Battery not receiving correct voltage/ possible short or drain??

Volgen83

Volgen83

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HI all,

I'm after advice/help and have tried almost everything i can think of, have rang around local motorcycle garages and most if not all seem reluctant to help or are unable top.

bit of background on the issue.....

A few months ago my battery went flat, charged the battery and flat again, so out cam the multi meter and found i was not receiving any voltage to the battery from the charging circuit.
traced the fault to the stator.

as mine is an 06 gen2 i first suspected the magnets had come away from inside the stator housing, but i wasn't heading any new rattles or vibration but decided to check it out, all was good as far as i could see with the stator magnets, all on good condition, no wear lines or loose broken bits. so i assumed the actual coil had gone bad. after testing the 3 phases (white wires) one was not giving a reading so replaced the stator coil and the rectifier for good measure.

Now....

I have good voltage from the stator in AC (63V) and climbing as i increase the revs
the rectifier is giving out 13.2 DC at idle and goes upto about 14.7 at 4.5k revs but when i take the readings from the battery terminals (not the cable connectors) im getting 12.8 volts at 4.5k rpm much less than i should be from what i have read in the service manual and online.

replaced the battery, no change.
replaced the ground lead from the battery to the engine, no change
mocked up a bypass to go direct from the rectifier to the battery to see if the plug was pad from the rectifier, no change.
have had the tank air box and most of the front end off to check connectors and clean them, also very carefully unwrapped the wiring harness (which is a pain in the ass) to see if i could find any signs of exposed wire/short and can't find anything out of the ordinary.

replaced the ignition coils as 2 weeks ago i lost a cylinder and the error log on the speedo showed, a power fault and open open circuit on coil 1.
replaced all the coils and treated myself to new spark plugs as it made sense to do it anyway.

i still have the error codes, 33 and 46.

currently running with the main headlight fuse out to conserve voltage which is helping to keep the battery running for now, not ideal i know but at the moment its lighter for longer during the day so not an issue yet.

i have tried taking fuses out to see if the voltage increases, no luck there.

have also tried as best as i can to disconnect lighting plugs etc that i can get too, one by one to see if i gain any substantial voltage increases, no real joy.

i am out of ideas and technical ability at this point and am even considering just binning it for parts and replacing the bike all together out of frustration.

Any help or insight will be very veeeery much appreciated, thanks
 
Reading through your post / diagnostics so far the only thing left is a break or bad connection in the positive lead from the rectifier to the battery , have you done a resistance test on the power lead from rectifer to battery , Check all fuse connections too .
 
HI Delbert,

So sorry for the slow reply, been hectic lately.

have just in the last 10 minutes tested the resistance from the positive end of the rectifier plug too the battery positive and the reading was 0.04 ohms may have been mili ohms, may have to re test.

starting voltage was 12.88 ignition off, ignition on 12.26V and engine running in idle was 12.09V, rev'd upto 4.5k rpm and got upto 12.78V

fans were running as i have just got home.
 
Any luck yet ? ,, if you have 14.7 at the rectifier but dropping off to 12 something at the battery it has to be a bad cable or connection in between , have you checked the earth cable from the rectifier? It runs direct to the top of the engine crank case
 
Hi Delbert,

Not sure if i have.... worth doing, will let you know.

Will have a look at the fuse box as well just for any corrosion etc, just incase, can't hurt.
 
heatray999 said:
Hi.

I've a similar issue with charging etc. And have been through all joints and connections from battery to rectifier and ignition switch..

On checking this connection it's only earth for my starter and nothing else. There is another loop and connector on battery itself. Did I miss something?

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Hi . The two earth leads you see in photo with the blue crimps are ones I have added to my loom ,, the bigger of the other two cables comes from the battery whilst the smaller one you can just see disappears into the loom , the other end of it is on the plug for the rectifier,, hope this helps
 
Volgen83 said:
HI all,

I'm after advice/help and have tried almost everything i can think of, have rang around local motorcycle garages and most if not all seem reluctant to help or are unable top.

bit of background on the issue.....

A few months ago my battery went flat, charged the battery and flat again, so out cam the multi meter and found i was not receiving any voltage to the battery from the charging circuit.
traced the fault to the stator.

as mine is an 06 gen2 i first suspected the magnets had come away from inside the stator housing, but i wasn't heading any new rattles or vibration but decided to check it out, all was good as far as i could see with the stator magnets, all on good condition, no wear lines or loose broken bits. so i assumed the actual coil had gone bad. after testing the 3 phases (white wires) one was not giving a reading so replaced the stator coil and the rectifier for good measure.

Now....

I have good voltage from the stator in AC (63V) and climbing as i increase the revs
the rectifier is giving out 13.2 DC at idle and goes upto about 14.7 at 4.5k revs but when i take the readings from the battery terminals (not the cable connectors) im getting 12.8 volts at 4.5k rpm much less than i should be from what i have read in the service manual and online.

replaced the battery, no change.
replaced the ground lead from the battery to the engine, no change
mocked up a bypass to go direct from the rectifier to the battery to see if the plug was pad from the rectifier, no change.
have had the tank air box and most of the front end off to check connectors and clean them, also very carefully unwrapped the wiring harness (which is a pain in the ass) to see if i could find any signs of exposed wire/short and can't find anything out of the ordinary.

replaced the ignition coils as 2 weeks ago i lost a cylinder and the error log on the speedo showed, a power fault and open open circuit on coil 1.
replaced all the coils and treated myself to new spark plugs as it made sense to do it anyway.

i still have the error codes, 33 and 46.

currently running with the main headlight fuse out to conserve voltage which is helping to keep the battery running for now, not ideal i know but at the moment its lighter for longer during the day so not an issue yet.

i have tried taking fuses out to see if the voltage increases, no luck there.

have also tried as best as i can to disconnect lighting plugs etc that i can get too, one by one to see if i gain any substantial voltage increases, no real joy.

i am out of ideas and technical ability at this point and am even considering just binning it for parts and replacing the bike all together out of frustration.

Any help or insight will be very veeeery much appreciated, thanks
Click to expand...
Hi,
Did you fix it? I've same issue here, battery drains in low beam and I can't find what is wrong
 
I have an 09 gen 2. I just went through this. I had the same fault codes after replacing the stator, which I figured would be a good idea , when I did the rotor upgrade. In the end it was a bad ecu. It started with my changing the rotor. I had a leak around the gasket after replacing the rotor. When I went back in to fix the gasket I also bought an after market stator and rectifier, from a reputable company and put them in. I feel like that was the fatal flaw. In addition I put new coils and plugs and was still getting the error. I bought a used ecu from eBay, put it in, and the fault codes went away. I took the bike out for a ride, and it smoked the ignition fuse. When I put the fuse back, it smoked the ecu again. I took the after market stator and rectifier out, replaced them with oem parts, found another ecu, and the bike has been fine since. I sincerely feel as though the aftermarket stator and rectifier made the voltage in the system to high, and that smoked the ecu. After this experience, I’d think twice before I’d ever put after market ignition parts in one of my bikes. The bike had no issues, before this. Hope this helps. I know it’s the news no one wants to hear, but I was in the same place as you guys. Once I had replaced the entire ignition system, and checked the wire harness, and was still getting the fault codes, the ecu was the only thing left.
 
CK44 said:
I have an 09 gen 2. I just went through this. I had the same fault codes after replacing the stator, which I figured would be a good idea , when I did the rotor upgrade. In the end it was a bad ecu. It started with my changing the rotor. I had a leak around the gasket after replacing the rotor. When I went back in to fix the gasket I also bought an after market stator and rectifier, from a reputable company and put them in. I feel like that was the fatal flaw. In addition I put new coils and plugs and was still getting the error. I bought a used ecu from eBay, put it in, and the fault codes went away. I took the bike out for a ride, and it smoked the ignition fuse. When I put the fuse back, it smoked the ecu again. I took the after market stator and rectifier out, replaced them with oem parts, found another ecu, and the bike has been fine since. I sincerely feel as though the aftermarket stator and rectifier made the voltage in the system to high, and that smoked the ecu. After this experience, I’d think twice before I’d ever put after market ignition parts in one of my bikes. The bike had no issues, before this. Hope this helps. I know it’s the news no one wants to hear, but I was in the same place as you guys. Once I had replaced the entire ignition system, and checked the wire harness, and was still getting the fault codes, the ecu was the only thing left.
Click to expand...
Thanks ,I should've known I've already replaced a new aftermarket regulator rectifier and checked the out put ,it's what it supposed to be now but I'm afraid the stator is no good?
 
Volgen83 said:
HI all,

I'm after advice/help and have tried almost everything i can think of, have rang around local motorcycle garages and most if not all seem reluctant to help or are unable top.

bit of background on the issue.....

A few months ago my battery went flat, charged the battery and flat again, so out cam the multi meter and found i was not receiving any voltage to the battery from the charging circuit.
traced the fault to the stator.

as mine is an 06 gen2 i first suspected the magnets had come away from inside the stator housing, but i wasn't heading any new rattles or vibration but decided to check it out, all was good as far as i could see with the stator magnets, all on good condition, no wear lines or loose broken bits. so i assumed the actual coil had gone bad. after testing the 3 phases (white wires) one was not giving a reading so replaced the stator coil and the rectifier for good measure.

Now....

I have good voltage from the stator in AC (63V) and climbing as i increase the revs
the rectifier is giving out 13.2 DC at idle and goes upto about 14.7 at 4.5k revs but when i take the readings from the battery terminals (not the cable connectors) im getting 12.8 volts at 4.5k rpm much less than i should be from what i have read in the service manual and online.

replaced the battery, no change.
replaced the ground lead from the battery to the engine, no change
mocked up a bypass to go direct from the rectifier to the battery to see if the plug was pad from the rectifier, no change.
have had the tank air box and most of the front end off to check connectors and clean them, also very carefully unwrapped the wiring harness (which is a pain in the ass) to see if i could find any signs of exposed wire/short and can't find anything out of the ordinary.

replaced the ignition coils as 2 weeks ago i lost a cylinder and the error log on the speedo showed, a power fault and open open circuit on coil 1.
replaced all the coils and treated myself to new spark plugs as it made sense to do it anyway.

i still have the error codes, 33 and 46.

currently running with the main headlight fuse out to conserve voltage which is helping to keep the battery running for now, not ideal i know but at the moment its lighter for longer during the day so not an issue yet.

i have tried taking fuses out to see if the voltage increases, no luck there.

have also tried as best as i can to disconnect lighting plugs etc that i can get too, one by one to see if i gain any substantial voltage increases, no real joy.

i am out of ideas and technical ability at this point and am even considering just binning it for parts and replacing the bike all together out of frustration.

Any help or insight will be very veeeery much appreciated, thanks
Click to expand...
Same here brother, I can't fix the issue. I'm using my bike everyday so the best way I can do for now is unplug a head lamp. Lmk if you fixed yours
 
Volgen83 said:
HI all,

I'm after advice/help and have tried almost everything i can think of, have rang around local motorcycle garages and most if not all seem reluctant to help or are unable top.

bit of background on the issue.....

A few months ago my battery went flat, charged the battery and flat again, so out cam the multi meter and found i was not receiving any voltage to the battery from the charging circuit.
traced the fault to the stator.

as mine is an 06 gen2 i first suspected the magnets had come away from inside the stator housing, but i wasn't heading any new rattles or vibration but decided to check it out, all was good as far as i could see with the stator magnets, all on good condition, no wear lines or loose broken bits. so i assumed the actual coil had gone bad. after testing the 3 phases (white wires) one was not giving a reading so replaced the stator coil and the rectifier for good measure.

Now....

I have good voltage from the stator in AC (63V) and climbing as i increase the revs
the rectifier is giving out 13.2 DC at idle and goes upto about 14.7 at 4.5k revs but when i take the readings from the battery terminals (not the cable connectors) im getting 12.8 volts at 4.5k rpm much less than i should be from what i have read in the service manual and online.

replaced the battery, no change.
replaced the ground lead from the battery to the engine, no change
mocked up a bypass to go direct from the rectifier to the battery to see if the plug was pad from the rectifier, no change.
have had the tank air box and most of the front end off to check connectors and clean them, also very carefully unwrapped the wiring harness (which is a pain in the ass) to see if i could find any signs of exposed wire/short and can't find anything out of the ordinary.

replaced the ignition coils as 2 weeks ago i lost a cylinder and the error log on the speedo showed, a power fault and open open circuit on coil 1.
replaced all the coils and treated myself to new spark plugs as it made sense to do it anyway.

i still have the error codes, 33 and 46.

currently running with the main headlight fuse out to conserve voltage which is helping to keep the battery running for now, not ideal i know but at the moment its lighter for longer during the day so not an issue yet.

i have tried taking fuses out to see if the voltage increases, no luck there.

have also tried as best as i can to disconnect lighting plugs etc that i can get too, one by one to see if i gain any substantial voltage increases, no real joy.

i am out of ideas and technical ability at this point and am even considering just binning it for parts and replacing the bike all together out of frustration.

Any help or insight will be very veeeery much appreciated, thanks
Click to expand...

I just went through a similar experience. I did the rotor upgrade, but I also purchased a new stator, with the new rotor, from an aftermarket company, I learned about on this forum.

after making the purchase I learned I just needed to replace the rotor, so I did that and the bike was fine, but I nicked the gasket, on the reassembly, so the cover had a slight oil drip. Got another gasket and when I took the bike apart again to replace it, while I was I there I decided to put new stator in. I did that, took it on a test ride and the gauge cluster shut off then the bike shut off. It wound up being the ignition fuse. I changed the fuse, turned on the key and the bike was showing the fault code 33, which is open circuit, cylinder 1 coil. The bike started and I took it for a ride and it shut off again, but this time the fuse was still good, but again the bike was giving me fault code 33.

I upgraded the plugs, coils, and the rectifier, and I checked the entire coil wire harness for continuity, and the bike still wouldn’t start, and was giving me fault code 33. At that point the ignition system was new top to bottom with parts from an aftermarket company. At that point I decided to get an ecu for the bike off of eBay to see what that would do. That fixed the bike, but within an hour it happened again.

may that point I decided to take all the aftermarket ignition parts out, and I replaced them with Yamaha oem parts. I found another yard ecu, and the bike has been fine since. I’ve put 1000 miles on it so far, since then. I think the after market stator and or rectifier were the culprits in my situation. I think there was too much voltage in. The system from the aftermarket parts and it fried the computer.

My advice is this,

You’re bike is showing the same symptoms mine was.

I’d get a yard ecu from a reputable company on eBay like the motoguys. If you bought an aftermarket stator or rectifier, take them out, and replace them with Yamaha Oem parts. Make sure to disconnect the battery when you do the work.

Do that and I don’t think you’ll be disappointed. Hope this helps
 
CK44 said:
I just went through a similar experience. I did the rotor upgrade, but I also purchased a new stator, with the new rotor, from an aftermarket company, I learned about on this forum.

after making the purchase I learned I just needed to replace the rotor, so I did that and the bike was fine, but I nicked the gasket, on the reassembly, so the cover had a slight oil drip. Got another gasket and when I took the bike apart again to replace it, while I was I there I decided to put new stator in. I did that, took it on a test ride and the gauge cluster shut off then the bike shut off. It wound up being the ignition fuse. I changed the fuse, turned on the key and the bike was showing the fault code 33, which is open circuit, cylinder 1 coil. The bike started and I took it for a ride and it shut off again, but this time the fuse was still good, but again the bike was giving me fault code 33.

I upgraded the plugs, coils, and the rectifier, and I checked the entire coil wire harness for continuity, and the bike still wouldn’t start, and was giving me fault code 33. At that point the ignition system was new top to bottom with parts from an aftermarket company. At that point I decided to get an ecu for the bike off of eBay to see what that would do. That fixed the bike, but within an hour it happened again.

may that point I decided to take all the aftermarket ignition parts out, and I replaced them with Yamaha oem parts. I found another yard ecu, and the bike has been fine since. I’ve put 1000 miles on it so far, since then. I think the after market stator and or rectifier were the culprits in my situation. I think there was too much voltage in. The system from the aftermarket parts and it fried the computer.

My advice is this,

You’re bike is showing the same symptoms mine was.

I’d get a yard ecu from a reputable company on eBay like the motoguys. If you bought an aftermarket stator or rectifier, take them out, and replace them with Yamaha Oem parts. Make sure to disconnect the battery when you do the work.

Do that and I don’t think you’ll be disappointed. Hope this helps
Click to expand...

Bye the way, my bike is 09 Gen 2.
 
Hi Volgen , since my elektrikery knowledge is average , I had a problem with a totally dead battery recently on my Tiger . I left the parking lights on overnight ( ye dolt ). I got this checklist from a triumph owners site , hope it helps mate , as G97372D13-9878-40F5-8492-B56AB0DE744F.jpeg0E881751-D8F6-4621-B244-9A77B10A8008.jpeg0E881751-D8F6-4621-B244-9A77B10A8008.jpeg9C59E54E-B0BB-4257-9815-730E2EE4D27F.jpeg
 
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