v-petn
Well-Known Member
Not sure what flies are... if my bike is stock, just exhaust, filter etc then do I need to do the 2nd tps?
06 TPS adjustment.
- Thread starter Zipedadoo
- Start date
Not sure what flies are... if my bike is stock, just exhaust, filter etc then do I need to do the 2nd tps?
v-petn
Well-Known Member
I installed the fce which has made no difference to the throttle snatch... It's installed correctly, I've trippled checked and the connections are secure... I just checked and the tps is set to 15... could this be the problem with the throttle snatch which is why the fce is not working?
FZ1inTX
Adminstrator
Flies are those silver discs you see on top of the intake. In the video above, those are modded flies because they do not fill the entire opening and are cut down to about 38mm diameter. You can see why moving the second TPS module would be fruitless because it controls the open/closing of those plates.
You should adjust the second TPS if your flies are stock. There's no way to know if you have it spot on but here is my suggestion.
- Mark the first TPS location
- Adjust TPS.
- After final tightening, mark TPS location again.
- Mark secondary TPS.
- Measure first TPS marks and mark second TPS housing only at new location
- Move TPS mark to new mark on housing and tighten.
This will be about as accurate as you can get it without a dash readout available for the secondary. Enjoy the ride!
v-petn
Well-Known Member
Cool makes sense... thanks for your help
v-petn
Well-Known Member
Hi cobalt,
Do you think the tps set at 15 would cause the snatch/jerk and even with the fce would make no difference?
Do you think the tps set at 15 would cause the snatch/jerk and even with the fce would make no difference?
FZ1inTX
Adminstrator
No. The FCE convinces the ECU to never cut the fuel at all and at 15, the bike is in an acceptable range. I believe that setting it to 18 will help. Actually, since the FCE also advances the opening of the flies, you may not need to adjust the secondary TPS since the FCE opens them earlier. Just a thought.
Mark, adjust and mark again the TPS and try it. If it's not a lot better, try the secondary. If it's no change, you can either leave them or, since they are marked, move them back if you'd like. Worth a shot!
v-petn
Well-Known Member
ok thanks... I'll do that... gonna get the G2 throttle tamer as well... hopefully that will reduce or get rid of the snatch
TRM
Member
Not trying to discourage you, v-petn, but there may be something else going on with some bikes that still exhibit a hesitation in throttle application, especially if an FCE has already been installed. It's very likely the G2 Throttle Tamer won't help much since it still has no real affect on fuel cut from a fully closed throttle position. It does help hand control of small low throttle adjustments and thus power application to the rear wheel that can help riders accelerate more smoothly. It made it easier for me to ride, but if I ham fist the bike at higher revs it WILL snatch hard!
The primary TPS adjustment does need to be set to the higher end of its idle spec., but there may be other things going on.
-Roger
keithkrieg
Member
I've only had my FZ1 for about a month and a half, Could someone explain this, "snatch?" (Not the first time I've asked that, hehe)
TRM
Member
It's the harsh hesitation felt when rolling on the throttle from a fully closed position. This was most noted on the 06 FZ1's, but any second gen bike might be affected due to the fact that they all have a "fuel cut" mapped into their ECU's from the factory for emissions requirements. The snatch or hesitation is mostly noticeable when engine RPM's are mid to upper levels. Hacking the throttle from closed to open at high revs, especially while negotiating a hard lean, will normally induce a 9 or 10 on the seat pucker factor.
This issue was addressed early on by IVAN in the development of his FCE (Fuel Cut Eliminator). As much as we can appreciate his efforts there are a few owners, like myself, who have adapted other means of dealing with the problem, as well as a riding style that doesn't reproduce the harsh throttle application, or who feel that it is just not bothersome enough to warrant a major modification.
The latest trend is to have the ECU re-flashed to eliminate the fuel cut, as well as re-mapping the fuel and ignition to your bike's specific mods, however as with many mods other mods this flash is still a bit pricey, and I'd say still somewhat in the testing stages.
I hope this helps.
-Roger
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keithkrieg
Member
More than helpful! WOW!
So here's my experience: I have an '06 and it seems to me that from a complete stop that it takes more throttle to get going than my 600. I upgraded from an '03 R6 which was standard gearing. (16/48 if I remember correctly) The FZ1 seems to bog if I'm as easy on the throttle from a dead stop as I was on the R6. Is this the issue you fine sirs are addressing here?
I just checked and I'm set to 16.
So here's my experience: I have an '06 and it seems to me that from a complete stop that it takes more throttle to get going than my 600. I upgraded from an '03 R6 which was standard gearing. (16/48 if I remember correctly) The FZ1 seems to bog if I'm as easy on the throttle from a dead stop as I was on the R6. Is this the issue you fine sirs are addressing here?
I just checked and I'm set to 16.
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v-petn
Well-Known Member
It's not hesitation, it's a surge of power that jolts me... even at high revs, if I apply the throttle gently then no surge... so i'm hoping the G2 might help along with the tps
I'll give you an example... If I', in 2nd gear and rev to 10,000rpm then close the throttle and reapply say 1/4 turn of the throttle quickly it jolts... if I do it slowly then it's not that bad
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v-petn
Well-Known Member
yeah I noticed that too... I ad 03 R6 and Daytona 675 both of which the power came with ease in low revs