front brake help

ewertkyle

ewertkyle

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This weekend I installed the hel ss brake lines and new pads. Used a suction bleeder tool to get fluid in the lines, cracked the banjos open while under pressure, pushed in the pistons, installed pads, bled using the lever, bled some more then some more and more and more.probably filled reservoir up 10+times. My question is (and I may be over thinking this) is once you pull on the front brake lever and the pad starts to make contact, how much movement is there at the end of the lever. Granted I have shorty levers, and big hands I cam getine to move about a half inch in. What kind of movement do you have? Also I'm trying the "zip tie brake lever towards grip" overnight trick to see if that helps any.
 
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If the lever seems to move more than or as much as it did with the stock lines, then you still have air in the system. Well bleed braided lines should feel noticeably firmer than stock rubber lines.

Probably still a bit of air in the system. I'd pump it up, hold pressure and crack each banjo, one at a time. Can also try tapping on the banjo's , master and calipers with the plastic or rubber handle of a screwdriver to free any trapped air. Could also get a helper to keep the master cylinder full while you pull fluid thru with the suction bleeder.
 
I've tried cracking each banjo open, and tapping everywhere. I'm not sure if the brakes feel much doffremt from before because I didn't pay attention before I started and now that I put on the new lines I'm thinking about it more. I'm going to get some more fluid and keep bleeding tonight.
 
just to clarify, you're gravity bleeding them correct? not using the mighty vac or whatever? start with the master, then left, then the right, then zip tie overnight. test ride. also, you're using the same master cylinder, it's gonna be the same pull as before, not stiffer or softer, pull should be the same if not slightly less, the difference will be in the riding feedback on the lever while braking, that's all you really changed
 
Yes I am gravity bleeding them, this may seem a bit odd but lastnigjt I bled them some more and lever felt fairly stiff, zip tied them overnight and when I got home from wor,cut zip ties and squeezed the lever a few times it now feels softer than before! I've changed the fluid in them on the past but never introduced any air to the system. Looks like I'm getting some more fluid and starting over again tonight
 
I use the same method as the video Adam linked to. When changing lines, I use the mighty vac first to mostly fill the lines, then use the bleed method. I intend to buy speed bleeders though to make the job of changing fluid a lot easier in the future. BTW, do not put speed bleeders on with empty lines. Fluid will open the check valve but air pressure will not so it's very hard to bleed new lines with those. Keep your original bleeders for changing lines. Put speed bleeders on AFTER they are bled.

How often to you all change the brake fluid?

Also, our own member Billy has this video available:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQ_LU0o8qSU
 
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Has anyone ever tried a reverse brake bleeder? Simple concept... instead of vacuum, the unit pulls fluid from the bottle and pushes it up through the caliper to the master cylinder. Makes sense since air in fluid wants to travel up yet we all try to bleed it down. Instead of watching for the MC to go dry, you need to watch for it to overflow. Now if they could create a reversed speed bleeder for this setup... ;) Found some reverse kits here but they are pricey! Brake Bleeders Archives - Phoenix Systems
 
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I have bled brakes and hydro clutches using a syringe. It works just. I generally use the Mighty Vac to replace the fluid and finish off with the traditional bleeding method. If I don't have the vac, I use a tube tied into a loop and attach to the nipple. Before I attach, I fill the tube enough that only the top of the loop is air. Once attached to nipple, simply loosen the bleed screw and pump the lever. The loop will keep air away from the bleed screw.
 
The Motion pro bleeder is the best tool for bleeding brakes. The handle has the 8 or 10 mm socket built in so no wrench needed. You are still pushing the fluid through lines. It has a one way valve so no air can enter line. And if you have linked brakes the vacuum pumps do not have enough pressure to pull through the extra lines. And its basicly a one handed job once hooked up
 
Ok update, I picked up more fluid and some M8x1.25 speed bleeders. Basically started over. Installed speed bleeder, cracked banjos open one at a time, refilled master cylinder, bled each caliper several times over, tapped on banjos and calipers with handle of screwdrivers. Bled brakes mote. Lever feels great, took it for a test ride and feed back is amazing. Even did a few little stoppies. Thanks for all the advice. I definitely think the speed bleeders are worth the $14 investment. found them at Napa. Made things WAY easier by myself
 
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