Oil Filter Cross References.

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Stevil25

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So I need help with some info about Oil filters for My 05 FZ1. Im at a point where i need to start saving some money and paying 7 or 8 bucks on a filter when I could possiblly get it for 3 or 4 makes sense. What are some good cross references from Oem that would be good to use. Also is it ok to just take my filter and go to an automotive store and try and find an auto filter that matches up. Any help would be great.
 
I have a Gen II but I think the filters will still fit your Gen I....Bosch 3320 or 3323's. I use a 3320 because their smaller and the stock headers make it very difficult to get in their with a wrench. The 3323's are longer filters. Anyone with a Gen I can chime in but I'm 95% sure they'll fit. You can get the Bosch filters at ANY auto parts store or online, Amazon has great prices usually.
 
Well you could go the automotive filter route. I know the Purolator L14610 will fit. I am sure any other brand that cross references with that Purolator one should fit as well. However, if you want a motorcycle specific filter then Purolator also makes the ML16817 for our bikes. You can get them here with free shipping if you buy over $25 at a time:

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Purolator-ML16817-Black-Motorcycle-Filter/dp/B000ICNUK2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1268929922&sr=8-1"]Amazon.com: Purolator ML16817 Black Motorcycle Oil Filter (Pack of 2): Automotive[/ame]


***Note: I know some people (including myself) have been using, or thinking of using, the Purolator PureOne oil filter, but after reading the following on their site I think I will switch over to the motorcycle specific ML16817:

What About PureONE?
If you're thinking you want to install a PureONE oil filter on your bike, please think again. PureONE oil filters are designed for vehicles, not bikes. Because of PureONE's high efficiency, the motorcycle oil pump may not be able to handle the pressure. The Purolator motorcycle filter line is designed to meet the specific needs of a bike; therefore we highly recommend the use of a Purolator ML filter over a PureONE oil filter.

Now I don't know how much of that is lawyer talk (for liability issues), but I don't think I want to take the chance of damaging my engine over an oil filter. I change the oil often enough that it shouldn't really matter if I use a PureOne or not. I will be ordering the ML16817 from Amazon for my next oil change.
 
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I used the Purolator Pure One PL14610/14612 exclusively on my ST1300 and had no problems, although I may have been just lucky. I also use them on my Civic and Pilot. Not sure about the comparison between the PL and ML filters. Anyone have info?

Thanks,

MrHix
 
MrHix said:
I used the Purolator Pure One PL14610/14612 exclusively on my ST1300 and had no problems, although I may have been just lucky. I also use them on my Civic and Pilot. Not sure about the comparison between the PL and ML filters. Anyone have info?

Thanks,

MrHix
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I don't think the ML series uses a synthetic filtering media like the PL series. That being said they are probably closer in construction to the regular L series automotive filters, but they are black in color ;)
 
Maybe my 60 years (45 of which were on motorcyces) just gives me a different perspective on money, but if I'm going to ride a $9000 motorcycle, I'm not going to cheap-up and save a few $ on an inferior oil filter. The old addage "you get what you pay for" is more relavent today then ever. And as any experienced rider will tell you, that applies to oil, tires, plugs, etc. etc. Otherwise first buy an el-cheapo Chinese or Korean rig, then put your $2.50/qt oil in and the $3 filter. You wont feel so bad when it starts to smoke.
 
For me, it is not a matter of cheap, it is a matter of what you get for your $$$. I did quite a bit of looking around, read many articles, figured in a fudge factor for lies and deceit on the web, and chose what I think are good filters. I would have paid double for good ones but not double for "factory" poor ones.

Just for what it's worth.

Cheers,

MrHix
 
Lonerider59 said:
Maybe my 60 years (45 of which were on motorcyces) just gives me a different perspective on money, but if I'm going to ride a $9000 motorcycle, I'm not going to cheap-up and save a few $ on an inferior oil filter. The old addage "you get what you pay for" is more relavent today then ever. And as any experienced rider will tell you, that applies to oil, tires, plugs, etc. etc. Otherwise first buy an el-cheapo Chinese or Korean rig, then put your $2.50/qt oil in and the $3 filter. You wont feel so bad when it starts to smoke.
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I agree. I buy the OEM filter and quality full synthetic oil. Run it for the recommended mileage and change. Keep your receipts; write down the mileage per change and you are good to go. Really is 12-15 dollars worth all the hassle? :shoot:
 
With my decision to start using synthetic, I also investigated which would be the apropriate filter. Two things came up, automotive or motorcycle. Where I was going to get oil, I likewise wanted to get the filter. The choice being due to the fact that the closest Yamaha dealer was some 40+ miles away, and those weren't pleasant riding miles. I'm not sure the actual author but, FZ1inNH's post with the various filters was, I believe, the original source of information leading me to jot down numbers and brands so I could see if I could find the appropriate filter down at Advanced Auto.

My Daughter works there and a discount is available to her, so why not have brand loyalty to her store since more sales= more people not laid off in these tough times, at least that was my thinking. In the list was the Mobil 1's #108 for the FZ1, and it list priced for $12.00. However with the discount it was something more in the range of $8.00. I don't exactly recall the price of the Mobil 1 oil, however two types were available, and they did cary the type used in motorcycles. I believe the oil is typically in the range of 7-8 dolars a quart, however again with the discount, along with a digital tire guage, I walked out around 30 ish dolars later. However I only bought 3 quarts and it calls for just slightly over 3 quarts, something like 3.2 or some such, so I had to go back and get one more quart. One thing I'v noticed in the 'eyeglass' is that around a thousand miles later, it seems to have burnt zero oil as the level has remained the same, and also, the color is not the black one would expect, rather a darkish honey color.

The other great thing with synthetic was the transformation in shifting..... It very quickly became Silky Smoothe, and was indeed quite noticeable right from the start. I must point out that Mobil 1 makes a couple type synthetics, and that only one is recomended in bikes due to the wet clutch and their additives in the oil. I have zero clutch slip, nor have I ever had pause to even consider any change or degredation in clutch action in the realm of slippage, rather it too acts silky smooth with instant grip. You could easily do 'burn-outs' if that was your thing. I'll go Lonerider59 on the thinking of taking care of this investment and not sweating the small fiew bucks additional for the better quality and piece of mind, after all if you wan'a play ....You got'a pay, whats 30ish dolars??? The transformation was well worth it. I'm at 8,500 miles as we speak and loving it. It's goin'a be a great riding year 2010......
 
Hellgate said:
I like K&Ns because they have the nut for ease removal/install, and they are have a safety wire hole in them already. Too easy. :shine:
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I agree on this! That is why I started using K&N at the first change. I get the filters at a discount and pay $10 for them from the dealer. I paid more for the filter once because they only had the Chrome ones in stock and I didn't want to wait to do the change or use a different brand. I can justify the cost as insurance for my favorite toy.
 
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