• Welcome to the Yamaha FZ1 Forums. Member registration disables ads and allows you to post and share. Register Here.

Break-in period

gtbigup01

Wizard
Joined
Apr 2, 2010
Messages
618
Location
Columbus, GA
Visit site
Well I'm half way there, 587 miles on the clock from my saturday purchase, the remaining 13 miles will be going back to the dealer for my first service, then another 400 miles before i can have some real fun. I've been following the break-in instructions to the T, not going over 6000RPM etc, it's hard but I want to do this right. Man this bike is a blast and that's just keeping it below 85mph, I can just imagine how things will be after the full 1000 mile break in. oh yeah it's an 07, guess i need a sig pic
 
I've exercised the following break in intervals. First 200km not above 4000rpm. next 200km each time take it up (but not for hours) another 1000rpm.
By the time I got 1000km, I've passed trough each rpm up to 9000rpm. Then at 1000km my first service, and the oil was clean (ie no metal residu)...Then it was set loose at 150hp (see also my video on how to switch between 100hp and 150hp http://www.998cc.org/forum/gen-ii-tech/651-150hp-100hp.html)
 
Good for you, it's sort of hard to avoid the temptation to get on it now and then, but in the end you'll know that you'v done everything to provide for longevity and proper break-in meshing of the all-new internal parts. I'v finally gotten over the need to go fast everywhere I ride, accelerating hard and the like. It's kind of like setting on a rocket you know can blow off anybody, so why advertise, just cruise with a grin, 'knowing'. And see the countryside and what treasures might be hidden.
 
Please keep in mind that the manual doesn't say to not go over 6k. What is states is no "extended" time above 6K. ;) I went well over 6k on my breakin but never to redline and never for more than a few seconds at a time.

I follow this method and have done so for years with bikes, atv's etc... Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power


On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.

Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!

The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more
and run it through the gears !

Be Safe On The Street !
Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process.
 
Synth

I still can't understand why the dealer suggests that syth wait until 2500 miles. It seems to me after that 600 mile change your good to go.
I didn't baby mine too much. I didn't sustain high RPMs but there are several secret WOT roads in the Horse Heaven Hills long enough to make 150+ mph runs. I made several 120 to 135 mph runs winding slowly through the gears then a nice cool down over several weeks. I consider it "broke in". I still want to pull the clutch pack to see if the disks are getting enough or any oil. My FJR's were dry at 600 miles. The FJR and FZ1 clutch pack location is similar being above the sump and not sitting in oil. Same years....Just thinking.

One other point. The throttlebodies are notorious for needing sync'd from the factory. I had the mechanic from Desert Power Sports out of Prosser WA (one of the top FJR dealers in the US and one of the best FJR and FI induction mechanics around) adjust my FJR throttlebodies and the differance was huge!! Fuel mileage and smooth roll on power. I have an apointment for the FZ next! 100 bucks!
Set your sag.
 
Last edited:
All of the 4 cylinders I have owned needed a sync regardless. But, what I've learned from others is to sync at your cruising speed RPM after syncing at a warm idle. Then she gets VERY smooth in the RPM range you spend most of your time at. It just made sense to me and I'm happy that I've followed that. :D

As for the oil? I ran the bike as above for the ride from the dealer and took a long way back to the house. Got back after purchase and parked with 75 miles on the clock. Dumped the stock oil, replaced the filter and loaded her up with Rotella. :D With the factory specs and very tight tolerances Yamaha builds a new engine spec'd to, the old ways are gone.

I mean, if Corvettes, BMWs, and almost all MotoGP built and NASCAR built engines START OUT with synthetic, why can't we switch as soon as possible too?
 
Please keep in mind that the manual doesn't say to not go over 6k. What is states is no "extended" time above 6K. ;) I went well over 6k on my breakin but never to redline and never for more than a few seconds at a time.

I follow this method and have done so for years with bikes, atv's etc... Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

I'm with Eric and Motoman, ditch the manual and break the bike in. A dyno session is good way to break in too, albeit with an operator who knows what they're doing.
 
I still can't understand why the dealer suggests that syth wait until 2500 miles. It seems to me after that 600 mile change your good to go.
I didn't baby mine too much. I didn't sustain high RPMs but there are several secret WOT roads in the Horse Heaven Hills long enough to make 150+ mph runs. I made several 120 to 135 mph runs winding slowly through the gears then a nice cool down over several weeks. I consider it "broke in". I still want to pull the clutch pack to see if the disks are getting enough or any oil. My FJR's were dry at 600 miles. The FJR and FZ1 clutch pack location is similar being above the sump and not sitting in oil. Same years....Just thinking.

One other point. The throttlebodies are notorious for needing sync'd from the factory. I had the mechanic from Desert Power Sports out of Prosser WA (one of the top FJR dealers in the US and one of the best FJR and FI induction mechanics around) adjust my FJR throttlebodies and the differance was huge!! Fuel mileage and smooth roll on power. I have an apointment for the FZ next! 100 bucks!
Set your sag.

It's not the dealership suggestion I'm following, it the folks that manufactured the bike. I'll stick it out for the other 400 miles, that should only take 3-4 days lol, then it's on.
 
Good for you, it's sort of hard to avoid the temptation to get on it now and then, but in the end you'll know that you'v done everything to provide for longevity and proper break-in meshing of the all-new internal parts. I'v finally gotten over the need to go fast everywhere I ride, accelerating hard and the like. It's kind of like setting on a rocket you know can blow off anybody, so why advertise, just cruise with a grin, 'knowing'. And see the countryside and what treasures might be hidden.

Man after riding my cruiser for 3 yrs. It seems like I go fast everywhere I go, complete oposite from you. Guess I'll get over it eventually too, but for now speed it is LOL
 
Please keep in mind that the manual doesn't say to not go over 6k. What is states is no "extended" time above 6K. ;) I went well over 6k on my breakin but never to redline and never for more than a few seconds at a time.

I follow this method and have done so for years with bikes, atv's etc... Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

Motoman says to change the oil AND filter after 30 miles or so. I can't help wonder why change the filter. Isn't the filter supposed to, uh, FILTER - gather particles from the oil ? Especially a fresh filter ..
 
I remember that MotoMan site going around ten years ago. It's still just as hilarious and in 10 years time it hasn't gained any credibility. Looks like he's added his 'top 1000 music videos of all time'. :doh2:
 
Last edited:
I'm sure his methods work great but I'll never know for myself. :wilynily:

I just can't take his information seriously. Anyone who fills their website with spinning logos and sparkles and giant, bold text and spreads their message by slagging other people isn't really worth listening to, IMO. It's just a bunch of sensationalist, 'in your face' stuff. He's got all these 'secrets THEY don't want you to know' and all this 'controversial' new age knowledge that will shut 'the man' down.

Now the music videos just add another degree of funny.
 
Last edited:
I'm sure his methods work great but I'll never know for myself. :wilynily:

I just can't take his information seriously. Anyone who fills their website with spinning logos and sparkles and giant, bold text and spreads their message by slagging other people isn't really worth listening to, IMO. ...

I understand Your point of view, and I had the same initial reaction. Then I thought "what does a mechanic / workshop CNC guy knew about web design in back in 2003 ?

The page is a Web 0.2 (my own definition) page, the second generation web design, black background and spinning stuff with buttons with red borders. I've done a couple of sites like that back in the nineties when a 56k USRobotics modem was "the shit" .

Yes, it does undermine his credibility to have all that shit on the page...
 
I'm sure his methods work great but I'll never know for myself. :wilynily:

I just can't take his information seriously. Anyone who fills their website with spinning logos and sparkles and giant, bold text and spreads their message by slagging other people isn't really worth listening to, IMO. It's just a bunch of sensationalist, 'in your face' stuff. He's got all these 'secrets THEY don't want you to know' and all this 'controversial' new age knowledge that will shut 'the man' down.

Now the music videos just add another degree of funny.

Ferrari, Lambo, AMG, the corvette factory...all put their engines on the dyno for their first start and do this (after its warmed up of course):

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cSPM1KxONAk]AMG 5.5-Liter V8 Biturbo on Test Bench - YouTube[/ame]


You won't find a manual telling you to warm it up and them whomp on it...If something is going to break it will break. But a "soft" break in can minimize the severity, and thus, the repair cost. The manufacturers don't care if you're engine has major oil consumption. In fact--the new subaru impreza 2.0's have a problem with that. They just tell them to get the oil changed faster before the light comes on.
 
I understand Your point of view, and I had the same initial reaction. Then I thought "what does a mechanic / workshop CNC guy knew about web design in back in 2003 ?

The page is a Web 0.2 (my own definition) page, the second generation web design, black background and spinning stuff with buttons with red borders. I've done a couple of sites like that back in the nineties when a 56k USRobotics modem was "the shit" .

Yes, it does undermine his credibility to have all that shit on the page...

Exactly my point of view. Not that his methods are wrong but I can't be bothered to listen to someone that shares their information in that way
 
I understand Your point of view, and I had the same initial reaction. Then I thought "what does a mechanic / workshop CNC guy knew about web design in back in 2003 ?

The page is a Web 0.2 (my own definition) page, the second generation web design, black background and spinning stuff with buttons with red borders. I've done a couple of sites like that back in the nineties when a 56k USRobotics modem was "the shit" .

Yes, it does undermine his credibility to have all that shit on the page...

Wow. So if you read the periodic table of elements in an old text book from the 1880's does that mean you think is if wrong?

Next time I won't post anything and you can continue to live on ignorance.


Sent from my LG-P925 using Tapatalk 2
 
i love that this thread was 2 years old and was bumped and the convo just continued...made me lol..

btw riding the bike hard for a break in period makes the most power. seen it on hundreds of bikes on the dyno.
 
Wow. So if you read the periodic table of elements in an old text book from the 1880's does that mean you think is if wrong?

Next time I won't post anything and you can continue to live on ignorance.
Sent from my LG-P925 using Tapatalk 2

You misunderstand me. What I'm saying is that his advice makes sense to me, but some people, like Dustin, judge the book by its cover also, and I was objectively analyzing the design of the page.

Why I'm bumping an old thread is because I bought a new bike and I'm preparing to break it in, and I'm leaning towards motomans method, and I'm just wondering whether an oil filter change after 30 miles is really necessary. No need to be rude or aggressive.
 
Back
Top