Pro-Sport O2 guage

Lonerider59

Lonerider59

Wizard
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I received my O2 guage kit today and got it installed this afternoon. The kit is actually designed for a car so there is a lot of cable that has to be wound and stored. It could be cut to length but until I had it installed and working I didn't want to cut anything I might have to return. As it turned out, I was able to conceal all the various left over cables and there are three, a sensor cable from the O2 sensor on the exhaust, a power cable from the battery, and a cable to the guage itself. They all go to the controller which I mounted under the cowl with all the cable bundles. One of the best features of the kit is that the Bosch sensor has the same diamater and threads as the Denso that is stock on the bike so it's a plug and play device. The power is a three connection afair, +12V from the battery, ground from battery, and a switched +12v from any source that comes on with the ignition. I purchased a $15 guage mount because there really wasn't a good flat place to drill a 2 1/16" hole. I simply used double sided tape to hold the guage for now in case I decide to mount it in a dfferent place. I have included a few pictures, one of my helmet cam mount, and a video link for the guage in action.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvalnNBfXwY[/ame]
 
They have been in use for several years in the auto racing industry as a way of ensuring your air/fuel mixture is correct. Most shops that run dyno testing will use a similar guage when getting the jetting (for carbed) and mapping (for injected) correct. If the a/f ratio is way down in the 10-11 area, you know you are very rich and if it gets in the 18-20 area you are way too lean. I'm sure Ivan has a good map but I felt that being able to monitor the a/f while under actual riding conditions will let me know if I should either lean it or richen it a bit at ay particular point. Although you are not injected, you can still put one on by welding the bung in (which they supply with the kit for those that don't have one already in place). In the good old days most of us just looked at the plugs and tail pipe for indications of mixture. Sooty plugs=too rich, white plugs=too lean. Not real scientific but it did give you an idea of which way to go. With the PCIII, if you know at a particular area you are reading rich or lean, you can decrease or increase your fuel delivery a bit at that point to see where you go. The first thing I did after getting my PCIII was to print out and save the original map so I'll always know where I started.
 
I'm due for a tune up -- plugs, fluids, and such. I definitely will look at the plugs and check out the above while I'm in there. I tracked down a carbtune and will sync the carbs after I install Ivan's jet kit for slil-on.

Is there any indication of a/f mixture that can be seen on the tip of the exhaust?

Thanks,
BroHay
 
From my perspective, the cleaner the end of the pipe the leaner the mixture, generally anyway. If you notice a lot of carbon buildup it is probably running rich. Most tuners can also smell a rich fuel mixture. I'm sure you have either passed or been passed by a vehicle that is out of tune and has a definite strong fuel like smell. That can also be an indication of bad combustion characteristics from old plugs, etc. etc. but if it smells bad it is bad and needs attention. The reason I bought the gauge was that it takes the guess work out of the equation. Either it's rich or lean or about right. There just plain isn't any way to tell the difference between a slightly rich mixture and a mixture that is right on the money without the right tools. A good dyno shop and tuner will do it for you but you'll also pay a good price and when you change anything on your bike that has anything to do with the intake or exhaust system, or compression ratio, valve timing and so on, you will be back to the tuner. Or........you can get into the do it yourself mode if you have the time and inclination.
 
I'm still leary about breaking into the EXTRA set of carbs I purchased to do Ivan's Jet Kit (plus I haven't had the time lately with the hotel in Tuba...) I've got all the pieces, except the pin vise, to go to town (after 300 labor for the jet kit from local stealer and another 75 to sync the carbs, that decision was a no brainer) . After I'm done, I'll sell the 'old' carbs and recoup some money and will be about 75-100 total cost (with everything less my time....hehe).

I am trying to become tech savy, but I won't learn anything until I undertake the project. Guess I had better get to work!

Thanks Don, you always give me more homework instead of blissfully riding about on the FZ thinking that everything is just fine. Now if I could of only showed as much enthusiasm in school, I might of been able to retain something....hehe

Adam
 
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