530 verses 520 conversion

Ok I'll bite.....Why would you want to change to a smaller lighter guage chain? For the slight amount of weight savings, it seems that this is based only on changing 'because you can'. What would be the actual superiority of this conversion. Looking at my Gen. 1, I can see that theres about mabe 5/8 th's of an inch clearance, so if you changed the rear wheel or widened it to run a 190, perhaps there would be some advantage.....? otherwise, as I say, it looks like a 'because I can' thing.
 
Ok I'll bite.....Why would you want to change to a smaller lighter guage chain? For the slight amount of weight savings, it seems that this is based only on changing 'because you can'. What would be the actual superiority of this conversion. Looking at my Gen. 1, I can see that theres about mabe 5/8 th's of an inch clearance, so if you changed the rear wheel or widened it to run a 190, perhaps there would be some advantage.....? otherwise, as I say, it looks like a 'because I can' thing.

Like you said, mostly for weight savings and it also lessens the rolling mass on the driveline. Mostly a racing application, but there are a few guys that run the 520 with no problems. I think VA runs a 520 chain if I'm not mistaken.
 
To me running a 520 chain on a street driven liter bike is not really worth it. Does it make a difference in performance...yes, but at the expense of chain life. I know va_rider will say the opposite and maybe he's very good at maintaining his chain, but the vast majority of others that have done this report shorter chain life.

It's kind of like using an aluminum rear sprocket on the street. Yes, it will make a slight difference, but you're giving up component life in the process.
 
if you're going to do it, you have to be willing to spend the cash for a good chain, and know how to adjust it properly.

I get better wear and longer life from my 520 chain compared to the stock DID 530 chain.
 
adjust and lube while chain is warm / hot... measure the adjusters with a digital caliper to ensure that it's running straight and true. Clean the chain with a brush every once in a while to get all of the crap out of the links.
 
Not worth it to me. However, there is a significant difference in saving weight that is continually being lifted vs. static weight. For example, lightening the chain and cogs is far more important to acceleration (and perhaps mpg) than losing weight in parts that aren't in constant motion.:stunta]:
 
This is why I would never drop down in size. Nobody can tell me that given the same care with maintenance that the 530 chain is not better. The picture is of a failed chain on a 650 Bandit! Not a 130-150 bhp FZ...so I will stick with the correct fitment and maintenance.
The chain in question went off with a bang during a very spirited ride on the west side of Scotland last year. After the 1st inspection nothing could be seen and the rider carried on assuming a stone or similar had hit the bike, all be it at a steadier pace. A nice view further up the road was a possible life saver when the broken link was spotted! omg.
1850d1265622673-530-verses-520-conversion-broken-link.jpg
 
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One of my next investments will be a laser chain adjuster. I'v been 40 plus years doing it by sight and rolling the wheel while on the stand and watching chain walk on the front sproket, but this laser dealie seems to be a no-mistake way, if properly done, it's fool-proof.
 
This is why I would never drop down in size. Nobody can tell me that given the same care with maintenance that the 530 chain is not better. The picture is of a failed chain on a 650 Bandit! Not a 130-150 bhp FZ...so I will stick with the correct fitment and maintenance.
The chain in question went off with a bang during a very spirited ride on the west side of Scotland last year. After the 1st inspection nothing could be seen and the rider carried on assuming a stone or similar had hit the bike, all be it at a steadier pace. A nice view further up the road was a possible life saver when the broken link was spotted! omg.
What a lucky bum, I asume it didn't come to catastrophe before he caught the mess.
 
that is a picture of an improperly installed chain... the plate on the master-link fell off... you can see that the missing plate is on the rivet type master link... and you can also see that the ends are still perfectly round, and have not been mushroomed with the rivet chain tool.
 
One of my next investments will be a laser chain adjuster. I'v been 40 plus years doing it by sight and rolling the wheel while on the stand and watching chain walk on the front sproket, but this laser dealie seems to be a no-mistake way, if properly done, it's fool-proof.

Do you have any links for this item. I've looked and can't find it. I would like to see how much they go for.
 
that is a picture of an improperly installed chain... the plate on the master-link fell off... you can see that the missing plate is on the rivet type master link... and you can also see that the ends are still perfectly round, and have not been mushroomed with the rivet chain tool.

That is exactly what I was thinking! That didn't look like a chain "failure" to me.
 
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