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Frame Slider Install Question

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sirupate

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Prolly stupid easy, but gonna ask anyway. Ordered some CF look delrin frame sliders for my 2012 FZ1. I know you only install one side at a time. I think you are supposed to torque them properly...33lb./ft. is what I have seen.

I have a torque wrench, but the frame sliders are allen bolts. I have t-handle allen wrenches, but sort of unsure how to utilize the torque wrench with them. Is the torque all that important as long as I don't "gorilla" torque them? Or, is there some sort of adaptor for the torque wrench to use allen-type "sockets"? Thanks,

Jeff
 
Thanks. That was stupid simple. Guess I need to visit Sears Hardware this week. I assume the allen sockets will come in handy for other bike chores?
 
Make sure you frame sliders are a quality part. Some of the cheap frame sliders only say to torque to 25ft/lbs but the Yamaha spec is 33ft/lbs. Torque a cheap slider to 33 and the plastic splits and the slider falls off.
 
Use blue loctite on those bolts. You don't want those coming out! (Unless you want them out)

t_lkr_blue.png



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Ruggybuggy said:
Make sure you frame sliders are a quality part. Some of the cheap frame sliders only say to torque to 25ft/lbs but the Yamaha spec is 33ft/lbs. Torque a cheap slider to 33 and the plastic splits and the slider falls off.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I've got PSR brand. But no idea on quality of the slider. Guess I should have gone with Graves. I knew about using blue loctite and have some.
 
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Ruggybuggy said:
Make sure you frame sliders are a quality part. Some of the cheap frame sliders only say to torque to 25ft/lbs but the Yamaha spec is 33ft/lbs. Torque a cheap slider to 33 and the plastic splits and the slider falls off.
Click to expand...

The Shoguns have an alloy cylinder that the bolt passes through so it doesn't deform the delrin.
 
Mine have an insert as well, I just went, AHhhhhhhhhhh that should be good.Checked em the other day, still good. Go Harbor Frieght for them, your not running a shop. For as many times as your going to use them you can get set both MM and American for les than $20, FYI.
 
I saw where people put lock-tite on them also but the original bolts are lubed? plus the manufacturer of the OES ones I got said to grease or oil them. I would not lock-tite them into place. I have checked them with my Snap-on torque wrench several times and they have not loosened up JMO
 
2stangs69-91 said:
I saw where people put lock-tite on them also but the original bolts are lubed? plus the manufacturer of the OES ones I got said to grease or oil them. I would not lock-tite them into place. I have checked them with my Snap-on torque wrench several times and they have not loosened up JMO
Click to expand...

Agreed, I would use a heat resistant anti-seize compound rather than blue Loctite. We use the blue loctite all the time in RC racing and use heat like from a hair dryer to loosen the loctite.
 
Ruggybuggy said:
Make sure you frame sliders are a quality part. Some of the cheap frame sliders only say to torque to 25ft/lbs but the Yamaha spec is 33ft/lbs. Torque a cheap slider to 33 and the plastic splits and the slider falls off.
Click to expand...

If you had a set of sliders crack it either wasnt delrin or you gorilla torqued them down. I have yet to see delrin crack. I have taken a 1" dia piece of it had hit a steel door as hard as I could and it didnt do anything to it.
 
Sebastian F7 said:
If you had a set of sliders crack it either wasnt delrin or you gorilla torqued them down. I have yet to see delrin crack. I have taken a 1" dia piece of it had hit a steel door as hard as I could and it didnt do anything to it.
Click to expand...

Never said I had my sliders crack. Mine have a metal body with delrin caps that screw on the ends. Some of the cheaper slider from China state made from delrin but are plastic and say to torque only to 25 not the reqired 33. Most of the better sliders have a steel insert or metal body.
 
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