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Mod Chip Resistor

Wait, so if I'm reading it right, it's changing the resistance shown by the air temp sensor. I'm assuming that it's increasing the resistance, which would feed the ECU data suggesting that the air is cooler than it really is. This will richen the mix a little bit, but I can't see it doing anything that would help performance at all.

If your stock tune was super lean it might help, but probably not.
 
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Bought a simular thing once called .. Nitro x fuel commander . Difference being it was adjustable .Fitted it to my hayabusa and you could deff tell the changes . Tried it on the fz1 and it made no difference at all . I think some ecu s dont reconise them . As said save your dollar
 
If you can afford a power commander, then thats the way to go for improving your fuel economy.
Because if your going to cruise around between idle and 6000rpm, or lower, the stock bike puts a lot of fuel in down low, well too much I think.

Here's the proof as I have just had a PC5 fitted and tuned and here are the power and torque curves, and the Air Fuel Ratio before and after graphs:

Power and Torque curves:
scottyd-albums-scottyd72-picture2965-before-after-pc5-install-power-torque-curves.jpg


AFR ratio's:
scottyd-albums-scottyd72-picture2967-before-after-pc5-install-afr-ratios.jpg
 
scottyd said:
If you can afford a power commander, then thats the way to go for improving your fuel economy.
Because if your going to cruise around between idle and 6000rpm, or lower, the stock bike puts a lot of fuel in down low, well too much I think.

Here's the proof as I have just had a PC5 fitted and tuned and here are the power and torque curves, and the Air Fuel Ratio before and after graphs:

Power and Torque curves:
scottyd-albums-scottyd72-picture2965-before-after-pc5-install-power-torque-curves.jpg


AFR ratio's:
scottyd-albums-scottyd72-picture2967-before-after-pc5-install-afr-ratios.jpg
Click to expand...
So scottyd, if I'm reading this correctly, you've corrected the over fueling on the low end. Correct?

It also looks like you're starving your bike on the high end where, in my opinion, would be more crucial to have a decent A/F ratio. The last time I checked my bike red-lines at 12,000 RPM.

Your graph shows it cutting fuel out at around 11,200 RPM, then the graph ends at around 11,700 RPM.
I would tend to think that at that high of an RPM and that lean of a mixture that more harm than good could come from and overly rich mixture at low RPM.

What are your thoughts?
 
slesser said:
So scottyd, if I'm reading this correctly, you've corrected the over fueling on the low end. Correct?
Click to expand...
Yes thats correct.
slesser said:
It also looks like you're starving your bike on the high end where, in my opinion, would be more crucial to have a decent A/F ratio. The last time I checked my bike red-lines at 12,000 RPM.

Your graph shows it cutting fuel out at around 11,200 RPM, then the graph ends at around 11,700 RPM.
I would tend to think that at that high of an RPM and that lean of a mixture that more harm than good could come from and overly rich mixture at low RPM.

What are your thoughts?
Click to expand...

It was tuned by a very reputable tuner and I have not experienced any problems. I would imagine that at 11,200rpm it's going to get to the rev limit very quickly and the fuel has to stop somewhere.
The amount taken away at the end is so small (0.25:1) that it's probably only going to soften the rev limiter cutting in.
 
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You guys have to realize that his bike has a slip-on, K&N airfilter and the Lars Air box mod. Those modifications have thrown the stock tune way off, especially the air box mod.

So your not really looking at a stock tune from Yamaha.
 
super googan said:
You guys have to realize that his bike has a slip-on, K&N airfilter and the Lars Air box mod. Those modifications have thrown the stock tune way off, especially the air box mod.

So your not really looking at a stock tune from Yamaha.
Click to expand...

Well I think it would be pretty close SuperG.
Let me digress...

I had the bike dyno'd before i put any mods on (slip-on, K&N airfilter and the Lars Air box mod) but they didn't check the AFR with the probe up the tail pipe.
I did ask them to do it at the time and they said they will do that when I bring it back for tuning with the PCV on it and the original AFR would be almost the same.
Now the "before" AFR graph you see there is with the mods done (just before PCV tuning) imagine what (probably not much though) how much more fuel is going in without the K&N filter and the Lars air box mod, as they are letting in MORE air...
 
Scotty,
Your dyno graphs look about right for the mods that you have. Its pretty cool when you see consistent results from bike to bike with similar mods. I will say that you should consider adding a header (like the Arrow) to your setup as it will raise the dip in your curve at 7K up into the neighborhood of 100hp. The full Yosh setup that I have first hand experience with really made noticeable improvement in the midrange where this bike can really use it.

Certainly the stock tune can use some work but it's not always clear what the afr result of changes to the intake and exhaust will be. I would tend to agree with Googan that your mods make it an "unfair" assessment of the stock tune.
 
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