many questions

pjspin0331

pjspin0331

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hey guys,

i have a bunch of questions for you:

1. i finally got the carbs off my bike (thanks to billy) and i opened up all the float bowls except one which i got 3 screws off and stripped the very last one (just my luck, but i'm going to try to force it into a flathead), and got all the dark crap gas out of them. other than that gas, they look pretty clean. is there any thing else i should do to clean them out? could it just have been the really old dirty gas that was in them? if i put them back on and the bike doesn't work, idk what the heck i could do.

2. how do i go about taking my rivet chain off and putting a new one on? do i need special tools? my chain is extremely rusty and needs to be replaced for safety and to pass inspection.

3. i had more but i forgot them, so any help with the first few would be appreciated. thanks
 
also, what kind of chain am i looking for. my clymers manual recommends a chain with a masterlink, but you guys have told me to get a rivet chain...this bike is going to be the end of me, and i haven't even got to ride it yet!
 
if you get everything assembled and it wants to run for you -- run a treatment or two of seafoam to help further remove any foreign debris that might be housed in the carbs.

The recommendation for the masterlink has always been a rivited masterlink. The attached link gives a pretty good step by step -- might be easier for you to have you local stealer do the first install b/c you can spend just as much for the tool initially as you would for the new chain/sprockets....

KLR650 DID "X-ring" chain (riveted master link) install step-by-step walk thru - ADVrider
 
get a can of carb cleaner and spray through the jets... clean the jets with a guitar string or similar... do the same with the pilot jets... don't spray gaskets or rubber pieces.... they'll swell and have to be dried out before reinstalling


also... replace the fuel filter.
 
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Right the first time

If it were me I'd take the carbs apart and soak them in Carb cleaner,(it's cheap) and replace all the gaskets, diaphrams (put in a kit). Might as well do it right the first time so when you put it back on you won't have to worry about it for years. :2cents:
 
i got some gumout and totally disassembled the carbs and sprayed the crap out of them and the pieces. hopefully this will be all the work needed to get this baby running!

28684_387229730727_645340727_4495028_1361819_n.jpg


28684_387230045727_645340727_4495030_5263420_n.jpg


also, what is this piece called?
28684_387230365727_645340727_4495033_4318554_n.jpg

what does it do? is it bad that i took it off to get to the carbs? does the inner part have to be a certain length? this is where it came from:
28684_387230185727_645340727_4495032_5271798_n.jpg


as always, thanks in advance for any help you might have to offer!
 
That is the cam chain tensioner. ... it keeps the timing chain from getting too slack, and wiping out the cams.... it should go back in EXACTLY as it came out... it really shouldn't have come out.
 
va_rider said:
That is the cam chain tensioner. ... it keeps the timing chain from getting too slack, and wiping out the cams.... it should go back in EXACTLY as it came out... it really shouldn't have come out.
Click to expand...

ah crap. i couldn't get it back on like it was because it was in a position that was too long and i couldn't get the bolts to catch. am i pretty screwed here, going to need a professional?
 
if you take your time, you should be able to get it back on yourself...

also... another quick note.... COVER THAT HOLE. You don't want crap inside there... make sure all of your intake ports are covered also...


Do you have a service manual?
 
when you removed the tensioner it extended out to max it has to be reset, first remove the bolt in the end of the tensioner her's the manual steps on resetting and installation.


while lightly pressing the timing chain tensioner rod by hand, turn the tensioner rod fully clockwise with a thin screwdriver.

with the timing chain tensioner rod turned all the way into the timing chain tensioner housing(with the thin screwdriver still installed), install the gasket and timing chain tensioner onto the cylinder block.

tighten the timing chain tensioner bolts to the specified torque 7 lbft.


remove the screwdriver make sure that the tensioner rod releases, and then tighten the cap bolt to the specified torque 4 lbft
 
make sure the tensioner rod deploys if the eng was rotated when the tensioner was out it woul be advisable to check the timing marks on craink and cams if it is out of time or the chain is loose it will go out of time and could result in catasrophic faillure
 
spddmon said:
when you removed the tensioner it extended out to max it has to be reset, first remove the bolt in the end of the tensioner her's the manual steps on resetting and installation.


while lightly pressing the timing chain tensioner rod by hand, turn the tensioner rod fully clockwise with a thin screwdriver.

with the timing chain tensioner rod turned all the way into the timing chain tensioner housing(with the thin screwdriver still installed), install the gasket and timing chain tensioner onto the cylinder block.

tighten the timing chain tensioner bolts to the specified torque 7 lbft.


remove the screwdriver make sure that the tensioner rod releases, and then tighten the cap bolt to the specified torque 4 lbft
Click to expand...

did it exactly how you said to do it. hopefully it will be fine. if it doesn't run after this, then i don't really know what the problem is. hopefully i will get to try this weekend. thanks
 
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