16t vs 17t

PapaGeno21 said:
Yeah see when I am alone, I am fine! When I am with my friends, we are always cruising around 75-90 and up around 80+ its getting REAL annoying. I just feel like I am doing damage to the engine. My buddy on his Busa is only turning 4K doing 75. I am turning like 5500.

And numb is a bad term, they haven't gone numb just feel a little odd after a long ride at high speed. Seems like the vibes bother them.
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The redline is at around 11,700 rpm, so you aren't doing any damage to your engine.

You will be around 500 rpm better off with the 17T front sprocket at normal cruising revs.
 
Missyl1713 said:
I have the 16 T and I'm doing so many highway miles that I think I'm gonna go back to the 17. Less vibration, lower revs, just seems like the right thing to do. I get tired after an hour at 80 mph, it definitely hums.
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Exactly how I feel.

mies said:
I might be getting this completly wrong but with stock gearing going 75 MPH mine runs about 4750 RPM. So 4K RPM is quite low if you ask me for going 75 MPH. MY CBF1000 stock also did about 4750 RPM going 75 MPH.
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I am not looking to be doing 4K at 75. That is just what my friends Busa does. But that bike is a torque MONSTER so it can get away with that kind of gearing plus its designed for top speed. So it needs to be geared for that.

Thanks everyone. I ordered a 17T front sprocket last night. For 30 shipped it is worth the try. If I don't like it I can swap back. Only a 30 min job.
 
I have been running the 16T sprocket for a while now, but didn't notice such a great performance improvement when i switched from the 17T. This was probably because I already had all the other mods done so it wasn't that drastic.

I do know what you mean about the revs on the highway. I have been contemplating going back to the 17T again myself, but haven't been riding much highway. One thing that I do like about the 16T is that it's much easier to take off when you have a passenger and 6th gear is actually useful at highway speeds (I know a simple downshift will do the same with the stock 17T).
 
I´m riding a lot on normal streets and often in the alps (couse the großglockner etc is just 200 kilometers away from me)

does it make sense to install the 16t sprocket? i have it allready at home, but i have to buy the necessary tools for installing it.
the only thing thats nerving me a little are the vibrations around 5,5-6k and if the 16t makes that more worse, than i think i dont wanna have that.
 
Well I have the 17T now sitting in front of me. Driven steel sprocket. Its actually a really cool looking unit. Too bad it will be hidden.

Putting the bad larry on tonight, and then taking it out tomorrow. I may do the calibration for the speedohealer tonight but then again its stock gearing so I may not have to adjust anything. I am going to start with just clearing it and see how far off it is.

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That will make the trip better. But...

:eek5: You should have gotten the OEM with the rubber. Those aftermarket steel sprockets are very noisy! ;)
 
For my riding a 16 would be too small. Our freeways are 75, so you can cruise 80 or so. On the back road I'm 90+ and the 16 is simply too small. Now on the East Coast a 16 maybe fine given the tigher roads and larger traffic volumes.
 
Hellgate said:
For my riding a 16 would be too small. Our freeways are 75, so you can cruise 80 or so. On the back road I'm 90+ and the 16 is simply too small. Now on the East Coast a 16 maybe fine given the tigher roads and larger traffic volumes.
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So once more..... you're suggesting a move to Austin, eh? ;) That is *still* on the table you know! :cheers:
 
NJFZ1 said:
I do know what you mean about the revs on the highway. I have been contemplating going back to the 17T again myself, but haven't been riding much highway. One thing that I do like about the 16T is that it's much easier to take off when you have a passenger and 6th gear is actually useful at highway speeds (I know a simple downshift will do the same with the stock 17T).
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Mine had a 16 on it when I bought it. Life looks OK still, but I'm wanting to go back to 17 i think, as Cruising 80 on the highway I don't like running 6k either... As for the passenger, the PC3 made a HUGE difference in the ease my takeoff.
 
I posted this in another thread:

Now I might get flamed for this - but with posted speeds of 80mph in central/west TX, I actually swapped-in a 42-tooth rear-sprocket which drops my highway rpms a couple-hundred. It just seemed to me that anything above 65mph - I wanted another gear to shift into. (As a side-note - this also corrected my speedo - it's only off by about 1-mph @ 75...)

(This is along with the stock 17-tooth front.)
 
Darth5oh said:
I posted this in another thread:

Now I might get flamed for this - but with posted speeds of 80mph in central/west TX, I actually swapped-in a 42-tooth rear-sprocket which drops my highway rpms a couple-hundred. It just seemed to me that anything above 65mph - I wanted another gear to shift into. (As a side-note - this also corrected my speedo - it's only off by about 1-mph @ 75...)

(This is along with the stock 17-tooth front.)
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You shouldn't get flamed... it's a great idea for the casual rider. Some riders are not aggressive carvers and simply enjoy being "up on two" and if this is what you like, so be it. I cannot say I hadn't given this this thought before (but the carver in me dismissed this quickly...)

As an added note, with the bike corrected, what is your average MPG now?
 
Cobalt said:
You shouldn't get flamed... it's a great idea for the casual rider. Some riders are not aggressive carvers and simply enjoy being "up on two" and if this is what you like, so be it. I cannot say I hadn't given this this thought before (but the carver in me dismissed this quickly...)

As an added note, with the bike corrected, what is your average MPG now?
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Yes – I’d bet my riding-style is more casual than most here… :) The taller gear is no-doubt a detriment on a hole-shot – but once rolling, I think it’s pretty-much a wash on the street/road given all the random corner radiuses…

I have not paid too much attention to mileage lately – but plan on a 300-mile hill-country ride soon so I’ll be checking. I’m trying to wrap my brain around this – but I think while my actual mileage will increase (on the highway) the indicated mileage may actually show less – because for a given number of indicated miles – say 100 – the increased actual speed with the new gear will mean more wind-resistance, which will show-up as less calculated mileage?? Lol…
 
Well I got the 17T installed. I will know tomorrow morning how I feel about it. I cleared the DRD's programming so I will GPS it on the way to work so I will know what correction % I need to add. Then I can do it on break and check it on my way home.
 
Nice! If it will help, I went -6.8% on the SpeedoDRD with the stock gearing and it left me with a 2 mph cushion at 80 mph but nearly dead-on at 50 mph.

Of course, the rear tire profile and wear makes a difference too. ;)
 
That works! I will keep that in mind when I am doing it. Right now is perfect as the rear is about 1/2 worn now, so that is great. That way it will be off a little each end of the spectrum vs like doing it on a brand new tire and having it just get worse and worse as the tire wears.
 
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