2007 Hyosung GT250r

[FZ1riderNY]

So taking the steering head and clip-ons off is pretty simple. 1 bolt on each side clipping to the forks and one bolt underneath that bolts the clip-ons to the steering head.

I do have a problem though. The spacing between the forks and the steering rod is different between what I bought and the standard GT250R. I will have to buy the lower as well. That or I will need to drill and tap the existing steering head to put the risers and bar on. That, of course, would be my best option. I am no machine shop though and I am afraid I would not get everything straight.

I'm thinking that it's gonna be a bad deal all around with that head, even if you get the lower. You would need to have the same front wheel and spacers from the other bike as well in order for the brake calipers to line up. It may be that this problem up top will work it's way all the way down. By changing one thing up top will have you changing everything top to bottom. This is only if the space from side to side is different as well which is what Eric was talking about I believe.

 

[Hail]

I may be able to use the stock steering head and sell the one I bought for the GT250.

After removing the stock steering head (upper triple), you can see there is reinforcement where the risers would bolt on. I am holding up half of one of the risers to illustrate. The reinforcement is identical to what is on the new steering head only the new one is already drilled and tapped.

My thinking is that I could drill out the forward holes, Mount with new stainless bolts and nuts then use the risers as a guide to drill out the rear holes.

Thoughts????

 

[FZ1riderNY]

I may be able to use the stock steering head and sell the one I bought for the GT250.

After removing the stock steering head (upper triple), you can see there is reinforcement where the risers would bolt on. I am holding up half of one of the risers to illustrate. The reinforcement is identical to what is on the new steering head only the new one is already drilled and tapped.

My thinking is that I could drill out the forward holes, Mount with new stainless bolts and nuts then use the risers as a guide to drill out the rear holes.

Thoughts????

That would solve the issue with the handlebars and the lock to lock spacing but what concerns me is the fork clearance.

 

[Hail]

The lowering kit looks great Brad. What I would like to know is what make, model, and size rear tire is that you have? I like the profile on it better than what Richie is running on the Kawasaki. Thanks. I hope you resolve the issues up front.

It is a Shinko SR-741, 150/70-17

I know people give Shinko a hard time but I have had not problems with this tire so far. I have pushed it harder than my wife ever will. Still need to scuff them up a bit more for her though.

 

[Hail]

That would solve the issue with the handlebars and the lock to lock spacing but what concerns me is the fork clearance.

I am not sure what you mean. If I drill out the original steering head and add the risers to it nothing about the forks will change.

 

[BroHay]

after taking a moment and reading ALL the posts, recommendation was already suggested.....just got lost in the photos and such and not reading everything that was being suggested

the only concern I'd have is making sure the the front holes line up without causing any offset b/c if you are off, may be noticeable for the overall bar placement

 

[Hail]

just and FYI.....this worked for me, but a rattle can offered just enough clearance to raise the rear wheel and then it was a matter of finding the optimum placement to not bind the bolts for the links.

Then it was real handy b/c then I could control the wheel to either cause the can to raise/lower to find the optimum placement to put everything back together again....

found this out last night, when I realized what I though were some "extra" pieces, that actually needed to be installed.

but all is good again....it is only painful the first time.....after that, you only get faster....

I actually installed the upper bolt first then I used my feet to raise the tire up until I could get the lower bolt in. Worked pretty durn well.

 

[Hail]

on the gen I, the holes in the clamp are just a means for the rod to pass through and it is held in place with a lock washer and bolt (cannot recall if they are reversed thread or some sort of locking nut)

am I missing somthing, or would you just be able to punch through....?

On the GT250 steering head (that is designed for the risers and bar) the holes are drilled and tapped. You basically screw directly in to the steering head. No nuts.

With what I propose here I would have to use nuts and lock washers on the back side. Also have to get slightly longer bolts than what came with my risers.

 

[FZ1inTX]

Looks like you can either drill and tap or as Adam said, punch through, depending on how the risers are mounted on the new head. Easily doable and a TON less headache! Go for it! :tup:

How about a pic of the two heads, bottom side up, side by side? And a pic of the risers removed from the new head? Thanks!

 

[Hail]

after taking a moment and reading ALL the posts, recommendation was already suggested.....just got lost in the photos and such and not reading everything that was being suggested

the only concern I'd have is making sure the the front holes line up without causing any offset b/c if you are off, may be noticeable for the overall bar placement

Quit editing your posts after the fact! :spank2: :jk:

Yes, I am thinking that I drill the from holes dead center. And then mount the risers and bar using just the front holes. The bar being bolted on should ensure everything is straight. I would then use the risers as a guide to drill the rear holes. Or should I just take it to a machine shop to do it for me?

 

[FZ1riderNY]

I am not sure what you mean. If I drill out the original steering head and add the risers to it nothing about the forks will change.

Now I see what you said. Your using the original tree and drilling it. In that case you should have no problems. Excuse me for not reading closely enough.

 

[FZ1inTX]

A good center punch and a really good tap and die set... You feel up to the challenge? Do you have a drill press and a way to clamp this perfectly straight for all four holes?

If you answered yes to all, go for it. If not, take the old head and new risers to the shop and let them do it for a few bucks.

 

[Hail]

Looks like you can either drill and tap or as Adam said, punch through, depending on how the risers are mounted on the new head. Easily doable and a TON less headache! Go for it! :tup:

How about a pic of the two heads, bottom side up, side by side? And a pic of the risers removed from the new head? Thanks!

Ask and ye shall receive....

Bottom of both side by side ( I have not removed the ignition from the stock so they both stay side by side with the forms for now!) If you look closely I never would have been able to use the new steering head with the current bearings....

Here is a shot of the top of the new one. You can see the head is already threaded. No worries though...

 

[Hail]

Thanks all! I really do appreciate your input. It is great to be able to get input so quickly from knowledgeable folks.

I think I will take the old steering head up to my local shop, Motorcycles Unlimited, and have them drill this out for me. I would kick my own a$$ if I screwed this up. Maybe I can even get a few bucks on Korider.com for the GT250 Steering head I bought.

 

[FZ1inTX]

With these as separate parts, you can use one as a template for the other. Nice camera work Brad! :tup:

 

[Hail]

With these as separate parts, you can use one as a template for the other. :tup:

Now that is a great idea!

 

[FZ1inTX]

Maybe I can even get a few bucks on Korider.com for the GT250 Steering head I bought.

Snoop around and see who is buying... also see if people are wishing for one of a different color... then go get it powder coated and sell it for even more! :laugh2:

 

[Hail]

Now I see what you said. Your using the original tree and drilling it. In that case you should have no problems. Excuse me for not reading closely enough.

Trust me, I wish I would have posted after I tried everything. It would have made this whole part of the thread easier to read. I was jumping around a bit.

 

[NJFZ1]

I see no problem with drilling the one that came on the bike and then mounting the bar with the risers. Completely safe since it's already reinforced. This is my take on it, if you're going to do it yourself then drill through and use longer bolts with washers and nuts (and Locktite). If you're taking it to a machine shop then have them drill and tap it for a cleaner look and install. I doubt that at home you'd be able to drill precisely enough to use the drill and tap mounting method...:2cents:

 

[Hail]

Ok, I had my local shop drill and tap the stock GT250R steering head. I will not say how much it cost me. I will say it was less than trying to buy the lower tripple and everything else that would go along with it.

Just got it mounted. I need to finsh up a few things before I can find out if the bar will hit the windscreen. I may end up having to cut a bit of the screen.

Still lots of work to be done. First up is getting the front end off the ground so I can remove the forks and replace the fork oil. Then I will be determining which cables need to be replaced/re-routed.