GIpro X-type gear indicator custom install....

scottyd

scottyd

Wizard
www.fz1-forum.com
GIpro X-type gear indicator custom install Development thread....

Ok, so as the story goes we have seen a vid on youtube on how to install the GIpro X-type gear indicator into the Gen II dash.
So here is the vid:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lONv-hcK32Y]BRICO: INSTALACION INDICADOR MARCHA EN VELOCIMETRO EN YAMAHA FZ6 S2.[/ame]

Now, I've typed the words on the vid into google's translator, it's a bit rough as most is litoral except for a few where I worked out that google put the translated words in the wrong order. So there may be a few with the words jumbled...

------
00:06 [this is a time stamp for you to refer back to if you loose track]
DIY

INSTALLATION OF A
GEAR INDICATOR
IN THE PANEL

YAMAHA FZ6 S2

carlosn888
------
00:12
Previous installation
------
00:24
Remove 3 screws top
------
00:38
remove 3 screws from the speedometer box
------
01:00
extract connector
------
01:12
We released the speedometer
------
01:23
we take gear indicator
------
01:31
started to remove the speedometer (on a black screen)
------
01:42
remove all screws
------
01:50
top out
------
02:04
we take the circuit
------
02:18
REMOVE THE NEEDLE HOLDING IT (next black screen)
by the black circle and throw up strong (i think it means pull up hard)
------
02:35
the 2 screws out
------
02:43
now work with numerical cap (the tacho dial)
------
02:57
MAKE A COPY OF THE SAME SIZE AS THE PROGRESS INDICATOR (refers to the gear indicator)(next black screen)
paper tape (use masking tape)
------
03:14
WHERE WE DO MARK HOLE FOR INDICATOR (next black screen)
------
03:30
We stress BLADE WITH PAPER TEMPLATE (next black screen)
AND NOW WE CAN REMOVE
------
03:47
PUT TAPE BLADE MARKED AS
------
03:59
WITH A COTTON SWAB AND NAIL POLISH REMOVING PAINT WE
------
04:10
USE TAPE
RIGHT TO THE
VERTICES (edge maybe?)
------
04:27
WE HAVE ALREADY AHEAD
------
04:38
THE SAME OPERATION FOR
BACK
------
04:49
TOP AFFIX (NEXT BLACK SCREEN)
NUMERICAL, SPEEDOMETER
WELL WHERE AND FOUND
WILL MAKE THE HOLLOW
MARKING
------
05:12
WE USE A DREMEL SURPLUS TO CUT PLASTIC
------
05:36
WE HAVE THE HOLLOW
------
05:47
DESOLDERING THE 10 INDICATOR PINS
------
05:59
LENGTHENED WITH WIRE 20CM.
------
06:20
WE CLEAR TAPE DOUBLE SIDED ON THE SCREEN
------
06:39
WE STUCK IN PLACE
------
07:06
WE PLACE NUMBERING IN THE SPEEDOMETER
------
07:26
SCREWED DOWN
------
07:36
PUT THE NEEDLE
------
07:47
PRINTED CIRCUIT STICK SIDED TAPE (tape the pcb down)
------
08:42
WE PUT ALL SCREWS
------
09:15
INTRODUCE CONNECTOR TO SPEEDOMETER THE MOTORCYCLE
------
09:28
BECOME PUT THE SCREWS IN SUPPORT
------
09:38
AND FINALLY THE TOP
------
09:48
WORK COMPLETED
WATCH VIDEO OF OPERATION
IN YOUTUBE
SEARCH IN: CARLOSN888
------


So to answer Blanchy's question on what chemical to use on the dash facia, they say to use nail polish remover, which is just Acetone.
I would try a bit on the back and make sure the acetone is not too strong and is only going to take the paint off and not melt or deform the plastic dash panel first.
 
Last edited:
Got mine working

I think it was easier thant working out how to post a video!
This was through the aftermarket Facia (too dim in sunlight)
018.AVI - YouTube

This is what I've ended up with sorry about the quality but juggling clutch throttle and camera was hard!
038 - YouTube

Should I post a blow by blow on how I did mine?:yes:
 
Looks good Blanchy!

So post up some more details and pictures of your install. Specifically which model did you order. You mentioned something about having to special order it...
 
NJFZ1 said:
Looks good Blanchy!

So post up some more details and pictures of your install. Specifically which model did you order. You mentioned something about having to special order it...
Click to expand...
Sorry guys been for a ride. it works great. Need a bit of help to post this. How do I type text and then attach a photo? Then type text again etc? I don't just want a whole lot of photos then text.
 
Bogie said:
And someone send me an address to mail a dash to when I get one!!! LMAO!!!
Click to expand...
I don't think you'll find someone other than an instrument maker thats going to install it for you. But if you take your time it can be done. Please wait for a bit while I work out how to post an "How I did it"
 
Can someone explain to me the benefit of having a gear indicator? Not bashing, I really want to know. I have never felt the need to konw what gear I am in.
 
Blanchy said:
I don't think you'll find someone other than an instrument maker thats going to install it for you. But if you take your time it can be done. Please wait for a bit while I work out how to post an "How I did it"
Click to expand...


Thanks mate! If you do that I can probably get my friend that I am at right now in WI to give me a hand. He's a crazy brit that loves a challenge. LOL
 
Bogie said:
Thanks mate! If you do that I can probably get my friend that I am at right now in WI to give me a hand. He's a crazy brit that loves a challenge. LOL
Click to expand...

Wow! You have a crazy Brit as a friend too??!! I have one of those too!! He's a member here on the board. Ray (CanonFuji). I bust his chops endlessly but he's a good sport about it, very generous too!
 
Blanchy said:
Anybody gonna help with how to post photo then text the photo ect I'm no nerd
Click to expand...

Sure! I'm a nerd. Just upload the photo to a site like Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket first. Then once it's up, just click on the "direct link" option when you pass your mouse over the photo. You'll see a box open when your mouse goes on top of the photo. Then come here and in your post you will type
at the end of the link you just pasted. So for example:


That's all there is to it. Now go and try it. If successful, I'll be calling you a nerd!!!!
 
FZ1riderNY said:
Wow! You have a crazy Brit as a friend too??!! I have one of those too!! He's a member here on the board. Ray (CanonFuji). I bust his chops endlessly but he's a good sport about it, very generous too!
Click to expand...

Yeah mine is a great guy too. Been in the states about 11 yrs now. Loves motorcycles. He has an 06 R1 Anniversary that he has sunk a ton of money into over the last 6 years. Been there to help with quite a bit of it.

2011 Bike of the Year on the Motomummy Forum. Check out the list of goodies on his bike after the pics. :cheers:

My ongoing project - MotoMummy Forum
 
Hail said:
Can someone explain to me the benefit of having a gear indicator? Not bashing, I really want to know. I have never felt the need to konw what gear I am in.
Click to expand...

Once you have one you can't do without it.
My last bike, a 2006 GSX-R1000 had one and I've been hooked ever since.
It is really nice to be able to glance at the gauges to see exactly what gear you are in, instantly.
Every bike I own from now on will have one.
 
Last edited:
Hail said:
Can someone explain to me the benefit of having a gear indicator? Not bashing, I really want to know. I have never felt the need to konw what gear I am in.
Click to expand...

Let's say I'm crusing along and I come up on some traffic. I don't downshift so the engine is lugging in a higher gear than I would normally have it in for the speed I'm going. I'm behind them for a while when an unexpected small gap opens up and I've got a chance to safely pass, but I don't remember what gear I'm in.

I could start dropping gears, seeing how much the revs went up with each downshift, looking for for whatever gear I want to pass in while wasting passing lane and time, or... Put a gear indicator on my bike, now I just pull in the clutch and drop however many gears are needed to get into my passing gear. It's certainly not needed but it helps with my less than stellar memory.
 
How I did Mine (Not how to do it)

As the title says I'm sure with 20 20 hindsight it can be done better but this is how I did it.

I emailed Healtech Hungary asking about the size of their unit and explaining my plan. Norbert replied that they could make a custom mini remote which I went for.

001.jpg

The large box on the left is the normal size. The one on the right is the mini remote. You can have the wiring between the two any length you like and round or flat. I went round and 200mm (If you are doing an N model, get 600mm to 700mm so you can hide the main unit under the tank. You need a harness kit to suit For FZ1 its GPX-Y01 which Healtech sent with mine.

Connect the wiring as per instructions. This is straight forward but If you have an S model I suggest you route the wiring via the fairing support on the steering head. This will make installing and removing the fairing much easier.

Ok I'll assume you can remove the dash, Remove all the screws around the perimiter on the back side. You can now remove the cover. All the internals should remain in place if you have left the four screws around the middle part of the Tach. Rotate the needle to about 10k rpm by hand. It will then automatically keep going to its "Park position" mark this position and take photos. Place some tape over the middle of the needle (so it doesn't disappear) also if you are not going to paint the facia screws a little tape on the two of them to protect them. It should look like this.

010.jpg


Get two small tea spoons, you want the fulcrum to be on the two screws that retain the facia and carefully lever the needle off applying even pressure to both sides. You will hear some creaking and it will pop off.

Remove the two screws and the Facia. Now get your remote and work out where you want to position it.

014.jpg


The bottom left hole on Australian models is not used for displays. I suggest you check yours. You can see the little LEDs in the bottom of the ones that are used.
Mark out where you want to cut. I used a pencil. I made sure the I was far enough left to not disturb the neutral light and far enough right to leave the little key symblol on the facia.
Check that you're right as many times as it takes because next its time to cut.
I used a round bit like a tiny die grinder bit in a dremmel, carefully cut inside your marks. The plastic is only about 1mm thick so don't go hard. finish cutting with a hobby knife. You want the hole to be as close a fit to the remote as you can get. You will need to remove the mounting screw directly under at this point to get enough depth. You want the remote to sit flush with top surface. Once your happy with the fit, reinstall the mount screw and measure the bit sticking through. Remove the screw and shorten it. Clean every thing up, don't want bits of plastic floating around.

017.jpg


The bottom of that shot shows my first stuff up! I was so worried about touching the electronics with the tip of the dremmel that the chuck touched the casing. I then decided that was where the cable would exit but I hate a mistake dictating what to do so be warned.
At this point you have to decide to go the Carlo888 way ie stick the unit to the facia or what I did which is.
I decided so that I can change facias I would glue the unit in place. As I don't know what types of plastic I was dealing with I purchased this stuff.

021.jpg


Which will glue the really hard to glue plastics. I masked the remote and around the face of the tach with insulation tape, removed the double sided tape on the under side of the remote, primed the remote and the unit and glued it in. The Glue says it sets within 2 to 30 seconds but mine set almost instantly. Luckily it was in the right spot.

024.jpg


Next trace around your facia to make a template.

026.jpg


Place your template over the unit and mark where the corners of the remote are.

027.jpg


Draw the rectangle and cut inside the lines.

029.jpg


Check your cut out and then transfer if to your facia. I was using the aftermarket at this stage and will post on how to do this to the OEM later.

030.jpg


20 20 Hindesight here I cut square corners. It would look much more profesional to have a radius on the corners. A set of hole punch pliers would work on the aftermarket facia. I tried this with the waste cut out.

Check out your cut out. Mine measured 9.6mm by 15.4mm this is about the minimum.

Now its up to you where you want to route the cable but as said before a mistake dictated mine I just extended the cut in the shell so the cable did not have a very sharp turn.

Reinstall the facia, at the "Park Position" reinstall the needle.Take the needle by hand back toward the stop.

032.jpg


Don't push it on too hard it needs some clearance or you will sh!t yourself when the tach does not work (beleive me)

033.jpg


Before you close up test install the dash. You will need to temporary install the fairing. Chech the tach works properly. If not do the "Park Pos" thing again back to your mark.

If everythings okay clean everything, a fingerprint on the inside of your display will annoy. I used some NON acidic silicon on the bottom case and inside the top case where the cable exits. screwed it all up and mounted it.

034.jpg


037.jpg


And it works. As I said some Hindesight. I would radius the corners on the cut out or the clear window. I would also ask Healtech if the units could be separated with a plug on the main and a ready to reassemble socket on the remote so you could drill a round hole in the base case and pass the cable through and close up with a grommet. Every extra will cost though and its very hard to see my wiring anyway. Also removing the stop pin. It is split in the bottom so with your finger nails sqeeze it together and with your other hand your can pull it out. Don't just pull it out or it will be damaged. When installing the pin on an aftermarket Facia it will be a bit loose. This does not affect the operation and is not noticable but if you're pedantic you might be able to tighten it up with a very tiny "O"ring or washer on the back side.

Good luck and no resposibility taken or implied

For the N model please think about how long you want the wiring from the "Remote" to the main unit. I did one with 600mm which is just enough to get al the bulky connections under the tank. I would recommend at least 700mm.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top