Chain Questions

TimeBombAZ said:
First off, how do I know if I need a new one?


Secondly, how long does the stock chain *normally* last?
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I am no expert, but...

When you are at the last few marks on your chain adjuster your chain has stretched (worn) to near its usefull life. I also find that sprockets are showing signs of serious wear about this time as well.
 
As Old School said a chain wear gauge is the best way to know. Another way is to look for hooking of you sprockets. Instead of the tooth looking even, it will look uneven from the wear on the pulling side of the tooth, where the chain contacts.

How long they last depends on how well you take care of it; clean, lube, adjust. Rule of thumb, a slightly looser chain is better than a too tight one. And lube it frequently.

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Another check is to grab the chain at the midway point on the rear sprocket and pull away from sprocket. If you can pull it more than 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch is is getting worn. Also good to replace sprockets at the time you replace chain or the hooks on worn sprockets will wear your new chain much faster. +1 on lube often
 
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I expect my chain to last 20 to 25000km. I have recently replaced already my front sprocket at 11000km, as recommended by my dealer (reasoning is because the frontsprocket rotates 3X more than the rear) I will evaluate if this was worthwhile doing. (the cost was not that excessive)

Liftime of your chain can be prolongued by regular maintenance (cleaning/greasing/adjusting on time) and ofcourse your riding style will have an impact on the wear of your chain.

In addition mentioned by OneSize, the state of your sprocketteeth are also an indicator, i.e. when they become having the shape like sharkfins, time to replace.
And indeed, replacing a chain includes (recommended) to replace at the same time your both sprockets....
 
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The first and likely most noticable thing most riders notice is a slight perceptable 'lean' to the rear sprocket teeth. At this point as DenArnold said, the front sprocket will likely be showing this phenomenon... ie. dished, cupped and leaning teeth. Being covered all the time by the sidecover, it's often times not noticed in time. As OldSchool also said, 'streach' will of had to facilitate the need of re-adjusting the chain/axle to the point where its getting near the rearmost increments of the adjusters. The chain may start to show signs of corrosion ie. rusting and the center rollers will have become loose in their orbit on the center pin, this you should be able to feel with your finger rubbing it along the chain rollers, it will feel like they spin some to the feel. Ultimatly mileage will probably be the foremost indicator of the proper time to start addressing changing both chain and sprokets, all as a unit

After all the power that is available above 6K and really robust above 8K has to be brutal on the streach of the chain link plates. My guess on a number in 'miles', is that at around 10,000 miles, one should be watching a bit closely, and should have by then had to adjust the chain two or three times. Second only to tires and cables, the chain is probably most overlooked item on a bike. Also relegiously using chain lube will greatly increase chain life to be sure. Another tale-tale thing a veteran motorcyclest will notice is the noise coming from a chain thats worn, it will be distinctly noisy, something that one who has alot of bike experiance will learn to 'hear'. What causes this is the loose centerpin loading under presure and un-loading as the tooth exits the space between the links/pins. Also, imagine if you will... the pin in the chain, that piece that is rivited, has a outer roller.... when the outer roller wears and the pin wears the inside diamiter of the roller becomes larger and the pin diameter becomes smaller, thuss the fit becomes loose, thus noise due to larger clearances.

Ok, I'v made a bit complex, but really its not. Picture a chain and its componant pieces that it is built of. link plates, center pins, and rollers along with 'O' rings. Imagine the forces put into play and the surfaces where the presure is most placed......... Ultimatly. .....chain lube is VERRY verry important, Learn to use it liberally even if it is messy. It's the difference between a 5K chain and a 15K chain, no lube......metal to metal...not good for chains.
 
Look for binding in the chain... while cleaning it, move the links up and down. You're looking to ensure that they're all moving freely... if they hang in one position, or "kink" after cleaning, the chain is trash.

Chain / Sprockets should all be replaced as a matched set. You *can* replace just one component of the 3, but that will cause increased wear... The chain wears into the sprockets and vice-versa... if you don't replace them all at the same time, the wear will not be consistent, and if you let your old chain chunk up your sprockets a bit and just replace the chain, well, the new chain will get chunked up by the old sprockets...

Use only a rivet link chain. Buy yourself a chain tool. It's worth every penny.
 
Here are some excellent BAD examples of the chain and sprockets. You can see the issues with the teeth as well as the chain with rust, missing or cracked O-Rings, etc.... Sprockets and chain, September 2009

These are way beyond when you'd want to replace them in my opinion, but this does show you what to look for as signs of trouble.
 
FZ1inNH said:
Here are some excellent BAD examples of the chain and sprockets. You can see the issues with the teeth as well as the chain with rust, missing or cracked O-Rings, etc.... Sprockets and chain, September 2009

These are way beyond when you'd want to replace them in my opinion, but this does show you what to look for as signs of trouble.
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Those are BRUTAL. Why anyone would allow their equipment to get that bad is beyond me! The teeth were starting to bend! I hope they were wearing a bag on their head when they went to get them replaced.:kuku:
 
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