Spark plugs

S

SKM348

Member
Visit site
Looking at an '05 w/9k and plugs haven't been changed yet. Runs great but I see Yami recommends changing at 8k. Is it ok to wait a bit? Pat's how-to's says the easiest way is to remove radiator rather than going in through the top w/all the socket conncetions. I'm not a wrench but this looks fairly straight forward though but I really wasn't looking forward to changing radiator fluid as well. I'd like to ride this bike a few thousand miles before doing anything! Am I safe to delay this maintenance? Air filter hasn't been changed either.
 
no need to remove radiator... helll no need to raise the tank even.... use the supplied tool in the tool kit and a ratchet wrench... it's the easiest thing in the world... with or without AIS.... people make it way more difficult than it has to be.
 
va_rider said:
no need to remove radiator... helll no need to raise the tank even.... use the supplied tool in the tool kit and a ratchet wrench... it's the easiest thing in the world... with or without AIS.... people make it way more difficult than it has to be.
Click to expand...

Just what I've been waiting for. This is a must video for you Aaron. A how-to on how to swap out plugs sans removing anything. I was looking the other day and have to say it looked real crowded and obstructed in there. I'm doing the AIS kit this weekend so I will change the plugs at that time. After the wedding you need to get into producing some vids!
 
I just need someone to come to me with a bike that needs some work done... mine doesn't need it, so a video of removing and replacing plugs would just be me removing the plugs and putting the same ones back in.... FWIW, I use the NGK Iridium plugs when I do change them... they're a bit more expensive, but they last a lot longer compared to the regular plugs...

To remove and replace plugs, you'll need the spark plug tool from the kit, a long pair of needle-nose pliers, a ratchet wrench that fits over the top of the spark plug tool, and a can of WD-40. the #1 and #4 plug boots are easy enough to get by hand... pull the boots, drop the plug tool into the hole and rotate it until it is tight on the plug. Then, reach in with your ratchet wrench and put the wrench on the top of the plug tool. Then, just thread the plug out and put a new plug in the tool and drop it back in there. The plug boots can be a pain to get seated sometimes, but if you wipe a little WD-40 on the top of the plug boot (where it goes into the valve cover) it'll snap right in place. #2  are the exact same, but just a little harder to get to. Using the long needle nose pliers, reach in and pull the plug boots off of the plugs one at a time by grabbing the top of the plug boot (NOT BY THE WIRE) and pulling straight up... if you're having a problem with this, you can put a 1"x1" block of wood on top of the valve cover and set the pliers against that to pry the boot off... from there, it's the same deal. Drop the tool in the hole, get it onto the plug, and spin the plug out with the ratchet wrench... Re-Installing is the same deal as before. Ratchet wrench the plugs in, spray a little WD-40 on the top of the boot and move the 1x1 block to the bottom of the frame rail. get the boot sitting in the right place, then pry against the block with the needle nose pliers to get the boot firmly seated back on.

That's it. Easy as pie. No dropping the radiator, no need to lift the tank. No need for long extensions and all sorts of different joints.



As far as when to do it.. well... since the bike will be new to you, you won't really know if it's running "right" or not... Pull the #1 and #4 and take a look at the plugs.
 
Good step by step advice. I would like to put in there to coat the threads of the new spark plug with a compound called anti seize. cheap insuarance when you have to change those plugs again. It will keep the plug from corroding to the head and seizing and you won't pull threads when trying to remove that seized plug either
 
va_rider said:
I just need someone to come to me with a bike that needs some work done... mine doesn't need it, so a video of removing and replacing plugs would just be me removing the plugs and putting the same ones back in.... FWIW, I use the NGK Iridium plugs when I do change them... they're a bit more expensive, but they last a lot longer compared to the regular plugs...

To remove and replace plugs, you'll need the spark plug tool from the kit, a long pair of needle-nose pliers, a ratchet wrench that fits over the top of the spark plug tool, and a can of WD-40. the #1 and #4 plug boots are easy enough to get by hand... pull the boots, drop the plug tool into the hole and rotate it until it is tight on the plug. Then, reach in with your ratchet wrench and put the wrench on the top of the plug tool. Then, just thread the plug out and put a new plug in the tool and drop it back in there. The plug boots can be a pain to get seated sometimes, but if you wipe a little WD-40 on the top of the plug boot (where it goes into the valve cover) it'll snap right in place. #2  are the exact same, but just a little harder to get to. Using the long needle nose pliers, reach in and pull the plug boots off of the plugs one at a time by grabbing the top of the plug boot (NOT BY THE WIRE) and pulling straight up... if you're having a problem with this, you can put a 1\\"x1\\" block of wood on top of the valve cover and set the pliers against that to pry the boot off... from there, it's the same deal. Drop the tool in the hole, get it onto the plug, and spin the plug out with the ratchet wrench... Re-Installing is the same deal as before. Ratchet wrench the plugs in, spray a little WD-40 on the top of the boot and move the 1x1 block to the bottom of the frame rail. get the boot sitting in the right place, then pry against the block with the needle nose pliers to get the boot firmly seated back on.

That's it. Easy as pie. No dropping the radiator, no need to lift the tank. No need for long extensions and all sorts of different joints.



As far as when to do it.. well... since the bike will be new to you, you won't really know if it's running \\"right\\" or not... Pull the #1 and #4 and take a look at the plugs.
Click to expand...

You put a ratchet wrench on top of the spark plug tool? Here is a picture of the spark plug tool that came in the tool kit with my 2005 FZ1. Is your spark plug wrench different?
 
nope... same exact tool.... the skinny part up by your ring finger... that's where the ratchet wrench goes... we're talking ratchet wrench... not ratchet and socket... although, I suppose if your ratchet is thin enough, that may work as well....

if you don't have a ratchet wrench... you can use a regular wrench.... you'll just have to move it around a bit more... I'd say it's worth going to Lowes / Home Depot / Advance Auto / Auto Zone and getting just 1 ratchet wrench to use with the plug tool.
 
va_rider said:
nope... same exact tool.... the skinny part up by your ring finger... that's where the ratchet wrench goes... we're talking ratchet wrench... not ratchet and socket... although, I suppose if your ratchet is thin enough, that may work as well....

if you don't have a ratchet wrench... you can use a regular wrench.... you'll just have to move it around a bit more... I'd say it's worth going to Lowes / Home Depot / Advance Auto / Auto Zone and getting just 1 ratchet wrench to use with the plug tool.
Click to expand...

Thanks va_rider,

I pulled the number 1 plug wire and dropped the spark plug tool down in the spark plug hole. I didn’t realize the hole was so deep. I thought no way you had clearance to stand the tool up. But now I see what you mean. Still the working clearance on number 2 and 3 look pretty tight. The bike runs fine so I will probably wait until the riding season is over before I do anything.
 
Last edited:
I can help you on that one Bronco since just this past Sunday I had to pull all 4 plugs to diagnose why the bike isn't running. I checked each one for spark and used the tool thats mentioned in your post. Now keep in mind that I have no AIS Pump after doing the mod but I don't think it matters. Cylinder's #1 and #4 are a breeze. For cylinder #2, I was sitting on the right side of the bike. Reaching in from just behind the radiator I pulled the plug wire and holding the tool I put the small end in first along the top on the cylinder head. Just as I came to the cylinder hole I arched the tool upwards towards the bottom of the tank. You'll find the spot sure enough. You may have to bend it at the joint a little but you'll see that you'll be able to drop it right in. I then used what I believe was the #14 open end wrench from the kit and from the same side, reached it in with my right hand while with my left hand I slipped it in from the back of the cylinder head and held the very end of the extraction tool with my fingertips. It only takes one small little turn to break the plug free. Then just use your fingertips to unscrew the plug the rest of the way. Bring it up the same direction that you put it in, bending the joint as you come out. You then can pull it out towards you. The #3 cylinder goes the same way. I went in again from the right side of the bike, with the tool pointing towards the #2 cylinder. Bend it upwards as you did for the other cylinder and you should have no problem. If I wasn't so sick with fever, I would make a quick video on Wednesday to help you out better. Let me know how it goes. Remember to use a good bright light. Its very important to see what your doing.
 
FZ1riderNY said:
I can help you on that one Bronco since just this past Sunday I had to pull all 4 plugs to diagnose why the bike isn't running. I checked each one for spark and used the tool thats mentioned in your post. Now keep in mind that I have no AIS Pump after doing the mod but I don't think it matters. Cylinder's #1 and #4 are a breeze. For cylinder #2, I was sitting on the right side of the bike. Reaching in from just behind the radiator I pulled the plug wire and holding the tool I put the small end in first along the top on the cylinder head. Just as I came to the cylinder hole I arched the tool upwards towards the bottom of the tank. You'll find the spot sure enough. You may have to bend it at the joint a little but you'll see that you'll be able to drop it right in. I then used what I believe was the #14 open end wrench from the kit and from the same side, reached it in with my right hand while with my left hand I slipped it in from the back of the cylinder head and held the very end of the extraction tool with my fingertips. It only takes one small little turn to break the plug free. Then just use your fingertips to unscrew the plug the rest of the way. Bring it up the same direction that you put it in, bending the joint as you come out. You then can pull it out towards you. The #3 cylinder goes the same way. I went in again from the right side of the bike, with the tool pointing towards the #2 cylinder. Bend it upwards as you did for the other cylinder and you should have no problem. If I wasn't so sick with fever, I would make a quick video on Wednesday to help you out better. Let me know how it goes. Remember to use a good bright light. Its very important to see what your doing.
Click to expand...

Thanks,
I'll save a link to this thread, and re-read it before I change plugs.
 
I hate to resurrect a 2.5 year old thread, but I wanted to thank va_rider. His advice was right on the money and saved me the hassle of de-mounting, moving or removing the radiator to do a simple plug change to NGK Iridiums.

If you can get your hands on a long (like 10") curved hemostat, you can use it in place of the long pliers and also to grab hold of the factory plug tool when removing or replacing #2 and #3. (It's also a very handy tool for manipulation of the #2-#3 vacuum lines when doing a carb sync) I used a 14mm socket on a long extension to turn the plug tool on cylinder #3 only. For all others, I used the 14mm closed-end ratcheting wrench to loosen and tighten the tool.

Many thanks to va_rider.
 
I wonder how many owners there are with high mileage on their machines who have never changed the plugs? How long would the plugs go under average operating conditions?
 
It depends on the plugs... NGK is OEM... so they're pretty good plugs...

Assuming normal operation (no fueling issues), and daily usage, you could probably see 25-30k miles on a set of plugs.... I changed mine every season.. and every season, I asked myself why the hell I was doing it... every time, I removed the plugs, and they looked fine.
 
va_rider said:
It depends on the plugs... NGK is OEM... so they're pretty good plugs...

Assuming normal operation (no fueling issues), and daily usage, you could probably see 25-30k miles on a set of plugs.... I changed mine every season.. and every season, I asked myself why the hell I was doing it... every time, I removed the plugs, and they looked fine.
Click to expand...

Yea, my factory plugs looked fine when I recently changed them at 9.5k miles. Put in a set of Iridium ones so I guess I'll never have to touch them again...lol
 
va_rider said:
I just need someone to come to me with a bike that needs some work done... mine doesn't need it, so a video of removing and replacing plugs would just be me removing the plugs and putting the same ones back in.... FWIW, I use the NGK Iridium plugs when I do change them... they're a bit more expensive, but they last a lot longer compared to the regular plugs...

To remove and replace plugs, you'll need the spark plug tool from the kit, a long pair of needle-nose pliers, a ratchet wrench that fits over the top of the spark plug tool, and a can of WD-40. the #1 and #4 plug boots are easy enough to get by hand... pull the boots, drop the plug tool into the hole and rotate it until it is tight on the plug. Then, reach in with your ratchet wrench and put the wrench on the top of the plug tool. Then, just thread the plug out and put a new plug in the tool and drop it back in there. The plug boots can be a pain to get seated sometimes, but if you wipe a little WD-40 on the top of the plug boot (where it goes into the valve cover) it'll snap right in place. #2 are the exact same, but just a little harder to get to. Using the long needle nose pliers, reach in and pull the plug boots off of the plugs one at a time by grabbing the top of the plug boot (NOT BY THE WIRE) and pulling straight up... if you're having a problem with this, you can put a 1"x1" block of wood on top of the valve cover and set the pliers against that to pry the boot off... from there, it's the same deal. Drop the tool in the hole, get it onto the plug, and spin the plug out with the ratchet wrench... Re-Installing is the same deal as before. Ratchet wrench the plugs in, spray a little WD-40 on the top of the boot and move the 1x1 block to the bottom of the frame rail. get the boot sitting in the right place, then pry against the block with the needle nose pliers to get the boot firmly seated back on.

That's it. Easy as pie. No dropping the radiator, no need to lift the tank. No need for long extensions and all sorts of different joints.



As far as when to do it.. well... since the bike will be new to you, you won't really know if it's running "right" or not... Pull the #1 and #4 and take a look at the plugs.
Click to expand...

Bringing this back from the dead. my records show I changed my plugs and flushed the coolant a while back, so I know i did it, or maybe I had the shop do it? Not 100% on that as my notes are not very clear. That is my bad.

That said, the shop sold me 4 plugs that have a 5/8 or 16mm head on them. The plug wrench in my tool kit is just a hair too small to fit over the new plugs and when I put the tool down the hole it will not fit over the top of the plug in there.... I tried on cylinder 1 and 4..... a 5/8 and 16mm socket are too thick to fit in the hole, I could force them down with some lubrication of some sort, but then i imaging getting them back up would be a pain. I am gonna call the local Yamaha shop and make sure I have the right plugs and see if there is a tool I am missing that I need that is different from the plug tool in my bikes tool kit.
 
It was really bothering me that the fit on my spark plug tool was so close, but just not fitting. I grabbed a big 15mm hex tool, the thing in a vice and put in some elbow grease:
1610904666619.png

And now it fits! TA-DA!
1610904696107.png


somehow the sides got crushed just enough to make it seem like the wrench was a size too small....
 
Sooooooooooooooooooo, the story gets better.

I get to the second plug and realize that I need to take the little metal cap off the top due to the way the FZ1 boots fit over the top of them. No big deal right, just pull out the first plug I did, remove the cap and put it back in....

So this plug tool that comes in the kit... it has a tight rubber fitting that will not seat over the cap. It was not a big deal when putting the new plug in, but I could not get it to grip well and pull the plug out. I keep putting my finger down there trying to shimmy it up, but in the process I realize that the cap is off and fell down and was stuck between the plug and the wall of the shaft..........

If that cap falls into the cylinder I am screwed....

I decide I need a magnet on a stick and possibly a grabby tool, so I make a trip to the auto parts store and find one that is over 1 foot long, bendy to a certain degree, has a magnet on the tip, a light inside the tip and little grabby claws.

I am freaked out in my head about dropping that cap into the motor, so I lay the bike over on a crate in my yard and go to work, the cap was jammed in hard so it took me 20 min to get the plug and the cap loose from each other, and then the cap just rolled out. I put the bike back upright, screwed the plug back into place and then finished the other plugs so the oil could all settle back properly.

Replaced the O-Ring in the thermostat housing, put the cooling system back together and she fired right up.

Added coolant while I let the bubbles out and did a test ride. Seems good as new.

Here is a picture so you can laugh at my technique:

1611093232758.png
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top