FZ1riderNY
Moderator
Looking really good Brad. Nice job! Has she ridden the bike at all?
2007 Hyosung GT250r
- Thread starter Hail
- Start date
Hail
Moderator
Nope. I wont let her touch it untol it is lowered and bars setup for her. I know her to well. If she is uncomfortable the first time we have a lesson she will get turned off. I am am guessing, minimum, two weeks.
On that note... VA_RIDER, can you recommend an OEM parts outlet? I have email 3 different companies requesting quotes without a single reply for a week. Guess I am just going to haver to make those long distance calls.
Hail
Moderator
Finally got the gas cap back on the bike.
va_rider
Wizard
What're ya looking for?? We always got all of our parts from Hyosung directly...so I don't know how much help I can be there.... are there no local Hyosung dealers that could order parts for ya?
Hail
Moderator
Looking for the bar and risers from the GT250.
So far all I have done is send e-mail to some dealers and OEM parts outlets with no response. I am starting to just call today. Was really hoping you had experience with a reputable dealer.
va_rider
Wizard
Unfortunately... I was that reputable dealer....
The only other dealer I ever dealt with was "Rocket Roger" in Danville, VA
The only other dealer I ever dealt with was "Rocket Roger" in Danville, VA
Hail
Moderator
Well the shop that sold me the bike finally came through. I placed the order and parts should be here in a few days. I ordered the GT250 steering head with pre-drilled and tapped holes for the risers, bar and risers. All for about $150. So total for parts to get the bike fitting my wife is about $225 including the links.
By getting the steering head I am able to keep the existing one to put back to stock if I need to.
....now I am trying to decide whether I do the work or not. It is all stuff I have not done before. I am guessing labor will be about $150 - $175 to have the shop do all the work.
By getting the steering head I am able to keep the existing one to put back to stock if I need to.
....now I am trying to decide whether I do the work or not. It is all stuff I have not done before. I am guessing labor will be about $150 - $175 to have the shop do all the work.
Hail
Moderator
Received the steering head, risers and bar from the GT250 model. $160 for all together. Much better than other options like after market adjustable clip-ons.
I think I am going to try doing all the work myself. It will be a new experiance for me. I am going to take the oprtunity to drain the oil from the forks and replace with a slightly heavier weight oil.
I think I am going to have to order a few cables to reach the higher bars but I am going to hold off on ordering until I have everything installed.
I think I am going to try doing all the work myself. It will be a new experiance for me. I am going to take the oprtunity to drain the oil from the forks and replace with a slightly heavier weight oil.
I think I am going to have to order a few cables to reach the higher bars but I am going to hold off on ordering until I have everything installed.
Hail
Moderator
P.S. The vinyl for the rear seat was received. I sent two pieces off to a friend of ours to do some embroidery on it. I am having them put her name in script on the seat. It will be a lavender colorwith a silver outline.
Something like this but with an even more girly script font.
Something like this but with an even more girly script font.
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va_rider
Wizard
Yes.. do it yourself... we used to use a 7wt Silkolene Oil in the forks... and if you've found the front to be a little soft, you can grab some steel pipe and make yourself some new spacers.... I think we used to go 5/8" longer than stock spacers for a bit better response up front...
Hail
Moderator
Finally starting the work on doing the lowering. Before I could start I had to find a way to lift the rear from the grab bar.
I have a large 6" X 12" beam that runs above my garage. That is the only place feasible to bolt a fish eye to use for hoisting. The fish eye I am using is rated for more than haldf the weight of the bike. It should be fine since I will only use it to raise one end of the bike or the other. Once I got the bolt in I simply used my ratcheted tie downs to lift the rear end.
Once hoisted I got the lower bolt out but realized it will not come out without removing the exhaust pipe. It bumps right in to it.
Now I am stuck because I cannot seem to get the rear header to separate from the from header. All bolts have been removed that mount the exhaust. The only thing still connecting it to the bike is the rear header. I have posted up on Korider.com to see if someone can enlighten me.
I have a large 6" X 12" beam that runs above my garage. That is the only place feasible to bolt a fish eye to use for hoisting. The fish eye I am using is rated for more than haldf the weight of the bike. It should be fine since I will only use it to raise one end of the bike or the other. Once I got the bolt in I simply used my ratcheted tie downs to lift the rear end.
Once hoisted I got the lower bolt out but realized it will not come out without removing the exhaust pipe. It bumps right in to it.
Now I am stuck because I cannot seem to get the rear header to separate from the from header. All bolts have been removed that mount the exhaust. The only thing still connecting it to the bike is the rear header. I have posted up on Korider.com to see if someone can enlighten me.
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Hail
Moderator
Every single bolt that I need to remove is so tight that I feel like I am going to strip it trying to remove it. I am getting so frustrated on this bike today that I just need to take a break for a while and come back later.
screamingbuick
Well-Known Member
Can you just cut the bolt off, and get a new one, then when you replace it put it in from the other side?
Hail
Moderator
Well I finally managed to get everything off. I am just way to impatient with this type of stuff. I always want everything now.
I used a rubber mallet and just kept lightly taping on the allen wrench until i finally got it to break. The was for the left side rear set that, like the exhaust, was blocking getting out one of the bolts that I needed to get out for the lowering link install.
Hail
Moderator
After a movie, a bottle of wine and a little help from my wife, the lowering links are in. I plan to leave the fairings and exhaust off for now. At least until I complete the forks, new steering head, risers and bar. Despite the frustration I was very happy to save $75 for the install. That and I am more familiar with the bike now.
Here is a shot with the new left side lowering link installed. There is one on both sides. If you are not sure which piece it is it is the only shiny part.
These links are much better build quality than stock. The stock ones look like they were pressed. These are nicely machined aluminum.
Here is a shot with the new left side lowering link installed. There is one on both sides. If you are not sure which piece it is it is the only shiny part.
These links are much better build quality than stock. The stock ones look like they were pressed. These are nicely machined aluminum.
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Hail
Moderator
Starting the Sterring Head and Bars
So taking the steering head and clip-ons off is pretty simple. 1 bolt on each side clipping to the forks and one bolt underneath that bolts the clip-ons to the steering head.
I do have a problem though. The spacing between the forks and the steering rod is different between what I bought and the standard GT250R. I will have to buy the lower as well. That or I will need to drill and tap the existing steering head to put the risers and bar on. That, of course, would be my best option. I am no machine shop though and I am afraid I would not get everything straight.
So taking the steering head and clip-ons off is pretty simple. 1 bolt on each side clipping to the forks and one bolt underneath that bolts the clip-ons to the steering head.
I do have a problem though. The spacing between the forks and the steering rod is different between what I bought and the standard GT250R. I will have to buy the lower as well. That or I will need to drill and tap the existing steering head to put the risers and bar on. That, of course, would be my best option. I am no machine shop though and I am afraid I would not get everything straight.
FZ1inTX
Adminstrator
Question Brad? If the distance is different in that direction, what is the difference in distance between the two forks for each? If you buy the lower, you might run the risk of either too much space for the front wheel or not enough space depending on how the forks measure before and after. Bummer though!!
BroHay
Stihl Loves Trees
just and FYI.....this worked for me, but a rattle can offered just enough clearance to raise the rear wheel and then it was a matter of finding the optimum placement to not bind the bolts for the links.
Then it was real handy b/c then I could control the wheel to either cause the can to raise/lower to find the optimum placement to put everything back together again....
found this out last night, when I realized what I though were some "extra" pieces, that actually needed to be installed.
but all is good again....it is only painful the first time.....after that, you only get faster....
Then it was real handy b/c then I could control the wheel to either cause the can to raise/lower to find the optimum placement to put everything back together again....
found this out last night, when I realized what I though were some "extra" pieces, that actually needed to be installed.
but all is good again....it is only painful the first time.....after that, you only get faster....
FZ1riderNY
Moderator
The lowering kit looks great Brad. What I would like to know is what make, model, and size rear tire is that you have? I like the profile on it better than what Richie is running on the Kawasaki. Thanks. I hope you resolve the issues up front.
Hail
Moderator
Distance between the forks is identical. It is just that on the GT250 model (steering head I bought) the forks are about half an inch farther forward than on the GT250R. It is kind of hard to take a photo while holding the new steering head in place but you get the idea. This shot is with it centered over the rod.
As you can imagine this may cause problems with the fairings and turning lock to lock. So..... another post coming up in a sec.....
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