offerings on a stock motor which popped and ran hotter.. Choosing the right size jets is the obstacle here. Not the can, the can turns out a 'no brainer' for all as it's an easy install.

Armed with Adams info on a good baseline re-jet, other than a bit of a pain to get the carbs out, it' not only would run better and be tuned, it would be a bit of learning-experiance under your belt.
Pluss, the finely tuned motor should clean-up and get excelent MPG.
 
Gohot229 said:
....Armed with Adams info on a good baseline re-jet, other than a bit of a pain to get the carbs out, it' not only would run better and be tuned, it would be a bit of learning-experiance under your belt.
Pluss, the finely tuned motor should clean-up and get excelent MPG.
Click to expand...

I cannot take credit for something that I too am learning about....Aaron is va_rider's name....
 
Gohot229 said:
If you decide to do that, I'd like to get in on it and meet both of you, whenever, if thats the choice. I'd say go for it Wolfie.
Click to expand...

I've been thinking about this all night and morning and have convinced myself this is the best choice for me. Since it is, I might as well have the best person do it hoping I can learn something from va_rider in the process. Now to find a true small nitrile glove so I can get it dirty!!

I can follow the instructions on Pat's site to mount the can myself. Then set an appointment with Aaron to get Baby* purring.

*click the link to get a description of the character that inspired my bike's name.
 
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va_rider said:
The "kit" idea from Ravenrider is basically a collection of what works from each kit... the airbox mod is a combination of a few different ideas from Dale, Ivan, and Marc (owns Factory Pro) ...

It takes me about 40 minutes from start to finish to jet a set of carbs and drill the slides, about another 20 minutes to port the intake boots, and about 90 seconds to mod the airbox.

If you were going to do it for the first time yourself... I'd allow 2.5 hours for the carbs, 1 hour for the boots, and 5 minutes for the airbox....

The timing advance from Factory-Pro is a good complement to the jetting changes...

The overall result isn't just more power... it's better throttle response, cooler running, smoother running, etc. Extra power is just a convenient side-effect.

Here ya go: http://www.jcwhitney.com/large-round-type-main-jets-n100-604/p2015700.jcwx?skuId=399882&TID=8014524F

buy-em. Sold as a 4 pack for $12.99
Click to expand...

What else will I need?

Thanks.
 
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I'm still waiting for the exhaust to arrive. Dumb me made some changes to my paypal account that delayed payment, but it's due any day now.

I've been reading so that I can understand the whys behind the carb jetting and discovered escort's post on the other forum about the new carb failure problem. I think I may be noticing symptoms from this, as sometimes when I slide the choke off, the bike cuts off. It usually starts right back up without the choke but still.

Would it be possible during the jetting to change whatever it is he's talking back for peace of mind? Or will the jetting resolve that issue and better to not worry about it?

I'm really getting anxious about the new pipe. I can't wait for it get here!! He shipped it on Thursday so maybe it will arrive while it's raining early next week.
 
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