26000 mile adjust

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strester

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I am getting close to doing the valve adjustmet. I called a local dealer here in dallas area and they said $700-$800 for the valve adjust. Does that sound high or close to average. I was really thinking 3-4hunred. Ill be saving pennies.
Sorry kids we may have to miss a few dinners, priorities.. lol
 
That sounds pretty stiff to me. I'd ask them what their hourly rate was, how many hours they are allowed for the valve clearance check, and how many shims they figured they would have to replace? That would be just to get an idea if they had any idea of what the job entailed. From what I've seen on this forum, for the first check, usually only a couple shims need to be replaced and although the whole cam must still come out for a single shim, it shouldn't take all that long to get it out and back in. I'dike to hear their reasoning for that kind of off the cuff quote.
 
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Do it yourself, it's not that tough. You need a shim kit and a 1/4" drive torque wrench to torque the camshaft caps. Not sure I'd trust anybody else to do it; I got each of my valves dead on and carefully aligned the cam sprockets with the crank. Why pay someone else who might say, "Oh, that valve's close enough and then get one of the cams off a tooth. The engine will still run; just with 20 less HP. BTY, I did mine at 6000 mi and many valves were off. And I loc-tited the cam sprocket bolts; if they come loose, they'll do serious damage to the cylinder head.
 
Blacksport said:
Do it yourself, it's not that tough. You need a shim kit and a 1/4" drive torque wrench to torque the camshaft caps. Not sure I'd trust anybody else to do it; I got each of my valves dead on and carefully aligned the cam sprockets with the crank. Why pay someone else who might say, "Oh, that valve's close enough and then get one of the cams off a tooth. The engine will still run; just with 20 less HP. BTY, I did mine at 6000 mi and many valves were off. And I loc-tited the cam sprocket bolts; if they come loose, they'll do serious damage to the cylinder head.
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That sounds extraordinary to me. When the first check and adjustment isn't until 26,000 miles, at 6000 you shouldn't have to do anything unless you got a bad motor from the factory. With 20 shims to start with, how many were actually out of specs?
 
I was very picky about getting them right in the middle of the allowed tolerance. For instance, the exhaust should be between (I think) .008" and
.010", which means I set them at .009" (I like to work in inches, more familiar). So, out of the 20 valves, there was about 5 or 6 that I didn't touch.

One intake was very loose, you could hear it tapping at low RPM, which is why I decided to adjust them. I'm not blaming the factory, valves and tappets "seat" during the break-in, some more than others. I do think Yamaha extended the adjustment too far though.
 
Blacksport said:
Do it yourself, it's not that tough. You need a shim kit and a 1/4" drive torque wrench to torque the camshaft caps. Not sure I'd trust anybody else to do it; I got each of my valves dead on and carefully aligned the cam sprockets with the crank. Why pay someone else who might say, "Oh, that valve's close enough and then get one of the cams off a tooth. The engine will still run; just with 20 less HP. BTY, I did mine at 6000 mi and many valves were off. And I loc-tited the cam sprocket bolts; if they come loose, they'll do serious damage to the cylinder head.
Click to expand...

I do all the other maintenances myself, but doing this particular one myself intimidates me for some reason. I still have 8000 miles to decide. :)
 
I use the baseball card trading method.

I bring my old shims to the local dealer, I trade out he ones I don't need for theirs.

As long as they are in spec, we just do a straight over the counter swap.

(I buy all my tires/parts/oil/etc there... so I figure this is a bonus for being a frequent flyer. :) )
 
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