Cooper'n
Well-Known Member
Very interesting. how were you able to get all the info? Owners manual?
Problem with diagnostic mode, need help!
- Thread starter Dr MM
- Start date
Drewcarey
Member
What does D:62 and D:61 mean? I've got a FZ1 wreck that I'm in the process of building back to its former glory. I tried to fire it up for the first time today and it turns over fine but didn't actually fire up before the battery went flat. I checked my diagnostic codes against the few examples in this thread and the codes 62 and 63 are the only ones I had a different result for than the other guys. D:62 was 6 and D:61 started at 17 and started counting up the longer I had it on the screen. I currently don't have a radiator and only have one thermo fan plugged in. The only other thing that I can think of that's possibly causing the trouble is a couple of connections under the passenger seat that are floating loose. Was there something connected to these from the factory? Or is it more likely to be the plugs/connections from something like a power commander that has since been removed? And if it's from a power commander would this cause problems with the bike firing up seeing as it's been wired up but the unit is missing?
Thanks a lot, will whip the plugs out and check for spark when I can grab a plug spanner from work, I'm hoping it's something easy like just needing to buy another Power Commander (as I was going to anyway) to bring her back to life.
CHeers
Thanks a lot, will whip the plugs out and check for spark when I can grab a plug spanner from work, I'm hoping it's something easy like just needing to buy another Power Commander (as I was going to anyway) to bring her back to life.
CHeers
charliebrown408
New Member
For the repairing of the diagnostic mode, you have to off the motorbike and turn off the engine. Now disconnect fuel with the connector. Now when pressing and holding reset then turn on main switch. Meter should read "Diag" mode after 8 seconds.
vonadz
New Member
I have the same Co:1-4 codes ,(exhaust volume) codes -2,20,20,5
mikac71
Member
Hi..
My CO looks like this: C01 -2
C02 -2
CO3 -2
CO4 -2
All samereadings. but diferent from all others.
I notice that EXUP is not working.it is closed always. so maybe have some conection with these setings.
I by fz1s 2009 , before 30 days , and do not know anything about mainteinance.
My CO looks like this: C01 -2
C02 -2
CO3 -2
CO4 -2
All samereadings. but diferent from all others.
I notice that EXUP is not working.it is closed always. so maybe have some conection with these setings.
I by fz1s 2009 , before 30 days , and do not know anything about mainteinance.
navi
New Member
C0 is the exhurst readings per cylinder gas readings mine are all at 2 after finding them at -7 +20 +20 +5 with 41 mprg black exhurst now its clean and upto 60mpg slow ridin ---
delbert
Wizard
sorry to drag this up after a year but i came across it and find it very interesting. I have just checked mine and have the following
CO1=5
CO2=20
C03=7
C04=2
Did any one ever come up with a base setting ? or are they best left alone ?, I find it strange they are not all fairly close to each other or am i not understanding their meaning properly :shaking head:
CO1=5
CO2=20
C03=7
C04=2
Did any one ever come up with a base setting ? or are they best left alone ?, I find it strange they are not all fairly close to each other or am i not understanding their meaning properly :shaking head:
super googan
Wizard
I'm pretty confident after some research that CO1, CO2, CO3, CO4
refer to cylinders 1-4 idle/part throttle low rpm mixture.
A higher number will be richer and a lower number leaner.
I suspect the numbers are different depending on year of bike,different UCU setting per year, country of origin , meeting different emission and fuel standards.
The numbers being different for each cylinder may have to do with each cylinder being a little different ......example cylinders 1 and 4 will usually run cooler on a inline 4 engine because they are on the out side and get more airflow.
The opposite being true for cylinders 2 and 3 they are sandwiched in the middle and tend to run hotter.
I would probably just trust that Yamaha knows what they are doing and leave the settings alone. If I did change the settings I would be sure to record the original numbers in case they need to be restored.
Simple terms..........the CO settings are like idle mixture screws on a bike with carbs.
Messing with the CO settings may throw off the throttle-body sync .
refer to cylinders 1-4 idle/part throttle low rpm mixture.
A higher number will be richer and a lower number leaner.
I suspect the numbers are different depending on year of bike,different UCU setting per year, country of origin , meeting different emission and fuel standards.
The numbers being different for each cylinder may have to do with each cylinder being a little different ......example cylinders 1 and 4 will usually run cooler on a inline 4 engine because they are on the out side and get more airflow.
The opposite being true for cylinders 2 and 3 they are sandwiched in the middle and tend to run hotter.
I would probably just trust that Yamaha knows what they are doing and leave the settings alone. If I did change the settings I would be sure to record the original numbers in case they need to be restored.
Simple terms..........the CO settings are like idle mixture screws on a bike with carbs.
Messing with the CO settings may throw off the throttle-body sync .
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delbert
Wizard
Thanks for the info , the only problem is you never know if they have been tampered with previously , plus its very easy to be pressing buttons and change the settings without realizing :rmwl:
found this also , NOT MY WORDS may be of use to someone
It's a mapping but only available to European model
But for best result must on dynotest so the AFR is correct 1:13 or 1:13,5
C1 for idle rpm to 3000 rpm, oem setting is -5
C2 for 3000 to 7000 rpm, oem setting is 20
C3 for 7000 to 10000 rpm same 20
C4 for up to 10000 rpm is 2
Number is %, if 20 it mean 20% rich
So we don't need power commander any more
Sorry for language, I'm from Indonesian
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amevl
Wizard
you are correct the CO are the cylinders When I had my warrior the CO values were not the same and different from everybody elses bikes.We would use this as a "fine tuning" tool b4 adding a PC when aftermarket pipes and intakes had been added.Checking spark plugs you can get pretty close
super googan
Wizard
The information above is incorrect ! That refers to CO adjustment for Yamaha race kit ECU's for the R1 and R6. ONLY APPLIES TO R1/R6 RACE KIT ECU'S.
I'm positive the CO adjustments only apply to idle mixture on the FZ1. I have heard that if you ground the correct wire from the ECU you can change the CO from just idle mixture to the above ranges, but have seen no proof. Unless you have grounded the correct wire ( if it works ) your CO adjustments still only effect idle mixture.
If your bike idles fine, does not foul plugs or show any other idle related issues I would leave the setting alone.
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super googan
Wizard
EASY way to check if the above information is correct. Change C3 and C4 to a high number like 50 and see if it makes your idle super rich.
I bet it makes it so rich it wont even want to idle and if it does it will smell like raw fuel.
They are the high rpm settings ( according to that information ) and should not effect idle at all.
