2008 Friction plates worn out at 4500 miles

C

charney_42

Member
I was wonder if anyone knows why my friction plates would be worn out at 4500-5000 miles?
I bought the bike used less than 1000 miles ago. Maybe the previous owner was that hard on the clutch. The clutch cable adjustment seemed right. The clutch cover clutch lever arm lined up with the marks on the cover and arm.
Any how I have the old clutch out and the friction plates are measuring less than .110 which I believe is what my service manual says is the limits.
Just dont want to put my new clutch plates in and have them wear out as fast.
Could it be that the bike has a more power that the oem clutch could handel with a power commander (custom tune) and exhaust?
Any thoughts you might have would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Scott
 
I think you have a situation that says the PO was one of those guys you see on You Tube doing the burnout at 9000 thing followed by a front wheel stoppie. I've got just shy of 20,000 on my 08 and the clutch is fine. The one thing we can't control is how a used machine is treatd before we get it, unless we know the person. Just get a set of new friction discs and maybe check the steel plates when you get it torn down to make sure they haven't warped.
 
Thats probably the case. I have a new EBC SRK clutch kit ordered and hope that will make it move like its supose to. Figured i'd replace it all and be done with it.
 
charney_42 said:
Thats probably the case. I have a new EBC SRK clutch kit ordered and hope that will make it move like its supose to. Figured i'd replace it all and be done with it.
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Yea, I would replace the steel plates as well since you'll have it all apart anyway. That clutch was definitely abused (or improperly adjusted) by the PO. Stock clutch is more than capable of handling the extra power that the basic mods give you.
 
I paid $200 for a Barnett carbon fiber from riders discount

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If you had the free play adjusted correctly at the lever and the right oil then........


Most likely the previous owner abused the clutch. The wrong oil can also cause issues. I always try to run an oil that has the JASO MA rating on the bottle. That is a rating for oil approved and tested for motorcycle wet clutches

Any oil that has Energy conserving II on the bottle is a very bad choice
it contains friction modifiers that are not compatible with a wet clutch.

If the clutch went out that fast you MAY have a ton of fiber material floating around in your bike. If you find excess fiber material in the clutch basket it's not a bad idea to drop the pan and clean the oil pickup screen.
Also be sure to change your oil filter its probably full of clutch material too.
 
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YZFRiderNY said:
Did you hear anything about your bike being done yet D?
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I called yesterday and they said that the part they ordered wasn'nt in yet and they didn't have an eta for me...should be this week tho.... I hope

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I got my clutch off of JCmotors website. They were running a special $170 for new springs, friction plates, and metal plates. Oh and free shipping. Every where I looked it couldn't be beat for the price. And that was on the EBC SRK clutch rebuild kit.
I got it all installed last night. It shifts smoother than ever before and no slippage. The only thing I worry about is having the clutch cable adjusted right. I have the marks on the clutch cover and clutch lever aligned and it seems to disengage totally so maybe I do have it right but wish I had a neighbor or buddy around that could confirm it. Rode to work this morning and everything seemed to be going well. I'll probably run this oil for another couple hundred miles and then change it again. I've only had the current oil in there for the ride back from storage to my house but don't want that old clutch fiber floating around in there.
Anyhow thanks for the replys.
 
Make sure the clutch free play is also adjusted correctly at the lever...It should be 10-15mm according to the owner's manual.
 
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