Gear Indicator

didier9

Well-Known Member
Just received this gear indicator, have not installed it yet. It is advertised for the gen 2, but I do not see why it would not work with the gen 1.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121325993344?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

It is much cheaper than the GIPro, yet seems to have similar features (works from tach and speedo signals, not the shift lever)

It has a dedicated "learn" wire, that is much easier than the convoluted process with the ignition switch of the GIPro.

Installation instructions are limited, but googling FZ1 Gear Indicator will yield several useful links.

I will report once I have it working.
s-l140.jpg
 
$19 is dirt cheap. If it works I will buy one same day. There is one guy on YouTube that installed his inside the tach.

[video=youtube;63eT6F27zuQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63eT6F27zuQ[/video]
 
I am more directly interested in the downshifts rather than the upshifts, although I can use either to get what is needed. Mostly to avoid going to neutral thinking I was downshifting to second to make a turn.
 
Im interested...let us know if its plug and play...i dont like splicing wires...
Nothing is plug and play. Right now I am looking at my options, either get to the harness behind the dash, or under the tank. Behind the dash would be cleaner, but I need to make sure I can identify the wires. I like to think about that stuff before I start cutting anything, so it will take a little while.

sent from my Moto-X on Tapatalk
 
You need to tap/cut into a hot wire for power. If you connect directly to the battery it can run it down after two weeks of sitting because if the constant power drain while in hibernation.
I used the supplied splice connectors. I didn't go to the battery. I was saying that I didn't cut any wires.
 
I finally installed the gear indicator. Of course, you do not have to "cut into the wiring" but I am reluctant to use the plastic splices because they tend to work for a while then become intermittent.
I ended up stripping a short length of the wires I wanted to connect to and solder a pigtail harness to a DA-9 connector. The mate of the DA-9 is connected to the GI.

I did this at the connections under the left fairing insert (picture attached)
I have attached the pinouts for the two connectors going to the fairing harness:
2016-01-17 15.18.37.jpg.
Then I protected the solder joints with electrical tape.

I have annotated the schematic diagram with pin functions.
CORD HEADLIGHT 1.pngCORD HEADLIGHT 2.png

I tapped the wires as indicated:
tach: Connector B, Y/B
speedo: Connector B, W
neutral: Connector A, Sb/Y
+12V: Connector A, L/Y
Ground: Connector A, B

I had a hard time getting the device to calibrate. I looked at the speedo and tach signals with an oscilloscope and they are a little noisy. I suppose the noise is confusing the device. At the moment, it is calibrated but it took much longer than I think it should have. I may try to put some filtering to see if that makes it easier. Otherwise, it seems to be working fine. It reports a gear change practically instantly (if there is a delay, it is shorter than my brain realizes).

Important note: when I plugged the device the first time, it did not power up. I took it in the shack and powered it from a bench supply. The current consumption was very low and I could see some of the LED segments flashing very dimly. I wrote to the ebay seller to ask him what to do, expecting he would send me away since I bought the gizmo in October. He replied quickly saying he was going to send me another one and did not ask me to send this one back. Since I had nothing to lose, I took it apart. It turns out that the device is fairly well made, except for the soldering of the 7 segment display, which was extremely poor. After touching up the solder joints to the 7 segment display, the device powered just fine. It is possible that the calibration difficulties come from more bad solder joints, but other than the display, everything else is surface mounted and the soldering on that looks fine. Alternately, it may be that they skimped on filtering of the tach and speedo signals. I cannot imagine that they would skimp on anything that sells for $19 with shipping from China...
 

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