Can anyone help me identify this?

dodger06

dodger06

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I noticed this on my bike while I was cleaning it today. Not sure if it's factory or aftermarket. Anybody have any idea? It looks to me like one of them lowering link kits, but I'm not sure.

DSC02134.jpg


also, can anyone identify what type of bars these are? It looks to me like they may be the GYTR drag bars or a set of Gen 2 bars.

DSC02135.jpg
 
FZ1inNH said:
Yes, those are an ebay dealer's lowering link... Yamaha FZ1 (02-05) Black Lowering Links: eBay Motors (item 170306319823 end time Jun-20-10 12:48:20 PDT) This means you can adjust the bike's ride height too with the upper and lower holes. :tup:

And those sure look to be the Gen II bars on the Gen I bike. They look a lot like mine.
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Haileyan said:
+1, it looks like the risers are after market though. With the GYTR logo on them I would expect that they are Yamaha after market. Those risers are lower than stock.
Yamaha FZ1 Accessories, Yamaha FZ1 Billet Low Handlebar Mounts
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BroHay said:
LINKS...Epic Lowering Links for FZ1 06-07 - Suspension Components - Solo Moto Parts
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Thanks for the quick input! That's great news with the lowering links. I was having some worries about wheel clearance with the current setup and a passenger. I looked fairly likely that I could bottom out on a big bump, so I have my suspension set really stiff in the rear right now.

And yes, that is a GYTR riser that's 1" lower than stock. And with those bars on there, it kinda sucks for longer rides. Looking at getting different bars, but was curious what exactly I had right now. Until I went to a bike shop a week ago I thought the ones on there were stock.

And I had heard that the Gen II bars are threaded on the end to accept bar ends. Anyone happen to know if that's the case? If so, I don't think these are Gen II bars. I checked this afternoon and there is no threading.
 
Probably a stupid question, but which way would I need to move the bolt to return it to stock height? I've thought about it, and managed to come up with a reason for both holes to be the stock height hole :ugh:
 
dodger06 said:
...
And I had heard that the Gen II bars are threaded on the end to accept bar ends. Anyone happen to know if that's the case? If so, I don't think these are Gen II bars. I checked this afternoon and there is no threading.
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The stock Gen II bars are indeed threaded on the ends to accept the factory bar ends. I'm thinking that if yours aren't threaded then previous owner probably cut off about an inch or so on either end to make the bars narrower.

dodger06 said:
Probably a stupid question, but which way would I need to move the bolt to return it to stock height? I've thought about it, and managed to come up with a reason for both holes to be the stock height hole :ugh:
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No knowing what the length of the stock one is my educated guess would be that you want to use the hole at the very end. In other words make the link as long as possible to bring it back to stock height.
 
My question regarding height is this: Do you want it higher or lower at this point? You're fortunate to have the choice right now to do either. :D

The hole at the very end will lower the bike and the hole toward the inside will raise the bike.
 
middle of the road, as shown in your pictures, is the same as the stock set of links from MamaYama.

If you raise the bike, having two holes showing, it'll change the feeling of the bike by giving it quicker turn in. And if you are vertically challeneged, say under 5'10ish, you may not be able to flatfoot the bike at a stop.

If you lower, two holes showing closest to the ground, you will have the opposite of the above -- slower turn in and now makes it to where a 5'6ish can flatfoot. You would also have more weight of the bike to overcome when putting it on the centerstand. Not impossible, but takes a retrain on the body/mind to commit to get it to stick.

On a different note, I have a set of stock risers that maybe we could work something out if you are not goo-goo/gaaa-gaaa for the lower GYTR riser....
 
As for the wheel clearance, when you lower your bike, your would be more apt to scrape your pegs sooner and more likely to hit obstructions with your exhaust manifold. Raising the bike would give you more ground clearance, but does not change the range of motion for the fork/rear shock overall travel distance.

......there might be some angle of the dangles and trajectories that are impacted somehow to either accelerate/decelerate some coefficient of blah/blah/blah/....but I'm not an engineer....

Now, if you are riding two up, you'll need to give a BIG consideration to having some work done on the rear (heavier spring at least) or you will be facing your concern of bottoming out.

The rear shock on a Gen I has the ability to be resprung/revalved for around 200.00 and add another 100.00 for a spring (650/700/???) depending upon the combined weight of passenger/rider.

Traxxion dynamics is a good source, but by no means THE source. Just alot of people owing FZ's have had work performed by them, myself included, and it has always been top notch!
 
dodger06 said:
Probably a stupid question, but which way would I need to move the bolt to return it to stock height? I've thought about it, and managed to come up with a reason for both holes to be the stock height hole :ugh:
Click to expand...
to raise the back end use the lower hole, to lower the back end use the upper hole, very odd i know, but u'll understand when u do it !
 
BroHay said:
middle of the road, as shown in your pictures, is the same as the stock set of links from MamaYama.

If you raise the bike, having two holes showing, it'll change the feeling of the bike by giving it quicker turn in. And if you are vertically challeneged, say under 5'10ish, you may not be able to flatfoot the bike at a stop.

If you lower, two holes showing closest to the ground, you will have the opposite of the above -- slower turn in and now makes it to where a 5'6ish can flatfoot. You would also have more weight of the bike to overcome when putting it on the centerstand. Not impossible, but takes a retrain on the body/mind to commit to get it to stick.

On a different note, I have a set of stock risers that maybe we could work something out if you are not goo-goo/gaaa-gaaa for the lower GYTR riser....
Click to expand...

BroHay said:
As for the wheel clearance, when you lower your bike, your would be more apt to scrape your pegs sooner and more likely to hit obstructions with your exhaust manifold. Raising the bike would give you more ground clearance, but does not change the range of motion for the fork/rear shock overall travel distance.

......there might be some angle of the dangles and trajectories that are impacted somehow to either accelerate/decelerate some coefficient of blah/blah/blah/....but I'm not an engineer....

Now, if you are riding two up, you'll need to give a BIG consideration to having some work done on the rear (heavier spring at least) or you will be facing your concern of bottoming out.

The rear shock on a Gen I has the ability to be resprung/revalved for around 200.00 and add another 100.00 for a spring (650/700/???) depending upon the combined weight of passenger/rider.

Traxxion dynamics is a good source, but by no means THE source. Just alot of people owing FZ's have had work performed by them, myself included, and it has always been top notch!
Click to expand...

Thanks Everyone for the input.

As far as the adjusting goes, I'm looking to have it sit higher. A majority of the riding I'll be doing is alone, but occasionally I'll take my brother on the back when we go out for a ride as a family (I'm about 190, him 120).

The previous owner had trouble with the tire bottoming out and hitting the underside of the tail, and there is a hole in the plastic where the tire wore through. I'm working on getting an aluminum bent up to cover this hole, but want to also raise the bike so that won't happen again. As far as the seat hight goes, that will not be a concern at all, as I am 6'3" and should have no trouble with a taller bike.

As far as the risers go, I'm not really looking at getting rid of the GYTR ones if that's what you meant. (If you are offering to sell the stock ones, let me know.) I like the height its at right now for short trips (which is where I'll be using the bike a lot in about 2-3 months) but currently use it for longer trips. So I'm probably just going to buy another set of bars/risers to have the option of a more upright ride in the summer when I'm at home, and more aggressive in the fall and spring when I'm at college.
 
Oh, one more thing I forgot to mention. It appears to have a fairly new shock/spring in the rear (too shiny to be from 2003) and was wondering where to find a chart for adjusting the preload and such for road riding for different weight riders.

I currently have it set in the 3rd stiffest setting on the spring, just because it was really soft when I had got it (2nd softest) and didn't want to bottom out with a passenger on a rough road. (FYI, as mentioned above, I'm about 190 lbs)
 
BroHay said:
you must show pictures of your predicament....either there is something else going on, OR, he was in desperate need of having the shock resprng/valved

I'm running convertibars in a pretty agressive position.....I can burn 200 and feel fine -- I need a set of risers in case I ever decide to part with the FZ to put it back in a more stock trim....

http://www.998cc.org/forum/fz1-general-discussion/7487-homework-assignment.html
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Thanks for that link. It's exactly what I was looking for. But the Google Docs thing didn't want to work for me. Just threw an error.

I don't have any pictures of my shock right now, but will try to get some when I adjust the ride height. I do have a picture of the damage that I was talking about though.

DSC02132.jpg
 
dodger06 said:
Thanks for that link. It's exactly what I was looking for. But the Google Docs thing didn't want to work for me. Just threw an error.

I don't have any pictures of my shock right now, but will try to get some when I adjust the ride height. I do have a picture of the damage that I was talking about though.

DSC02132.jpg
Click to expand...

That looks pretty ugly and definitely an unsafe situation by having the tire rub that much against the fender. Raising back to stock height should easily solve that issue. You should be able to get a cheap replacement for that inner fender on eBay...plenty of Gen I parts on there.
 
With that amount of damage, I have to wonder if something else was done to the bike, perhaps making it too low? Is the shock shot? Was the prior owner a very large/heavy person? Did that person travel with pillion a lot?

Why it seems this way to me is that the shock should bottom out before your tire hits the tail. There should not be this significant amount of damage from even extreme cornering even with that lowering link in place and NOT at the lowest setting. I don't think a company would sell a link that would put a rider in this much peril.

Something else is very wrong here.... I'd do a lot of investigation, like start tearing it all down and compare notes with Gen I owners here. IF anything, just for your own safety?!?!? Please?
 
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