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How to improve MPG in my 2009?

Dreamdemon said:
Put the ideal hot to 1200 or 1300, 1000 is too low, the oilpump does not work well below 1200. If the throttle bodies are out of sync the rpm are jumping a bit at ideal, however if it is less than 1000 than this will always be the case.
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Is the idle being low and not getting the oil circulating well why my bike seems to heat up a lot faster than my Fz6 while sitting at lights or in traffic?

I figured it was because of the bigger engine, but the fan kicks on all the time when the temp gets over 206-210. Highest temp has been 216 but that was only once.

I was just going to do an oil change this weekend but I can't wait to get the Morgan Carbtune on the thing and see how smooth I can get it.
 
magpiemale said:
If you give the throttle 3500 worthof revs ya might as well get a 125cc fz1's love above 6000 revs......mpg is a pain but it is classed as a street bike .
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that was the consensus recommendation after I crashed my Fz6. it's too late I've joined the darkside. I'm hooked like a hooker on coke, a junkie on smack or a sex addict at a porn star swingers party. choose your vice, mine is motorcycles.

I still need I get a tune up, she's starting to get a click around 4000 rpm and a harsh vibration from 6000-8000. the idle jumps by about 100-300 rpm
any thoughts.???
 
CrazyBiker said:
Sync the throttle bodies, grease the electric connectors and lastly check the coils and TPS
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So uhhh, yeah, uhhh when can I expect those TPS reports on my desk? (lol, great movie)

Waiting on the Carbtune in the mail for the throttle body sync, it said it would be here Saturday, but I will bet Monday coming from the UK. When you say electric connectors are you talking about at the spark plugs connecting to the caps? How would I check the coil? How would I check theTPS? (links will be fine)

I just found this video, is this the same thing you are talking about?

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKWeHYtI9QY]Testing Motorcycle Throttle Position Sensor: Checking Ohms with a multimeter - YouTube[/ame]

I'm a noob but am loving getting my hands dirty.

I plan on doing an oil change to full synthetic Yamalube 15-50. Also a radiator flush to Yamacool 60/40 this Sunday. I have been running a little hot sometimes during traffic and frequent stops. I'm thinking it may be as someone pointed out if the idle is too low it doesn't circulate the oil well. My idle right now is set down at 900-1000 rpm hot.
 
Ohh, interesting enough, I stopped going to the shell by me and went 3 miles up the street to the Chevron for the last 3 fill ups. I seem to be creeping from 25-28 mpg to over 30. I also got some Engine MedRx (from Yamaha) and have used that for 2 tanks. It's making some funny smells but I think it is helping as well.
 
yo ss

i dont know if it was mentioned before but if your bike is running lean it will cause your bike to run hot also keeping your chain well lubed will also improve milage
 
Ssky0078 said:
that was the consensus recommendation after I crashed my Fz6. it's too late I've joined the darkside. I'm hooked like a hooker on coke, a junkie on smack or a sex addict at a porn star swingers party. choose your vice, mine is motorcycles.

I still need I get a tune up, she's starting to get a click around 4000 rpm and a harsh vibration from 6000-8000. the idle jumps by about 100-300 rpm
any thoughts.???
Click to expand...

Just a thought on this...which version of the FZ6 did you have. The earlier ones had a good bit more power than the later FZ6R...starting in 2009, I believe. Think the earlier ones had something lie 97 HP... the newer ones , maybe 20HP less. So.. did you transition from strong to stronger (the FZ1) or weak to strong? Is this where your addiction comes from?
 
lindy said:
Just a thought on this...which version of the FZ6 did you have. The earlier ones had a good bit more power than the later FZ6R...starting in 2009, I believe. Think the earlier ones had something lie 97 HP... the newer ones , maybe 20HP less. So.. did you transition from strong to stronger (the FZ1) or weak to strong? Is this where your addiction comes from?
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I had a 2008 Fz6 (97hp) version. My addiction probably traces back to when I was 16 and the first car I learned to drive on was a 1982 Mercury Cougar 5.0 4speed. That lasted all of a month or two before my parents put me into a 1986 Pontiac 6000ste. From the age of 24-34 I intentionally bought 4 cylinder manual transmissions to stop myself from going to fast. Even then I've always pushed how hard I could go in each and every car, even at one point I had a 2 door Jeep Cherokee that I got all 4 tires off the ground going 55 on 25mph back country dirt road Dukes of Hazard style.

It's hard here in AZ, the roads are flat and dry with most often not any hazards (except the gravel I found on the Fz6, lol). Seriously though crashing the Fz1 has scared me finally. Every time now I get the urge to rip on the throttle my mind recoils the same way going to pick up a pan after being burned will make you hesitate. I notice with the Fz1 if I get on the throttle hard its for a second, maybe even just a half a second, because the speed change in that half a second is so much I don't want to go too far. I'm a lot more concious in being able to stop and turn, lol.
 
Lonney said:
yo ss

i dont know if it was mentioned before but if your bike is running lean it will cause your bike to run hot also keeping your chain well lubed will also improve milage
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Thanks I'll lube the chain up again today then. I've only got about 200 miles since the last time I did it. The previous owner or the dealer had put this white silicone sh!t on the chain. I like the PJ1 chain lube & cleaner and have been recommended to switch over to Maxima(maximum?) Chain Lube.

You know what I haven't bothered to check, but maybe the previous owner had put a K&N filter on the bike. I had spoke with Two Brothers Racing before about filters, PC's and exhaust. He said you never want to just put an aftermarket air filter on without a PC because the bike will run lean. Ahhh, thank you so much for pointing this out, I'll have to take a look when I go to do the oil tomorrow.
 
I put over 2000 miles on my 06 before I put it away for the winter. I bought it lst August with 4k miles. I got a consistant 44-45 mpg over those miles. My FZ in bone stock and I did get on it plenty for the fun factor of having a new bike. Most of my riding was on the hwy too. Alot of that loaded down with luggage. I don't understand why so many FZ owners get such crappy mpg. It doesn't make sense, but I will admit I am gladto have mine and the mpg I get. That is also the reason I am leaving mine as Yamaha built it. Besides I am considering having my ecm reprogrammed. but will not do it if it will cost me mpg. I can live with the snatch and high rpm power band. Besides I do enjoy it tremendously more now than my previos bike (honda 1100 cruiser)

If I can somehow help I would be glad to. Let me know if you have any specific ?'s I will answer them if I know the answer
 
Brian7cees said:
I put over 2000 miles on my 06 before I put it away for the winter. I bought it lst August with 4k miles. I got a consistant 44-45 mpg over those miles. My FZ in bone stock and I did get on it plenty for the fun factor of having a new bike. Most of my riding was on the hwy too. Alot of that loaded down with luggage. I don't understand why so many FZ owners get such crappy mpg. It doesn't make sense, but I will admit I am gladto have mine and the mpg I get. That is also the reason I am leaving mine as Yamaha built it. Besides I am considering having my ecm reprogrammed. but will not do it if it will cost me mpg. I can live with the snatch and high rpm power band. Besides I do enjoy it tremendously more now than my previos bike (honda 1100 cruiser)

If I can somehow help I would be glad to. Let me know if you have any specific ?'s I will answer them if I know the answer
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thank you for the offer.

Through my research I've found that the original twitchy throttle (a leaner throttle mapping) in the 2006-2008 models led to slightly better fuel mileage in the high 30s, then in 2009-11 with the ECU remap to fix the twitchy throttle (richer throttle mapping in low rpms) the mileage dropped down to the low 30s. Then in 2012 there was another adjustment to the ECU to bring up the fuel mileage to the mid 30s.

I've noticed that I'm in city traffic a lot and on deceleration from around 50-55 in third gear at around 4000 rpms, I'll still get the AIS popping, which means there is just wasted fuel in the header. I've even tried lugging the engine and still get the popping. I dont' think lugging the engine way down is the right thing either because the whole purpose of an efficient internal combustion engine is to generate the most force (work) to the wheel with the least amount of internal resistance. I've tried shifting up a gear for the city and one I don't feel safe as I feel the responsiveness can't get me out of the way of the idiots and two I didn't notice any difference in mileage. The only improvement in mileage I've ever had is when I just rode around on the freeway and it only incresed my mpg by 2-3.

So my thoughts at this point are to either do a PCV(ex) with a better fuel control map for city riding and fuel mileage, increase the spark to help burn that wasted fuel or find a second bike like a BMW G650GS (my buddy gets 50-60 mpg) and commute on that.
 
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Ssky0078 said:
thank you for the offer.

So my thoughts at this point are to either do a PCV(ex) with a better fuel control map for city riding and fuel mileage, increase the spark to help burn that wasted fuel or find a second bike like a BMW G650GS (my buddy gets 50-60 mpg) and commute on that.
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Well a liter bike will never have the mpg of a 600 and city driving is not good for such a heavy bike which has all the power at the top end.
I think a mpg of about 30-35 is all you will get with any liter bike (in the city).
 
Dreamdemon said:
Well a liter bike will never have the mpg of a 600 and city driving is not good for such a heavy bike which has all the power at the top end.
I think a mpg of about 30-35 is all you will get with any liter bike (in the city).
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well you may be right but I get 25-27 city and 31 on highway. I'll let you know after I get it all fixed up
 
:Rockon: Morgan Carbtune showed up today. I will get a chance to go after the throttle body sync. I do get a rough idle and when it is warm it will drop down to 900-1000 rpms and bounce up to 1100. I believe a number of people have suggested to set the idle around 1250-1350 and to sync the bodies close to 2-4mm.

Any thoughts or words of wisdom would be appreciated before I embark on this adventure?

I plan to do it on Sunday.
 
Ssky0078 said:
thank you for the offer.

Through my research I've found that the original twitchy throttle (a leaner throttle mapping) in the 2006-2008 models led to slightly better fuel mileage in the high 30s, then in 2009-11 with the ECU remap to fix the twitchy throttle (richer throttle mapping in low rpms) the mileage dropped down to the low 30s. Then in 2012 there was another adjustment to the ECU to bring up the fuel mileage to the mid 30s.

I've noticed that I'm in city traffic a lot and on deceleration from around 50-55 in third gear at around 4000 rpms, I'll still get the AIS popping, which means there is just wasted fuel in the header. I've even tried lugging the engine and still get the popping. I dont' think lugging the engine way down is the right thing either because the whole purpose of an efficient internal combustion engine is to generate the most force (work) to the wheel with the least amount of internal resistance. I've tried shifting up a gear for the city and one I don't feel safe as I feel the responsiveness can't get me out of the way of the idiots and two I didn't notice any difference in mileage. The only improvement in mileage I've ever had is when I just rode around on the freeway and it only incresed my mpg by 2-3.

So my thoughts at this point are to either do a PCV(ex) with a better fuel control map for city riding and fuel mileage, increase the spark to help burn that wasted fuel or find a second bike like a BMW G650GS (my buddy gets 50-60 mpg) and commute on that.
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I don't mean to sound harsh.. but I'm not understanding why you are so concerned about the mileage.

The cost of a second bike - and the insurance for that second bike - and the upkeep for that second bike - would buy a lot of gallons of gas.

Is this really a matter of economics or is this rather a pursuit - for pursuit's sake?
 
Lindy is so right. Buying another bike to save money is not cost effective in any way. I think you're just chasing dragons here. Look at the averages on Fuelly and you'll see that your generation of FZ1 is what it is in regards to MPG. Get yours all tuned up and working to spec and enjoy :)
 
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