The Beast Mod Thread

Ssky0078

Ssky0078

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Well, I got the rest of my parts to start my modifications on my bike.

As you know I got my 2009 Yamaha Fz1 Granite Gray/Raven and within 24 hours, ran her off the road. Rather than bother to deal with insurance and be without a motorcycle again, I decided to go Streetfighter with The Beast.

I ordered the following things and will be installing them over the next couple of days. This is my daily transportation so I can't be without her for long.

-FZ1N Euro naked conversion kit from partshark (I've ordered a spare wire harness to butcher and keep the stock one if I ever turn it back)
-Super White Xenon H4 bulb
-Hel SS Braided Brake Lines in Carbon with Black fittings
-Chinese Roll a Click Levers (not sure I'm gonna keep these, but fit the budget for now)
-Fz8 Clutch Perch and Master Cylinder - Fz8 mirrors
-Motodynamic LED taillight with integrated sequential turn signals.
-Ebay FZ1 tail tidy (with LED turn signals)
-Shogun Frame Sliders, Swing Arm Spools, Front Fork Sliders

A few questions if you guys can help
1. Did anybody keep the Euro headlight harness plug or did they butcher it for the running lights and use the stock harness?

2. Any gremlins I should look out for?

BTW I forgot to submit this thread before I got to work, DERP, about 3 hours ago. It tooke me about 3 hours to gets the headlight mounted. I also swapped out for the shorty levers and readjusted the clutch perch for smoother movement.

I'm gonna take the bike into the shop and let them do the Hel lines. I don't want to put my life at risk over my mechanical skill. BTW, does anyone have an opinion on vacuum systems that the shop use and if they are harmful to the brake systems?
 
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I ordered a standard split connector from autodynamic on ebay. I got the clear motodynamic tailight. I plan on both running the sequential turn signals and the turn signals from the tail tidy for dual lighting. My biggest fear is getting tagged from behind while turning or at stop light.

Hail, thanks for yor install thread, I read through it last night and will tackle this aspect of my project tonight. It was midnight when I finished the headlight.
 
I don't know if it's possible but I'm in love all over again. I got the headlight mounted last night (a little rough but workable for now) and the new levers.

I like the "shorty" levers a lot as it just feels cleaner. I especially like the brake, but am not to sold on the clutch side yet. The clutch lever difference is throwing off my timing on shifts and I'm having to readjust.

I didn't know what to do with the wiring yet, but I have an idea, stay tuned.

View attachment 12972View attachment 12973

Stay tuned, tailight and FE tonight.
 
Quick question.

I really don't like the look of the factory reflectors on the side of the bike. I agree they are a wonderful safety equipment piece, but I was wondering if I could remove them and possibly just do black/gold reflective rim tape.

Is it legal to not have them.
 
Another question

Has anyone tried using heat wrap on the header pipes? Honestly it's the only thing I like about HD's. I'm going for a blacked/grayed out streetfighter look and just think it would be one of the final things to finish up the project.

Thanks in advance for any helpful thoughts.
 
Ssky0078 said:
Quick question.

I really don't like the look of the factory reflectors on the side of the bike. I agree they are a wonderful safety equipment piece, but I was wondering if I could remove them and possibly just do black/gold reflective rim tape.

Is it legal to not have them.
Click to expand...

I took them off my bike no big deal.

The heat tape for the headers would be all looks. It's not close enough to parts or body parts to need it. It might give it a cool look though. It's a real pain the the buns to take the stuff off though once its on. So if you do it you are kinda stuck with it.
 
ethandf06 said:
I took them off my bike no big deal.

The heat tape for the headers would be all looks. It's not close enough to parts or body parts to need it. It might give it a cool look though. It's a real pain the the buns to take the stuff off though once its on. So if you do it you are kinda stuck with it.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I was aware that it was a pain to take off. Worse case scenario I buy that Akrapovic full system for $800 if I hate it. I was just thinking about doing it for looks. I'm ordering a pipe this weekend. I can't stand the stock one now that everything is coming together. It almsot makes me mad that Yamaha did that ugly piece of work on such a great bike.
 
I found out the AZ rules for bike setup from the motorcycletraining.com the local MSF group.

Safety Equipment
• Arizona law requires operators
and passengers under 18 to wear
a helmet that is safely secured.(note it is only under 18, not everybody, very stupid rule)
• You are encouraged to use your
headlight, on high beams, during
the daylight hours to maximize
your visibility. You may use a
modulating headlight during the
day, if the light modulates at least
200 cycles per minute.
• You must have at least one horn
capable of emitting sound for at
least 200 feet.
• A minimum of one rearview
mirror is required.
• Riders are encouraged to equip
the motorcycle with both hand
and foot brakes, but Arizona law
requires at least one brake.
• Fuel tanks must be properly
closed by a cap or cover.
• Motorcycle operators are required
to wear protective glasses,
goggles or a transparent face
shield, unless the motorcycle
is equipped with a protective
windshield. Windscreens on
sport-style motorcycles are not
considered protective windshields.
• Seat and footrests are required
for motorcycle operators. Seat,
footrests and handrails are
required for the passenger.
Passengers must be able to rest
their feet on the foot pegs.
• Handlebars must be positioned
so that the hands of the operator
are not above the operator's
shoulder height, when the
operator is sitting astride the seat
and the operator's hands are on
the handlebar grip.

I hope this helps at least the AZ riders.
 
Ssky0078 said:
I don't know if it's possible but I'm in love all over again. I got the headlight mounted last night (a little rough but workable for now) and the new levers.

I like the "shorty" levers a lot as it just feels cleaner. I especially like the brake, but am not to sold on the clutch side yet. The clutch lever difference is throwing off my timing on shifts and I'm having to readjust.

I didn't know what to do with the wiring yet, but I have an idea, stay tuned.

View attachment 12972View attachment 12973

Stay tuned, tailight and FE tonight.
Click to expand...


Try moving your brackets closer to the end of the handlebars on the clutch side. It may make the feel of the Shorty Lever better. On my GenI I was running GenII bars and it felt a whole lot better when the mount was just about touching the handlebar end as shown in this old pic I found........

IMG_0028-1.jpg


It looks like you still have a half inch of space that you can move. If you still don't like it you can move it back.
 
I did try that last night when I was setting up. I want to just be able to 2 finger the clutch and it just seems to be the length of my fingers and how far apart they sit that is the issue. I'm sure I'll change it around some more. I never knew working and adjusting bike parts was so easy. Also, don't worry guys I safety check everything before I go for a ride.
 
Damn I love the naked look !! It's a bad thing they never offered it in North America... And I definitely need one of those LED taillights for added visibility.

Keep up the good work!
 
Zak said:
Damn I love the naked look !! It's a bad thing they never offered it in North America... And I definitely need one of those LED taillights for added visibility.

Keep up the good work!
Click to expand...

I'm so in love with it. I like it better than the fairing. I'll let you know how touring goes after this weekend. Planning on an approximate 250 mile ride. I'm 6'4" and actually the naked gives me an almost more comfortable ride (thanks Dustin, your comments on this topic before helped sway me). The wind is evenly distributed and I can reposition just right most of the time. Before with the fairing it would hit me with a concentrated blast in the chest and up under my helmet turning me into a bobble head. If I tucked under the wind in the fairing I find I would go a little too fast as the weight of my arm would pull on the throttle :bs:.

Now all I have to do is save up for the C3 helmet and I'll be all set.
 
Has anyone plastidipped their rear peg hangers? Has anyone plastidipped the rearsets?

I really want to black those guys out, as they stand out like a sore thumb now.

Any ideas or help would be appreciated. I looked at other rearsets but I don't want to drop another $700 on the bike just yet. I've thought about removing the hangers all together but on the off chance I have to have a passenger (and I say have to meaning I'd have to save someones life by picking them up in the desert type of have to).
 
Ssky0078 said:
Has anyone plastidipped their rear peg hangers? Has anyone plastidipped the rearsets?

I really want to black those guys out, as they stand out like a sore thumb now.

Any ideas or help would be appreciated. I looked at other rearsets but I don't want to drop another $700 on the bike just yet. I've thought about removing the hangers all together but on the off chance I have to have a passenger (and I say have to meaning I'd have to save someones life by picking them up in the desert type of have to).
Click to expand...

Plastidip NO on rearsets powder coating YES. P/D My work on rear pegs hangers tho.
also with led signals you will need <LED Turn Signal Flash Rate Relay>
LED Turn Signal Flash Rate Relay YZF R1 R6 FZ1 FZ6 FZ8 | eBay
good job Doc!
 
eurocats said:
Plastidip NO on rearsets powder coating YES. P/D My work on rear pegs hangers tho.
also with led signals you will need <LED Turn Signal Flash Rate Relay>
LED Turn Signal Flash Rate Relay YZF R1 R6 FZ1 FZ6 FZ8 | eBay
good job Doc!
Click to expand...

Where would I go to get the powdercoat done? I'm in Phoenix/Scottsdale if anyone knows of a location.

I saw somebody that may have been on the Fz8 site that had done the plasti-dip on their hangers, it looked good.

Will the lights short out or break if I dont' use the relay right away? I'm kind of getting antsy to finish up the tailight, tail tidy turn signals and put the front turn signals on later.
 
Here is the break down for the Fz1n Euro Headlight Conversion kit.

Remove all the old hardware.
1. Remove windshield and wrap up in foam or bubble wrap
2. Remove inner fairing cowls.
3. Remove mirrors (2 bolts on each, and watch out for the SS inner collar)
4. Remove the turn signals (remove the plastic clips) (I marked my right side with red electrical tape and taped to the right headlight plug, this is helpful later)
5. Remove fairings (be mindful to detach the wiring harness from the inside of the fairing)
6. Remove the headlights (mark the right and left)
7. Remove the Speedo Gauge Cluster (you don’t have to remove from wiring harness)
8. Remove the Fairing Stay
9. Remove the steel wire brackets on left and right (I had to snip the left side ones to get off)


Prep of remaining parts
1. Remove the horn (either completely or let hang)
2. Remove the bolt holding the y joint for the front brakes
3. Remove the clutch cable
4. Remove the headlight/turn signal instrument mount from the handlebar
5. Optional: Remove the brake lines (Ideally you’d swap for SS lines, the factory line is zip tied to the fork and interferes with the new fairing stay)


Prep of the Headlight kit
1. On the new fairing stay use 3 of the rubber grommets to put in the top rings that will mount the Speedo cluster
2. Use the other 4 rubber grommets on the left and right naked fairing brackets
3. Mount the left and right fairing brackets on to the back of the headlight by threading the posts through the rubber grommet. (the end with the turn signal hole goes to the top or the squared end of the headlight)
4. Use the silver Phillips screws with washers to screw down the headlight to the left and right fairing.
5. I got rid of the euro harness, if you keep it then you would use the black screws to mount the two metal brackets that hold the plugs for the turn signals.
6. Mount the turn signals that you’ll be using and prep the wires for easy plug in.
7. I also swapped the halogen H4 for a xenon super white bulb while this was off. I kind of wish I went with a PIAA or an HID setup. The light from the single xenon is good about the same as the single headlight (pre-BD43 dual headlight mod) but I could do with a little more.


Install of new stuff.
1. Note: there is a lot of variability to how to run the wires, the only one I was really concerned about was the clutch cable, I wanted to make sure that had the easiest travel, I have noticed that there is some change in play at full turn right, but going straight is no problem. I am going to see if I can take the Euro harness to a connector fabricator shop and see if I can get a custom made setup to use it and the brow lights.

2. Put on new fairing stay (bracket). The throttle cables and brake line goes into a grove on the right side of the bracket (left when looking at it). The left side is trickier, ideally you would run both the clutch cable and headlight/turn signal line through the bracket, I just pushed the lighting wire out of the way and ran the clutch cable through the bracket. Reattach your clutch cable and lighting wire harness and if it allows for full movement I figured ok.

3. I re-used the 8mm bolts that were holding the steel wire brackets in place to mount the top half of the new fairing stay

4. I used the black 8mm bolts that came with the kit on the lower bracket. *** note be sure to put the fairing stay to the triple and then the horn over the top otherwise the anglfe of light will be way screwed up.*** I installed the horn side first (right side while looking at it) and then the other side (left side looking at it) and finally remounted the brake line bolt (for now, I’m getting SS lines installed next week when I get my new Master cylinder. **** if you keep the factory brake lines, odds are it will interfere with the right side of the new fairing bracket. ***

5. Check and make sure everything is secure (I did not use lock-tite but am considering it and would appreciate opinions)

6. Now you are ready for the Speedo Cluster. Fit it through the rubber grommets and secure with the Phillips screw with washer. There is a groove on the left (facing the headlight) the is for running the speedo wiring harness through.

7. Fit the speedo cover to the back of the speedo and secure using the security bolts (5/32 hex bolts, short ones)

8. Now you are ready for the headlight **** If using the original wiring harness Yamaha Part Number: 3C3-84359-10-00 (Partshark $90) either headlight plug will work, I think I used the right because it brought the right side turn signal closer to the opening on the naked fairing bracket for the turn signal.**** plug the wiring harness into the headlight and turn signals (you may need to run an extension from the left side plug to be able to get it up there, I’m using aftermarket lights and had extra line already). Turn on the bike and check the high and low beam, then the turn signals and that the speedo-cluster is working properly.

9. Slide the headlight fairing brackets onto the fairing stay. Use the bigger 5/32 hex bolts to install. I slipped a few times and would recommend that you hold up the headlight and just start the threads on the top left and then right side. After they are hand snug, then I would do the bottom left and right. Turn the bike back on and check the angle (was an issue for me because I still had the stock brake line on there in the way (thinking about it, maybe if you take it off the fork and run it through the fairing stay (facing left side wire bracket) it would work better). Once you feel you have a good angle use the 5/32 hex key to finish tightening and making sure that the light direction is where you want it.

10. Microfiber cleaning towel off any or all smudges and you are ready to go.


NOTE: I did not use the brow lights, yet. I am going to take the Euro Harness to a electrical connector guy and see if we can test it out, to determine if I can get a matching male plug that I can wire up. Luckily the guy that I’ve ridden with for both of my Crashes is an electrical engineer. I suck at wiring stuff.


When I go to clean up the wiring I'll take clear pictures and figure out how to draw on them. I had to hurry up when I did it, because I was getting tired and I have to ride to work. I like lists anyway. If anybody has corrections, pointers let me know.

Also I'll post this in it's own thread on the Streetfighter forum so that it is easy to search
 
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