03 Bee on the dyno!

Nice job Len. I saw the video just now. I thought I saw some smoke by the end of the run. Was that tire smoke???

Yes I noticed that as well but it wasn't tire smoke it was oil.....I noticed it was a little overfull on oil so I'm thinking it's sucking it past the rings or guides on decel.....It has 23,000 miles on it which is nothing for a Yamaha but I have no idea on the history except it is a US bike out of MO. The oil looks clean and I'm not sure what's in it but I'm going to change it.
 
I think its impressive especially the torque. Supposedly a gen2 makes around 128 129 in stock form. Mine has made around 146 with some cash throw at it.

Well unless you dyno both on the same dyno it's hard to do an accurate comparison since there will be dyno to dyno variations, especially if they are different brands.

Bone stock Gen I is usually a few peak HP shy of the Gen II , but has more mid-range torque. They are actually pretty evenly matched when it comes to power...
 
Well unless you dyno both on the same dyno it's hard to do an accurate comparison since there will be dyno to dyno variations, especially if they are different brands.

Bone stock Gen I is usually a few peak HP shy of the Gen II , but has more mid-range torque. They are actually pretty evenly matched when it comes to power...

So true to our experiance. Ours is a "Mustang" dyno and compared to the popular Dynojet they produce very conservitive numbers......Add 12% to mustang figures is what we have been told by Mustang Dyno themselves is a close conversion to a Dynojet. We have added this in on the correction factor with all our tests in the last 4 years. Before this too often we had dissapointed customers wether they were on a Dynojet before or comparing numbers with other similar combo's.....This is why I post the uncorrected #'s as well......As you suggest it is best to use the same dyno when you make changes or comparing one vehicle to another... Keep in mind the dyno has a built in weather station an it makes correction for temperature and air pressure as well.
 
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Today was and interesting dyno secession. We made 3 more pulls , 1st with the K&N installed and air box modded [ it actually lost 1.5 hp ] 2nd we pulled the can off and [it was plently loud] picked up 3 hp to 140, and the 3rd run we drained the old fuel and added a gallon of AV gas ....yes that's right 100LL octane curtousy of "Pilot Bob" the guy with the 06 we'll be testing this Saturday[ he is a member here] .......The bee pulled 143hp!

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As I stated in the previous post after we had installed the K&N we lost 1.5 hp and noticed the A/F ratio richened from 12.6 down to 12.2......I thought what the hell is going on because if anything the opposite should have happened!....I pulled the lid of the air box and got looking at the K&N filter and compared it to the stock piece and noticed the K&N is about 1/4" shorter and then it came to me what was happening....The snorkel coming down off the air box lid was too close to the bottom of the filter ristricting the air flow.......Moral of the story never use a K&N without trimming the Snorkel.....Anyways after correcting this we ran it up again and the A/F ratio came around perfectly and hovered between 12.8 and 13.2 and picked up what we had lost and some!
 
So true to our experiance. Ours is a "Mustang" dyno and compared to the popular Dynojet they produce very conservitive numbers......Add 12% to mustang figures is what we have been told by Mustang Dyno themselves is a close conversion to a Dynojet. We have added this in on the correction factor with all our tests in the last 4 years. Before this too often we had dissapointed customers wether they were on a Dynojet before or comparing numbers with other similar combo's.....This is why I post the uncorrected #'s as well......As you suggest it is best to use the same dyno when you make changes or comparing one vehicle to another... Keep in mind the dyno has a built in weather station an it makes correction for temperature and air pressure as well.

And Factory Pro is 15% to 17% below DynoJet too funny.
 
After reading what seems like a thousand threads I can't believe in this day in age how inaccurate of a science dynoing is. I guess dyno manufactures are like weathermen.
 
After reading what seems like a thousand threads I can't believe in this day in age how inaccurate of a science dynoing is. I guess dyno manufactures are like weathermen.

It's those darn correction factored numbers that people focus on instead of SAE uncorrected numbers that gets people cranked...........Moral of story is from one dyno to the next don't treat the numbers as a conclusive comparison but stick to using a given dyno as a conclusive measuring stick and focus on the SAE uncorrected instead of the " weatherman " corrected numbers :D
 
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As I stated in the previous post after we had installed the K&N we lost 1.5 hp and noticed the A/F ratio richened from 12.6 down to 12.2......I thought what the hell is going on because if anything the opposite should have happened!....I pulled the lid of the air box and got looking at the K&N filter and compared it to the stock piece and noticed the K&N is about 1/4" shorter and then it came to me what was happening....The snorkel coming down off the air box lid was too close to the bottom of the filter ristricting the air flow.......Moral of the story never use a K&N without trimming the Snorkel.....Anyways after correcting this we ran it up again and the A/F ratio came around perfectly and hovered between 12.8 and 13.2 and picked up what we had lost and some!

After searching through hundreds of posts here and Yamaha FZ1 Owners Association (FZ1OA), I never saw hard data backing that up before. I was just getting ready to install my carbs with the K&N without modifying the airbox and now I won't without at least modifying the snorkel. Thanks to your observations! Did you drill a 1.5 inch hole through the lid also or just cut back the snorkel?
 
I'm not sure with factory pro, but I know removing part of the snorkel is standard procedure with Ivan's kit.

For all you Gen 2 owners saying the Gen I has no power......:stirpot:
 
After searching through hundreds of posts here and Yamaha FZ1 Owners Association (FZ1OA), I never saw hard data backing that up before. I was just getting ready to install my carbs with the K&N without modifying the airbox and now I won't without at least modifying the snorkel. Thanks to your observations! Did you drill a 1.5 inch hole through the lid also or just cut back the snorkel?

For the first test we dilled the hole in the air box lid cover only and installed the K&N .....that's when we lost 1.5hp....But what I failed to mention for the second test was as well as cutting off the snorkle on the inside of the lid I also drilled the rivits on the lid cover and removed it completely so there was actually 2 modifications done for the second test....The hole I had drilled in the lid cover was a 2" but when I got looking at this I decided to remove the cover completely because it's pretty tight under there and I figured removing it altogether would allow the air to have a smoother flow into the lid......When I cut the bottom off the lids snorkle I cut all the straight section off and left the radius on the entry of the lid

Thankyou all for your kind comments and if you think of something else you would like us to try by all means suggest it and we'll try to make it happen......The Gen1 was completely stock when we started and the Gen2 had a power comander and a slip-on and obviously we'd like to continue with the very basic mods as we have but progress with the most inexpensive tweaks in search of some gains.:D
 
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