Yamaha Gen II Lower fairing install/review

Kevin Daly

Well-Known Member
This is a quick summary of the installation of the lower full fairings on the gen 2 FZ1. My intent is to provide some insight to those contemplating this so they are more informed about what it takes and what it will mean in terms of bike maintainace.

If you havent seen the pics of the FZ1 with lower fairings I can post some pics but I assume everyone has seen it before. Coming from the FJR I was interested in building a bike that has the touring capability but remains lightweight relative to power and suspension capabilities. So adding the fairing is the first step in converting this into my new touring bike.

The kit is made by Yamaha and can be found anywhere Yamaha parts are sold for $575.00; dont pay more. The kit comes with everything you need but the tools. Installation process is well described in the provided instructions. and really only consists of installing some rubber grommits and bushings on the fairing, a total of 4 brackets (2 per side) on the bike and a little bit of screwing. If your comfortable with taking cowling on and off a bike this is a nothing job. It is worth noting however for those contemplating doing this that you will need to do the following:

1) You have to drill out two 7mm holes on the underside of the existing cowling, just under the lights.
2) When drilling out the holes the left reflector on the left front brake has to be removed to achieve a straight shot with the drill.
3) You will need to remove the engine mounts and four bolts from the oil pan to mount brackets, so you will need a torque wrench.
4) The turn signals need to be removed and remounted to install the fairings. Consequently this means that every time you have to remove the fairing you will need to remove the turn signal/s. This isnt by any means hard but it will add to the time to remove and reinstall the fairing.
5) you will need to remove the fairing every time you do an oil filter change.
4) Once on the bike does look great (IMO) however what I was not aware of when I bought them of was that there remains a 1/4 inch gap between the original cowel and the upper part of the fairing and there is 1/8th inch clearance around the blinker arm which looks kind of crappy. The photo below highlights both of these "gaps." Personally I will be looking for a lighting solution that will mount in those holes. My bet though is that while they make such things for the cowl, they dont make one for the hole in the fairing (and they are different).

IMG_0567.jpg


ANyway that about sums it up. :smoking:
 
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good to know

I have thought of putting on the full fairing kit since I tour alot on the bike. I have gotten spoiled doing oil changes without a fairing since buying the FZ 1. I doubt that I will go back to the full fairing, and will most likely rely on good leathers for protection from the elements.
As far as the signal, you might consider a flushmount like the Watsen's if it will cover the hole. I am not sure, but I am guessing that there is room between the fairing and original plastic for the tiny clip that the flushmount uses to hold it in position. That way you only need unplug it before taking off the cowling, rather than having to completly remove it.

How about some close up shots so we can see what you mean about the gaps and signal hole.
 
One nice thing about the FJR was that you could change the oil/filter without removing the fairing. Definately not an option here. Oh well, I imagine its only going to add 20 minutes to the whole process.

I was thinking of taking pics of the gaps but it got too dark. I will post up tomorrow.

I looked at those lil Watsen's; they look pretty cool but it will take some research to see if they have one that will fit properly. The hole is larger and the surface is not flat so the flush mounts, me's thinks, will have to be made for the specific hole. But yeah if I can get something that will mount on the outer fairing piece (and yes there is like an inch between the cowl and the fairing at that point.
-k
 
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Ok I added a pic with the two gaps into the original post. And note that there is a spacer on that top bolt that actually establishes that gap. If you do not properly position the fairing prior to drilling the hole under the light then that gap will close or open (get wider/narrower) depending on the error. So take care to get everything aligned before you drill that hole.
 
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Hey Kevin, maybe you can post some shots of the full bike from the side so we can see the entire package. I think they left the gap incorporated into the fit as not to have the uppers and lowers touching each other. If they had, it may have cause rubbing from vibrations which would lead to scuffing of the paint. Nice job.
 
Ok here you go. And yes there is no doubt that the engineers left the gap to eliminate rubbing of the two parts. However, had they properly designed the cowl to accept the lower fairing this would not have occured. bikes that come fully faired do connect plastic to plastic and there is no problem so long as the lowers fit under the uppers.

IMG_0569.jpg
 
Thanks! I like it too but I do need to do something about the blankness of the fairing and the turn signals need to be mounted properly on the outer fairing (somehow).
 
I have the lower fairings on my 2006, I agree they look great. The only issue I have with it is during oil change. Hard to get at the filter. I usually remove the fairing to complete the oil change.
 
I have the lower fairings on my 2006, I agree they look great. The only issue I have with it is during oil change. Hard to get at the filter. I usually remove the fairing to complete the oil change.

Do you have sliders too? what brand works without cutting the fairing. I imagine you use the same motor mount which now has a spacer in it.
 
some thoughts

Do you have sliders too? what brand works without cutting the fairing. I imagine you use the same motor mount which now has a spacer in it.

I have seen the slider on a faired FZ 1 gen2. It has an offset Aluminum bracket that moves it forward so as not to interfere with the fairing. If I can find a picture I will add it. Google Image Result for http://www.cmcbikes.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/140x123/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/3/C/3C3-W0741-XX-00_HR.jpg

As far as the signal, have you checked to see if the ones from the newest FJR's would fit? They are nice enough looking and big enough to cover the hole for certain. Just a thought.
 
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I have seen the slider on a faired FZ 1 gen2. It has an offset Aluminum bracket that moves it forward so as not to interfere with the fairing. If I can find a picture I will add it.

As far as the signal, have you checked to see if the ones from the newest FJR's would fit? They are nice enough looking and big enough to cover the hole for certain. Just a thought.

you mean the OEM turn signals? Ah, but that would require cutting the fairing; I'm not ready to do that just yet. :)
 
Do you have sliders too? what brand works without cutting the fairing. I imagine you use the same motor mount which now has a spacer in it.

I have seen the sliders on the Gen II with the full fairings. I believe the trick is to use sliders intended for the 04-06 R1 since that has a full fairing as well.
 
It is what it is.

The lower fairing is what it is, which is a fairing for a bike that doesn't come with a fairing. I think it looks great. Makes your bike look incredible. I would mount the turn signals on the outside using some type of spacer.

Michael
 
I have to take of one side on mine too to do an oil change, but the bike looks much better with the lowers. I do agree though, it has too much space between the original upper...
 
I want to remove my full fairing brackets and respray them as they need some tlc. This will mean removing those 4 oil pan bolts - is it safe to remove those bolts without draining the oil from the bike? I don't want to spring a leak of the black stuff just because I've stuffed up.

Also are there any tips or tricks I should know before removing those 4 bolts?
Thanks
 
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