Clutch cable problems?

Matt C.

Well-Known Member
Hey guys,

I rode the bike to work this morning like every morning and all was well. I havent fooled with the clutch lever at all. It seemed to engage at towards the end of the lever pull. In other words, I didnt have to pull the lever much at all to engage it. I left work today, all was still the same. But after I fueled up, I got back on the bike and noticed that the clutch engaged much closer to the handlebars. I damn near choked to bike down a couple times in the 5 mile ride home. There is also 1/2" of movement in the lever. Can someone tell me how it changes like that? I dont think I moved the adjustment screw. Also, can anyone give me a guide to how the lever should act. How much free play should I have? And where in the lever range should the clutch engage?

Thanks

Matt
 
Hey guys,

I rode the bike to work this morning like every morning and all was well. I havent fooled with the clutch lever at all. It seemed to engage at towards the end of the lever pull. In other words, I didnt have to pull the lever much at all to engage it. I left work today, all was still the same. But after I fueled up, I got back on the bike and noticed that the clutch engaged much closer to the handlebars. I damn near choked to bike down a couple times in the 5 mile ride home. There is also 1/2" of movement in the lever. Can someone tell me how it changes like that? I dont think I moved the adjustment screw. Also, can anyone give me a guide to how the lever should act. How much free play should I have? And where in the lever range should the clutch engage?

Thanks

Matt

Usually there should only be maybe an 1/8" or less of free play on your clutch lever, so 1/2" is way too much. I'm assuming that you mean "1/2" of "free play". Is it possible to snap a pic of both the cable at the handlebar and also at the clutch case cover? We may be able to spot something that you aren't seeing. I remember my GenI engaged the clutch after only an inch of "pull" on the lever. Not sure if the GenII's were the same spec but from the way you said it was originally I suspect that they were both almost the same.
 
It's not quite 1/2" more like 1/8" - 1/4". I apologize. I was trying to go off what I remembered when riding but I went back out for another look. I have to pull the lever more than 1/2 way in before the clutch engages.
 
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It's not quite 1/2" more like 1/8" - 1/4". I apologize. I was trying to go off what I remembered when riding but I went back out for another look. I have to pull the lever more than 1/2 way in before the clutch engages.

Well from the engine side of things it looks like your points are lined up correctly. I would definitely turn your handlebar adjuster couter clockwise to bring that gap in to "0". That should have you back to the old feel on the clutch lever. While your at it I would lube the line as well.
 
Thank you very much. Could you explain the cable lube process to me. That gap stays there no matter how much I turn the adjuster. It sounds like the cable is scratching on something too. I guess if it broke there would be lots of free play. So I guess I'll just drive it and see.

Matt
 
Thank you very much. Could you explain the cable lube process to me. That gap stays there no matter how much I turn the adjuster. It sounds like the cable is scratching on something too. I guess if it broke there would be lots of free play. So I guess I'll just drive it and see.

Matt

Hey, no problem. If you turn the adjuster all the way "in", you'll be able to see the opening in the head of the cable. You can then take the straw end of a can of WD-40 or similar lube and get the tip into the top of the cable end and spray it liberally for a few seconds and let it work it's way down the cable. I took an exacto knife and cut a "slash" in the end of the WD-40 tube end to get it to fit better into the cable head. You can also get a syringe from the pharmacy and fill it with lube and inject it into the cable as well. Work it down a little at a time and squeeze the lever periodically and it will work it's way down. You should do the same for your brake cable on the other side too.
 
While lubing the cable, which isnt easy in itself, I felt a pop and lost most of the pull of the cable again. It seemed to have popped out of the lower part by the clutch cover. I got that back in and got the top back in but still have barely any movement of the lower part and lots of freeplay at the top. I can pull the lever damn near halfway before I get any pull of the lower spring thingy.

Broken cable? Please help

Matt
 
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Sounds to me like your cable is fraying inside , that would explain scatchy sound and sudden free play ,
As said above , adust out slack and see how it goes , but sounds like its stretching and time for a new one .
 
You need a new cable bro.....that cable is done for. Would change it asap before it does any damage to clutch plates. An oem cable cost about 30-40 bucks from partshark.com
 
Yep, like the others said it's time for a new cable bud. Not to worry. It's a pinch to change out and you'll be up and running with a smooth lever in no time. Better you found out now than on the road!

Oh, and like said, Partshark.com is the way to go for inexpensive OEM parts.
 
Alright guys, how do I go about this change? I have tried to read some on the subject. I have read where I need to pull the tank, then some say no. I have room to pull it and all the tools I'll need.

Thanks

Matt
 
Its not a difficult job just requires some patience, elbow grease and a little know how. I did mine on my 06 on my own, just make sure that u route it exactly as the old one was routed especially near the triple tree so that it doesnt get crushed or crimped.

I substituted mine with and 04-06 clutch cable, because at the time i couldn't get my hands on an oem cable, at the time, i later got one but love the feel of the r1 cable better. The r1 cable is abit shorter than the fz1 oem but because u can adjust at the lever, engine and clutch end (great thing which yahama did) i was able to fit it.

Just remember clutch cable care is key, especially after washing your bike and riding in the rain, u need to lube the cable heads after.
 
I have pulled the tank to try and get an easier look at the cable routing. It seems to snake under the airbox along the left side of the frame. I havent removed it yet. I going to wait until I get the new cable in to look at them.

I am still clueless as to the install of the ends. Is there a trick to getting them in correctly?

Matt
 
I have pulled the tank to try and get an easier look at the cable routing. It seems to snake under the airbox along the left side of the frame. I havent removed it yet. I going to wait until I get the new cable in to look at them.

I am still clueless as to the install of the ends. Is there a trick to getting them in correctly?

Matt

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WtpjD4tu6vM]How To Change A Clutch Cable On A 650 V-star - YouTube[/ame]

Check out this video Matt. While it isn't the same bike, it's basically the same premise when undoing the ends. Mark your old cable with a marker so you can set the new cable up as close to the same as possible. Trust me when I say it's not hard at all to do on your own.
 
On the FZ1 there are 2 clutch cable adjusters
1 at the lever and 1 under the tank . I had similar issue with mine (guess the cable had stretched too much). Adjustments on the lever side did little to get rid of excessive free play .
Try the adjuster in the middle of the cable just under the tank. Bit of a bugger to get at but that should solve it for you.
 
Thanks guys for all your help. I got the new cable in today. It takes a bit of patience and and adjusting to get it where you want it but its not a hard job. The clutch is smooth.

I am fairly sure that I am to blame for the broken cable. I installed FZ8 risers and the was a tight spot due to the low bar position. I have hopefully fixed that with a little smarter routing.

Thanks again

Matt
 
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