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boofhead

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Hi,

I'm new here. Brief back story, been riding 15yrs, exclusively on track with a 2015 Aprilia RSV4 for the past 6 years. Haven't ridden on the road in that time. Moved to a new country, just out of the city and would finally like to get back into road riding.
All my bikes have been super sports (even my first a baby CBR 250RR) Now too old to ride a super sport for hours on end, I've decided I want a naked. I've taken an MT09 for a test ride, while it was great and fun it just left me missing what it didn't have.
MT10 is out of my price range these days, and it appears these are the next best thing (just an MT10's dad on paper ?) So I've made the decision this the bike I'm looking for.

Anyway, so I do have a couple questions if anyone is willing to answer, before I start inspecting bikes.

1. I'm a bigger guy 6ft 250lb in leathers , can I just re-spring & re-valve the forks ? or is it worth replacing internals ? similarly for the shock, can I just spring/valve or replace it ?
2. I just planned on doing slip-on, ecu flash, air filter. Are there any other bike specific mods that should be done (e.g with Suzuki the restrictor plates can be removed to give wot in lower gears)
3. Do they make aftermarket quickshifters for these (e.g woolich type stuff) ?
4. What is the motor/clutch like ? as all the examples I'm looking at inspecting are between 18k - 25k miles
5. I'm aware of the rotor issue which I'll be fixing soon as I buy one, but wondering if there is anything else I need to look/listen for ?

Cheers
Boof
 
Last edited:
Im a gen1 guy and have limited gen2 knowledge. The only comment i have is on the -06&7 frames. Yamaha started a new welding process on the frames and they have been known to crack. In 08 they changed the process and the issue was fixed.
 
boofhead said:
Hi,

I'm new here. Brief back story, been riding 15yrs, exclusively on track with a 2015 Aprilia RSV4 for the past 6 years. Haven't ridden on the road in that time. Moved to a new country, just out of the city and would finally like to get back into road riding.
All my bikes have been super sports (even my first a baby CBR 250RR) Now too old to ride a super sport for hours on end, I've decided I want a naked. I've taken an MT09 for a test ride, while it was great and fun it just left me missing what it didn't have.
MT10 is out of my price range these days, and it appears these are the next best thing (just an MT10's dad on paper ?) So I've made the decision this the bike I'm looking for.

Anyway, so I do have a couple questions if anyone is willing to answer, before I start inspecting bikes.

1. I'm a bigger guy 6ft 250lb in leathers , can I just re-spring & re-valve the forks ? or is it worth replacing internals ? similarly for the shock, can I just spring/valve or replace it ?
2. I just planned on doing slip-on, ecu flash, air filter. Are there any other bike specific mods that should be done (e.g with Suzuki the restrictor plates can be removed to give wot in lower gears)
3. Do they make aftermarket quickshifters for these (e.g woolich type stuff) ?
4. What is the motor/clutch like ? as all the examples I'm looking at inspecting are between 18k - 25k miles
5. I'm aware of the rotor issue which I'll be fixing soon as I buy one, but wondering if there is anything else I need to look/listen for ?

Cheers
Boof
Click to expand...

First, welcome! Second, I'll answer what I can!

1. The FZ suspension is known for being setup for riding with a lot of luggage or pillion, so replacing components might not be necessary. I'm not quite as heavy as you (225 in leathers) and was able to use the regular adjustments for the track. I am only an "advanced" beginner though. I do find it to be just a tad "stiff" for the street, but at your weight it may be close to perfect. Definitely should swap out the fork oil, but I'm sure you know that!

2. Some folks feel those mods are all that are needed BUT there are some crazy folk who also do the typical -1/+2 sprocket swap. I imagine keeping the front down becomes an exercise in fun futility at that point!

3. Yep - https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/healtech-yamaha-fz1-06-15-quickshifter-easy/

4. Solid from everything I've read. No issues with mine but I've only put about 9k on it over the last year and a half I've owned it.

5. My oil/water pump seals were leaking due to sitting unused for so long. The oil pan has a weep hole (towards the rear middle of the pan) that will drain either oil or coolant if a seal is going bad.

Hope that helps!
 
I suggest that the stock GEN II spring rates are close to being correct for your riding weight with the '06 being slightly stiffer. At 250+ you are in the upper range of the spring rate and expect to ramp up preload. Ditto on the above mentioned frame issues on the '06-'07s.

The OEM shocks are somewhat lacking in action and adjustment for 'sport' riding. For the front, improvements range from different weight oils, accessory cartridges to replacement of the tubes or the entire front end. For the rear, replacement of the shock is the only alternative. Choices include use of an R1 shock to various mfrs (i.e.: Penske, Ohlins, etc.) made specifically and sprung for the riders weight. At 250#, you will need springs in the upper range of availability.

Changing the countershaft sprocket by -1 tooth makes a significant difference in throttle response; however, a speedohealer or ECU flash is required to correct the speed display. Rear sprocket tooth changes (+/- 2 or more) typically require a chain length change to stay within adjuster limits.

Most riders find the seat uncomfortable after 45 minutes to an hour of riding. Several alternatives are available. Hot climate riding is affected by engine heat at stop or low speeds. Different options exist (i.e.: fan temp adjustment, insulatation, etc.)

Most riders find the stock handlebar/footpeg ergonomics uncomfortable. Alternatives include replacement bars and rearsets. Highway pegs also can give an temporary respite from the painful kneezles.

Cosmetic mods typically include replacement of the rear fender, tail and fairing turn signal lamps. LED replacements require a flasher upgrade. Headlamps can be upgraded to LED or HID.

Different options exist for windscreens, rear or tank luggage, bar/grip heaters, exhaust/muffler, crash/stunt bars, levers, grips, etc.

Any performance upgrades (i.e.: Airbox mod, high-flow exhaust, etc.) should be accompanied by an ECU flash. The stock ECU settings favor emissions and Many riders remove the EGR system and remove or disable the exhaust valve. Some riders prefer add-ons such as a Power Commander rather than a flash.

Maintenance items for used GEN IIs typically include stator upgrade, tire, sprocket, chain and battery replacement. Clutches that have not been abused typically last over 80-100k miles. The R1 based motor is basically bulletproof and given routine maintenance will last well beyond 100k miles.

After purchase, don't forget the standard practice of oil/filter change, lube & adjust the triple clamp bearings and clutch cable, lube the swingarm and suspension bearings, replace the air filter, etc.

Needless to say, there are many other farkels and knicknaks (quickshifter included) that make the day of any rider. Most owners remove the modification parts prior to sale to maximize sale $$$.

Inspect every bike for prior owner mods that have involved the electrical system. Use of wire connectors such as the 3M snap-shut variety leave broken insulation and can signifcantly weaken the copper copper conductor. Connectors may require cleaning and lubrication. Look for missing bolts or metrics replaced by SAE.

The late FZ1oa forum covered many of these topics in depth and detail. Sorry to say, the info is no longer availabe. Search this forum for the particular mod.

I believe that covers many if not most of the things to expect and inspect. Good luck!
 
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