2009 FZ1 low end missfire, help please.

Bought the bike a few weeks back, been great until a week ago. it has developed a serious missfire under load from just above idle to 3,600rpm after which it pulls clean and strong. to get it to not miss you have to be EXTREMELY timid on the throttle. It feels like it is dumping one and sometimes two cylinders it is not a consistant miss, it alway does it but at varying rates. Have replaced the plugs, old ones were pretty good, The primary TP Sensor tested out of specs so have replaced it today, didn't fix it. Bike is more responsive but miss is still there.
The only mod on the bike is a K&N air filter, still has stock exhaust. Doesn't show any fault codes. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
Quite a few people have had similar problems with an intermittent missfire and its usually a bad coil.

Often the coils will test ok and the issue is tiny cracks in the insulation.

Try pulling the coils off the plugs one at a time and wrapping them in electrical tape and go for a test ride. When the miss-fire disappears you have found your bad coil.



The tape is a short term fix and helps in diagnosing the bad coil.
 
I just went through this myself. I bought two coils from Ebay (for $50 shipped) and swapped them in. It looks like I picked the right one, since the hesitation at low RPMs is gone. For the record, all my coils tested within spec with a voltmeter.

I know I should go back and figure out exactly which one of the coils is bad, but it's Spring and the weather is fine. It might be a few days before I get around to it.
 
FYI, you can replace the coil on the #1 cylinder without removing anything. It's tight, but easily doable. This will allow you to figure out which one is bad and toss it.
 
FYI, you can replace the coil on the #1 cylinder without removing anything. It's tight, but easily doable. This will allow you to figure out which one is bad and toss it.


:+1: Pure Genius. Since I replaced two (#1 & #3), I know that one of the two I pulled out is bad. I suspect #3. This suggestion probably just saved me two hours of messing around.

Thanks for the "common" sense.
 
Missing low revs

I was about to start a thread and found this one, My 08 FZ1N is doing the same but someone has told me to run the bike up to temp and spray water on each header and see if they all fizzle and if one dont thats the problem cylinder. Just done it and one on left side seems to do hardly any fizzle with water yet the other 3 go crazy with water so i am i right to think the fault is with that plug or coil? Any help or advice greatfully accepted and hope this idea i was told about helps anyone else.
 
I have been dealing with a similar issue on my '09 FZ1. The bike stutters at low rpm, specifically from 2k to 3.5k. I have procrastinated a bit on some of the recommended maintenance and so I changed out the air filter and swapped the OEM plugs out for NGK Iridium. The issue continued. I did a little research through this forum and checked the diagnostic mode and found no codes. I sprayed the headers and found that cylinder 3 might be the problem. I ordered a new coil and hope that will fix the problem. It seems to have been the cause troubling other riders with the same low rpm problem. I just hope I don't need more than 1!
 
I have been dealing with a similar issue on my '09 FZ1. The bike stutters at low rpm, specifically from 2k to 3.5k. I have procrastinated a bit on some of the recommended maintenance and so I changed out the air filter and swapped the OEM plugs out for NGK Iridium. The issue continued. I did a little research through this forum and checked the diagnostic mode and found no codes. I sprayed the headers and found that cylinder 3 might be the problem. I ordered a new coil and hope that will fix the problem. It seems to have been the cause troubling other riders with the same low rpm problem. I just hope I don't need more than 1!

Seems to be a common fault with these bikes so be good to hear if the coil cures your fault. Look forward to hearing if it works or not. Good luck
 
Just done it and one on left side seems to do hardly any fizzle with water yet the other 3 go crazy with water so i am i right to think the fault is with that plug or coil? Any help or advice greatfully accepted and hope this idea i was told about helps anyone else.

Based on that, your problem is almost certainly with that (non fizzling) cylinder. Definitely suspect the coil. I replaced the plugs and the problem went away for about 2000 miles. Then I swapped out two coils for used R1 (2004) coils. I've got about 1000 on the "new" coils and the hesitation hasn't reappeared.
 
other coil options

Failing coils seem to be a pretty common occurrence on this bike. Does anyone know of any better quality replacement coils other than OEM? If the factory parts are failing, maybe an aftermarket part would be better.
 
How hard is it to change the coils and how long will it take?

The first time I pulled my plugs, it took a couple of hours for all four. I wasn't in a hurry, and probably took a couple of breaks.

Depending on the size of your hands, you might be able to get away with just unbolting the radiator (two bolts -- one on the bottom and one on top) and pulling it away from the engine to give enough clearance to work and pull the coils out. For me, the hardest part was getting enough leverage on the coil/boot to pop it loose from the top of the plug. When re-assembling, I put a little dielectric grease on the connectors at the top of the coil assembly and a little bit inside the boot where it connects to the spark plug.

Now that I've done it a couple of times, I could probably complete the job in an hour or maybe slightly longer.
 
So... it took a couple of weeks to get my new coil from partshark, but it finally came today and I put it in the bike. Problem solved. Prior I had tested all the coils with my multimeter and they tested within the allowable specs provided in the Yamaha manual, so I wasn't sure that it was going to be the solution. But, the fourth coil looked suspicious and it turned out to be the culprit.

I took a snapshot of the bad coil, it had metal along the edge that I don't think is supposed to be exposed like that. None of the other coils had any exposed metal at all. Their was a little rust as well although I don't really think that makes as big a difference as the metal being out.
 
How hard is it to change the coils and how long will it take?

Cheers

It took me about an hour to change all four plugs the first time I did it. I unbolted the radiator and left all hoses attached so that I didn't have to drain the coolant. One thing to remember is to put something soft like a rag or tennis ball over the bottom brace so it doesn't puncture the radiator as you move your hand around to get at the plugs or coils.

Removing the AIS will make it much easier to get at the coils. I removed the AIS and put it block off plates before doing the plugs to free up some room down there. IF you have big hands you might have to remove the radiator completely, but I would recommend trying it attached first. If you can make it work, it will save you lots of time and the cost of new coolant.
 
So... it took a couple of weeks to get my new coil from partshark, but it finally came today and I put it in the bike. Problem solved. Prior I had tested all the coils with my multimeter and they tested within the allowable specs provided in the Yamaha manual, so I wasn't sure that it was going to be the solution. But, the fourth coil looked suspicious and it turned out to be the culprit.

I took a snapshot of the bad coil, it had metal along the edge that I don't think is supposed to be exposed like that. None of the other coils had any exposed metal at all. Their was a little rust as well although I don't really think that makes as big a difference as the metal being out.

Nice job. Hopefully that'll fix your issue long-term. I replaced mine about 3 weeks and 1500 miles ago and all's still well. I didn't see any difference between the two coils I pulled out compared to the new ones or each other. That exposed section where the "sleeve" doesn't quite meet is there on both of the ones I took out. I still don't see a way to definitively tell if the coil is bad.
 
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I know this an old thread …but I have a slight misfire /rumble when rolling at around 3k rpm that is gone as soon as I slightly add throttle ,and if I’m rolling highway speeds where rpm is up around 4k or higher there’s no rumble /misfire…I don’t know if it’s a problem ? Or just issue of having aftermarket mid pipe and slip on ?if I keep the baffle in it seems to improve a bit , but still will give a exhaust ( believe it’s a exhaust lol)quick and somewhat loud pop when on throttle and I let off after shifting into next gear …pop is not all the time /not every hi rpm shift usually right as hitting op temp….but rumble is as soon as up to op temp and constant…… constant while rolling ,at idle it seems fine ,tach is pretty steady with only the very slightest movement at idle ….Or , is it from some other “change” that may have been done to the bike b4 I got iT this season..? Anyways wanted to see your video but YouTube says it’s private ? I don’t know if you’ve set that on purpose or it just happened ,or it’s gone or something ? Figured Id ask 🤷🏼‍♂️
 
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