Bad battery or bad charging system??

Hi all, it's my 1st post here

I was riding my newly aquired 01 FZ1 for about a week without any trouble. But then yesterday I was going to my buddy's house. I parked on the sidewalk and turned off the engine to make a phone call for direction. Then when I tried to start the bike (5 min stop max), it tried to crank and then I got the click from the solenoid. Everything was reset Eventually, I jumped it and got home no problem.

When I got the bike a week ago it had the same problem too. And I needed to jump it. However,the PO said it never happen before:banghead:

So, today after work, I use my multimeter to get the following readings from the batt. post. (Low beam, grip heat is off)

Ignition off - 12.31V

Ignition on - 11.66V

At the moment I pressed the starter - ~9V

Idle (1000RPM) - 11.9V

@ 4500RPM - 13.3V

From what I understand the battery is a batteriesplus the was made in 12/21/2009. I looked under the tank and the white connector looks great without any sign of trouble (I didn't disconnect to look however).

I'm wondering if I should just get a new batt and hope for the best or just replace the connector?
 
Hi all, it's my 1st post here

I was riding my newly aquired 01 FZ1 for about a week without any trouble. But then yesterday I was going to my buddy's house. I parked on the sidewalk and turned off the engine to make a phone call for direction. Then when I tried to start the bike (5 min stop max), it tried to crank and then I got the click from the solenoid. Everything was reset Eventually, I jumped it and got home no problem.

When I got the bike a week ago it had the same problem too. And I needed to jump it. However,the PO said it never happen before:banghead:

So, today after work, I use my multimeter to get the following readings from the batt. post. (Low beam, grip heat is off)

Ignition off - 12.31V

Ignition on - 11.66V

At the moment I pressed the starter - ~9V

Idle (1000RPM) - 11.9V

@ 4500RPM - 13.3V

From what I understand the battery is a batteriesplus the was made in 12/21/2009. I looked under the tank and the white connector looks great without any sign of trouble (I didn't disconnect to look however).

I'm wondering if I should just get a new batt and hope for the best or just replace the connector?

It's been known to have a battery go bad after two years. Especially if the bike sat for any amount of time and was not on a trickle charger. Why not get a fully automatic floating charger and plug it in for a few days after riding to see if the battery has any issues. The new chargers are inexpensive and tell you if the battery won't take a charge. It may cost you 29 to 39 bucks for a good unit. It's just weird that it crapped out on you while you were riding. When you had the bike off did you leave the headlights on? Just curious.
 
That's what I think is odd too. Also in alaska mist of the bikes sit for the winter (sept to around apr/may) so I won't be too surprise the batt has been sitting for a bit. However, the previous owner said he's rode the bike earlier.

When I turn of the bike with the ignition switch so it killed all the lights.
 
Definitely a bad battery. A fully charged battery at rest should have 12.65V. During cranking should not drop below about 10.2 volts. The fact that you have over 13 volts at 4500 with a weak battery tells me that your charging system is fine.
 
I got ya. Do you know if the bike was kept indoors or outside? Also, do you know if the P.O. had it on a charger?

The bike was sitting inside, not sure if it's heated or not. Also uncertain about the battery if it's out or not. I just bought a new batt. and will put it in to see if it'll do the same thing.
 
The bike was sitting inside, not sure if it's heated or not. Also uncertain about the battery if it's out or not. I just bought a new batt. and will put it in to see if it'll do the same thing.

In addition to installing the new battery, I would unplug the large white connector under the tank and check the condition of the pins. I had similar symptoms and thought that it was the battery. I found the pins in the connector for the red positive wire to the regulator were fried. I bypassed the connector for the red wire and all was well again. The battery is back to normal. Very easy to check.
 
In addition to installing the new battery, I would unplug the large white connector under the tank and check the condition of the pins. I had similar symptoms and thought that it was the battery. I found the pins in the connector for the red positive wire to the regulator were fried. I bypassed the connector for the red wire and all was well again. The battery is back to normal. Very easy to check.

So, I went out and took a pic of the connector. If I'm correct, the connector is still good, right?
 
i would try to charge the battery overnight and see what happens. i usually charge mine if i don't go for a long ride in a month. 2nd battery on my gen 1, 1st one lasted 5+ yrs :D
hope that helps..
 
So, today after work, I use my multimeter to get the following readings from the batt. post. (Low beam, grip heat is off)

Ignition off - 12.31V

Ignition on - 11.66V

At the moment I pressed the starter - ~9V

Idle (1000RPM) - 11.9V

@ 4500RPM - 13.3V

From what I understand the battery is a batteriesplus the was made in 12/21/2009. I looked under the tank and the white connector looks great without any sign of trouble (I didn't disconnect to look however).

Almost same exact situation. Just bought my FZ1 2001 an rode it fine for the first day then "click-click". Charged the battery, road fine for a week, then it died again. The battery is from 09 also.

I tested the battery earlier today, and my numbers are almost exactly the same as the OP's. However, when the bike is around 4000RPMs the battery only goes to 12.78V.

So is it the battery or the charging system.. or both?
 
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