'07 FZ1 - starts and dies, fault code 12, 30, 70, codes won't clear - SOLVED!

E

eggs_for_rent

Member
Visit site
I have a few codes on an '07 Yamaha FZ1 I am working on for a friend. (It will start and run for 1 second and cut off)

My first step was to go into diagnostic mode to check if there were any codes, and there were, but, the codes are likely from us trying to start it with a weak battery. One code was for the crankshaft position sensor, so I tested with a multi-meter and it ohms within an acceptable range. The other was for a tilt sensor which according to diagnostic mode is at an acceptable voltage. So anyhow we've replaced the battery with a new one and have discovered switching the stop switch to run when in d62 is not clearing them.

What is even more odd that when in diagnostic mode d36 - flipping the kill switch to run to test the #1 fuel injector for example does not seem to do anything either? My understanding is the engine light is supposed to illuminate 5 times as the injector is activated...which is not happening.

Bad stop switch possibly? Or a bad connection in the wiring between the computer and stop switch? That is what I will check first unless anyone has a better idea.
 
I was riding my 2009 gen 2 and the orange engine light kept coming on, sometimes a couple mins after start up and sometimes on my way home from a 20 min ride. Turned out to be loose battery connection even though I really had to shove it to get it to move (terminals) it seemed tight but was not. After tightening, the orange light still came on after initial start but cleared after a minute and has been no problem since. So I learnt that just because all your electrics may work and seem good, even start up and run, they may not be in fact. So really make sure you have really good connections and a good battery.
 
Thanks for your input. I have a brand new battery, fully charged, with clean, tight connections and that has made no change in symptoms. It will start and run for 1 second and die, opening the throttle and starting makes it rev and die.

I've already tested the CPS and it tested good...Checked all fuses yesterday, nothing blown. Going to start testing the lean angle sensor and relay box, do some probing to see if there is a bad connection or short/ bad connection in wiring.

Still unable to clear codes in diagnostic mode?!
 
Ok so I'll attempt to explain this as best I can although I honestly do not understand how or why it happened.

2007 FZ1 with 4200 miles on it. My friend bought it with 700 miles on it and it ran fine until it wouldn't start one day, it would just click. He put a new solenoid in it, it started and he kept on riding. I'm not sure how much time lapsed... but eventually it wouldn't stay running.

I came along a year or 2 later and the bike was somewhat disassembled with a totally dead battery... we replaced the battery with no change in symptoms. The faults would not clear and none of the tests that should activate the actuators did anything... it would start and die immediately.

So today I put it in diagnostic mode to clear the codes as I have done numerous times, flipped the kill switch to run and nada, nothing...codes are still there so I decided to tap the start button very quickly... and voila the codes cleared! It still wouldn't run but no more codes.

So I turned the ignition off, back on and tried to start it, but I held down the start button seeing as how this start button magically does things it shouldn't do all of a sudden... and it ran as long as I held the starter button down and died as soon as I released it. So this thing thing is acting bizarre, it stops when you go to start it and runs when you hold the start button?! It's like the solenoid reversed itself... or the starter relay is working backwards somehow which isn't possible as best I know.

So we switched the wires on the solenoid, expecting to blow the main fuse or fry something but it didn't, it started and ran, we put it all back together and he went for a ride down the block...

Someone much smarter than me can likely figure out how the bike ran with the solenoid wired backwards for so long...or why it works now with the wires switched... but the issue is solved. I went into diagnostic mode and all of the actuators work now, no codes.

Next up an oil change, new air filter, plug and coil inspection and a bath / wax and polish... the bike is up for sale come spring.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top