Fz1 Euro Headlight Convesion Kit (GET NAKED)

Here is the break down for the Fz1n Euro Headlight Conversion kit. I did the install yesterday and this is all by memory while it is still fresh. Motovation has a good write up with pics on the other yamahafz10a site, but he was trouble shooting as he went so you had to read through a ton of posts to get to the info. I think this should have everything in one post. If you have anyways you did it different let me know. Pictures to come. I need to go back and clean up the wiring and will take them then.

I bought from Partshark
http://www.partshark.com/catalog_product_detail.asp?cat=5661-70510&product=906959


Remove all the old hardware.
1. Remove windshield and wrap up in foam or bubble wrap
2. Remove inner fairing cowls.
3. Remove mirrors (2 bolts on each, and watch out for the SS inner collar)
4. Remove the turn signals (remove the plastic clips) (I marked my right side with red electrical tape and taped to the right headlight plug, this is helpful later)
5. Remove fairings (be mindful to detach the wiring harness from the inside of the fairing)
6. Remove the headlights (mark the right and left)
7. Remove the Speedo Gauge Cluster (you don’t have to remove from wiring harness)
8. Remove the Fairing Stay
9. Remove the steel wire brackets on left and right (I had to snip the left side ones to get off)



Prep of remaining parts
1. Remove the horn (either completely or let hang)
2. Remove the bolt holding the y joint for the front brakes
3. Remove the clutch cable
4. Remove the headlight/turn signal instrument mount from the handlebar
5. Optional: Remove the brake lines (Ideally you’d swap for SS lines, the factory line is zip tied to the fork and interferes with the new fairing stay, upon further thought, if you cut the zip tie and ran the stock brake line though the little bracket cage on that side it would just fine. )



Prep of the Headlight kit
1. On the new fairing stay use 3 of the rubber grommets to put in the top rings that will mount the Speedo cluster
2. Use the other 4 rubber grommets on the left and right naked fairing brackets
3. Mount the left and right fairing brackets on to the back of the headlight by threading the posts through the rubber grommet. (the end with the turn signal hole goes to the top or the squared end of the headlight)
4. Use the silver Phillips screws with washers to screw down the headlight to the left and right fairing. *(If you are using the euro wiring harness and brow lights then you need to screw the holding plates for the turn signal plugs down, it should be self evident how it fits and they will help with the stability of the setup.)
5. I got rid of the euro harness, if you keep it then you would use the black screws to mount the two metal brackets that hold the plugs for the turn signals.
6. Mount the turn signals that you’ll be using and prep the wires for easy plug in.
7. I also swapped the halogen H4 for a xenon super white bulb while this was off. I kind of wish I went with a PIAA or an HID setup. The light from the single xenon is good about the same as the single headlight (pre-BD43 dual headlight mod) but I could do with a little more.



Install of new stuff.
1. Note: there is a lot of variability to how to run the wires, the only one I was really concerned about was the clutch cable, I wanted to make sure that had the easiest travel, I have noticed that there is some change in play at full turn right, but going straight is no problem. I am going to see if I can take the Euro harness to a connector fabricator shop and see if I can get a custom made setup to use it and the brow lights.

2. Put on new fairing stay (bracket). The throttle cables and brake line goes into a grove on the right side of the bracket (left when looking at it). The left side is trickier, ideally you would run both the clutch cable and headlight/turn signal line through the bracket, I just pushed the lighting wire out of the way and ran the clutch cable through the bracket. Reattach your clutch cable and lighting wire harness and if it allows for full movement I figured ok. Edit: I would also swap for SS braided lines as the stock lines get in the way and actually the full euro naked brakes lines are 3" and 2" longer than the faired versoin.

3. I re-used the 8mm bolts that were holding the steel wire brackets in place to mount the top half of the new fairing stay

4. I used the black 8mm bolts that came with the kit on the lower bracket. *** note be sure to put the fairing stay to the triple and then the horn over the top otherwise the angle of light will be way screwed up.*** I installed the horn side first (right side while looking at it) and then the other side (left side looking at it) and finally remounted the brake line bolt (for now, I’m getting SS lines installed next week when I get my new Master cylinder. **** if you keep the factory brake lines, odds are it will interfere with the right side of the new fairing bracket. ***

5. Check and make sure everything is secure (I did not use lock-tite but am considering it and would appreciate opinions)

6. Now you are ready for the Speedo Cluster. Fit it through the rubber grommets and secure with the Phillips screw with washer. There is a groove on the left (facing the headlight) the is for running the speedo wiring harness through.

7. Fit the speedo cover to the back of the speedo and secure using the security bolts (5/32 hex bolts, short ones)

8. Now you are ready for the headlight **** If using the original wiring harness Yamaha Part Number: 3C3-84359-10-00 (Partshark $90) either headlight plug will work, I think I used the right because it brought the right side turn signal closer to the opening on the naked fairing bracket for the turn signal.**** plug the wiring harness into the headlight and turn signals (you may need to run an extension from the left side plug to be able to get it up there, I’m using aftermarket lights and had extra line already). Turn on the bike and check the high and low beam, then the turn signals and that the speedo-cluster is working properly.

9. Slide the headlight fairing brackets onto the fairing stay. Use the bigger 5/32 hex bolts to install. I slipped a few times and would recommend that you hold up the headlight and just start the threads on the top left and then right side. After they are hand snug, then I would do the bottom left and right. Turn the bike back on and check the angle (was an issue for me because I still had the stock brake line on there in the way (thinking about it, maybe if you take it off the fork and run it through the fairing stay (facing left side wire bracket) it would work better). Once you feel you have a good angle use the 5/32 hex key to finish tightening and making sure that the light direction is where you want it.

10. Microfiber cleaning towel off any or all smudges and you are ready to go.


NOTE: I did not use the brow lights, yet. I am going to take the Euro Harness to a electrical connector guy and see if we can test it out, to determine if I can get a matching male plug that I can wire up. Luckily the guy that I’ve ridden with for both of my crashes is an electrical engineer. I suck at wiring stuff.
 
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...OR, order all of the parts from Yamaha Canada at the same time as you order your new FZ1. When the bike gets to the dealership, have them remove all of the body parts and send them to the paint shop. When the tank and fender get back from paint, have the factory trained Yamaha techs at the dealership put it all together before the PDI.

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Sorry, I'm not hijacking your thread to be a turd. I loved the look of the N version from the first time I saw it. I was actually shopping for an FZ8 when someone told me I could make an FZ1 naked and "have it all."
Congrats on the conversion, and welcome to the club. People are going to notice that bike everywhere you go. I never get away from lunch on a ride without having to answer a few questions about my bike. (It's not a chore.) My favorite one ever was the guy with a stock FZ1 who told me he really liked the look of my bike, and then asked what it was.
Enjoy the bike, and the looks it gets!
 
No worries. I didn't even know that was an option to have Yamaha people do it. I asked my local shop if they have ever done the naked conversion and they were like "uhhhh no, we did have somebody with an Fz6 order all the parts from europe and he wanted us to install a naked setup, but he was always missing something so it took like 3 months to finish"

So for what took me between 2-3 hours with next to no mechanical experience I thought was pretty cool. I thought the list would also help anybody else considering it but afraid of the whole process. Also I did my conversion on a 3 year old bike with 5000 miles for half the price out the door of a brand new one.
 
Yeah, the labour would have killed me if I had shown up with a bike and a box of parts. I only did it that way because I was getting a new bike anyway, so it was easy to build in to the deal. Also, I think it's sort of neat that I ride what might be the only dealer-delivered FZ1-N on the continent. Either way, I wouldn't want any other bike. It's been great.
 
Sort of. The FZ1N is a little elusive in North America, though. I couldn't be terribly critical. When I bought my 6R, the sales guy told me I'd be buying an FZ1 within 2 years. At that time I said "nah, I don't like the look! They'll have to make it look way different to catch my eye." I had never seen an FZ1N. 2 years later I was in the dealership, ordering a '12 and all of the parts for the conversion.
 
I took my FZ1 to my local dealer. No one I talked to there had even heard of the FZ1N, so that was out the window for me.

I had the same experience. Hence why I'm doing it on my own. It really is easy and if you go through with it, let me know how the list works so that I can edit it.
 
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Sort of. The FZ1N is a little elusive in North America, though. I couldn't be terribly critical. When I bought my 6R, the sales guy told me I'd be buying an FZ1 within 2 years. At that time I said "nah, I don't like the look! They'll have to make it look way different to catch my eye." I had never seen an FZ1N. 2 years later I was in the dealership, ordering a '12 and all of the parts for the conversion.
You cheated. Just joking love the N look but the deal I got for my S I had to buy it.
 
Just wondering - does anyone have any pictures of the N radiator guards versus the stock ones that come on the NA FZ1? the kit is like 130 bucks more with the radiator guards id just like to see what id be getting


also -- anyone have a partshark coupon code?

much appreciated.
 
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Just wondering - does anyone have any pictures of the N radiator guards versus the stock ones that come on the NA FZ1? the kit is like 130 bucks more with the radiator guards id just like to see what id be getting


also -- anyone have a partshark coupon code?

much appreciated.

Here's my bike with N rad guards.
 
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So looking back at my initial install instruction you need the following fasteners.

7 rubber grommets (4 for mounting the headlight bracket and 3 for mounting the speedo cluster)
4 8mm bolts for mountin fairing stay (wire harness) to the triples
3 Phillips screw for mounting the speedo the fairing stay (harness)
3 5/32 hex screws for mounting the speedo cover
4 phillips screw with attached washer to attach fairing bracket to headlight
4 larger 5/32 hex screws to attach the fairing brackets to the fairing stay.
 
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