AIS block off...newbie how to

E

Eric Lawson

Well-Known Member
Visit site
Ok so what is the quickest and easiest way to block off AIS? I see that both Graves's and Ivan's both have kits in form of block off plates. Yet i have seen on this very forum people use home methods such as a marbel and a clamp. So what is most simple easy way to get this done, and how long should i expect to be out in the garage?
 
You can leave the AIS system in place. What I did was to put an extra clamp on the tube that connects to the bottom of the airbox. Then, I pushed into the tube an electrical wire nut a couple inches. I tightened the clamp below the nut so it couldn't slip by. Then, I topped off the tube with silicone, put it back on the airbox and clamped it in place.

To do this, you have to lift the tank, remove the airbox cover, remove the stacks which releases the bottom of the airbox and allows access to the tube which is attached to the underside of the airbox on the left/clutch side. Expect about an hour but do it after your riding day is over. You'll want the silicone to cure over night.

Essentially, what ever you can snugly fit into the hose and clamp in place. I don't think I needed the silicone but I wanted to be sure it was sealed.

To remove the whole thing, you need to replace the plates on the valve cover with either Ivan's, Copperdog's or block the holes where the tubes would normally connect. Some have even used JB Weld and welded a penny under the plate to cover the hole.
 
FZ1inNH said:
You can leave the AIS system in place. What I did was to put an extra clamp on the tube that connects to the bottom of the airbox. Then, I pushed into the tube an electrical wire nut a couple inches. I tightened the clamp below the nut so it couldn't slip by. Then, I topped off the tube with silicone, put it back on the airbox and clamped it in place.

To do this, you have to lift the tank, remove the airbox cover, remove the stacks which releases the bottom of the airbox and allows access to the tube which is attached to the underside of the airbox on the left/clutch side. Expect about an hour but do it after your riding day is over. You'll want the silicone to cure over night.

Essentially, what ever you can snugly fit into the hose and clamp in place. I don't think I needed the silicone but I wanted to be sure it was sealed.

To remove the whole thing, you need to replace the plates on the valve cover with either Ivan's, Copperdog's or block the holes where the tubes would normally connect. Some have even used JB Weld and welded a penny under the plate to cover the hole.
Click to expand...


Why would anyone want to leave it in place? The purpose of removing it is not to defeat the "benefits" of the system, it is to remove the clutter that the system inflicts and make the bike look cleaner and easier to work on.
 
Broke_Dirty_FZ1 said:
Why would anyone want to leave it in place? The purpose of removing it is not to defeat the \\"benefits\\" of the system, it is to remove the clutter that the system inflicts and make the bike look cleaner and easier to work on.
Click to expand...

Ummm . . . wrong?

The purpose of blocking it is to stop the popping on decel after installing an aftermarket exhaust. That is the benefit.

The benefit of removing it is to access the plugs easier. Most owners only remove it on the first plug change. That is still many thousands of miles away.
 
Last edited:
AIS now blocked!

Thanks everyone! After reading more threads and seeing pics, i decided to go ahead and try. I am not very mechanically inclined so i was nervous just to lift gas tank. I used bungee cord to keep tank up while i removed airbox screws. I did go the easy route on this, and used AIS opening on top of airbox. I had rubber nipple which fit over nicely and used clamp to make sure stayed in place. This may not be the preferred method on forum but i tell you it worked. While i had stock air filter out i removed the screen on it to maybe let more air in. I put everything back together and started it and guess what...no popping! I did'nt get to to actually ride bike but i reved a few times without any pop at all. Took me less than an hour and i couldnt be happier with new exhaust sound!
 
FZ1inNH said:
Ummm . . . wrong?

The purpose of blocking it is to stop the popping on decel after installing an aftermarket exhaust. That is the benefit.

The benefit of removing it is to access the plugs easier. Most owners only remove it on the first plug change. That is still many thousands of miles away.
Click to expand...

Oh I see. I guess I am just used to properly tuning my bikes after messing with the exhaust.
 
FZ1inNH said:
Oh I see, you can't tell that blocking the AIS and removing it accomplish the same exact goal. :p
Click to expand...

Well, not really. Blocking the system may decrease or eliminate the popping, but that doesn't mean it is in a proper state of tune. It may be bring it back close enough to stock settings to eliminate the popping, but stock settings are still a bit lean, and you can make your engine run better, less hot, and add longevity to it by getting a good tune a bit more on the rich side.
 
Hopefully I will be doing this soon too. This is very helpful.

I just got my flies in from Copper Dawg. Next weekend I will be installing a high flow air filter, installing the flies and modding the air box. Anyone know if all this will void my extened warranty? lol

Hopefully, a few weeks later, I will be doing the same as you after I get a new exhaust.
 
Broke_Dirty_FZ1 said:
Well, not really. Blocking the system may decrease or eliminate the popping, but that doesn't mean it is in a proper state of tune. It may be bring it back close enough to stock settings to eliminate the popping, but stock settings are still a bit lean, and you can make your engine run better, less hot, and add longevity to it by getting a good tune a bit more on the rich side.
Click to expand...

True, but one has to be able to afford the power commander and the tuner too. After buying two new Yamaha bikes and a new Yamaha C3 scooter on the same day? Well, mod money is at a premium even though we are only paying on two of the three. We own her bike outright.

When I have the money, I'll get the goods and have it tuned. For now, I deal with what I can and that is the free to cheaply priced mods.
 
Haileyan said:
Hopefully I will be doing this soon too. This is very helpful.

I just got my flies in from Copper Dawg. Next weekend I will be installing a high flow air filter, installing the flies and modding the air box. Anyone know if all this will void my extened warranty? lol

Hopefully, a few weeks later, I will be doing the same as you after I get a new exhaust.
Click to expand...

Nice! I have to order my plates from CD and get those installed this winter. I also thought of just removing mine and grinding them to match CD's plates with the ears. ;) Wife bought me a nice bench grinder a few weeks ago. :tup:

NH is cracking down hard on bike emissions so I have not removed the AIS in the event I need to reverse it, not gutted the CAT and kept the stock exhaust in case I need to swap it out for inspection. She has to be ready to mod and unmod in a single morning!
 
FZ1inNH said:
True, but one has to be able to afford the power commander and the tuner too. After buying two new Yamaha bikes and a new Yamaha C3 scooter on the same day? Well, mod money is at a premium even though we are only paying on two of the three. We own her bike outright.

When I have the money, I'll get the goods and have it tuned. For now, I deal with what I can and that is the free to cheaply priced mods.
Click to expand...

Well, I digress. I am still thinking of tuning via carburetor adjustments and such. I can do that myself and I have all the tools to do so. I didn't even think about the fuel injected bikes needing computer help.
 
Sorry to drag up this old thread but what is the purpose of the AIS system?
I know that you remove or block it off to reduce popping on decel but why is it there in the first place??
The popping on decel is a characteristic of the bike, so why is everyone blocking it off or removing it?
 
Last edited:
I plan to just take the AIS system off the bike, remove the hoses that connect to the plate and cut the hose and insert the correct size copper plug in there, use a hose clamp on the plug and done. Gonna take the hose to lowes, and get 3 of the plugs to do it.

http://images.orgill.com/200x200/6951040.jpg

Those style plugs. Kinda like an extended vacuum cap. Did that for the H pipe on my stang and it works fine. No leaks.

Dont even have to touch the plates doing it that way! However, you are ruining the hoses so if you have to put the system back on it wont work for you. They dont test Emissions here, I just had my Gen1 inspected last week and they looked at it for 5 mins and slapped a sticker on it. Just wanted to make sure my signals worked etc lol.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top