Chain question before purchase

ghetto_d

Well-Known Member
OK guys, so this winter I'm finally going to do the 520 conversion. bike still only has 10k miles on it, but i'm ready to upgrade the drive system. much to my dismay, I've been hearing that 122 links is the number needed. I'm sticking pretty close to factory tooth count (-1 front; rear stock) when i swap out the sprockets. the question is: do I really need 122 links? as in, buy a 150 length, and and cut nearly all those extra links off? (I'm set on EK, who offers 120, then 150 link chains). sounds like just my luck...
 
I've been seeing 122 floating around in my searches. I guess that's going to be the number you need to shoot for but if the chain you want doesn't offer 125 or 130 links, I guess you're left with cutting off a huge chunk. Sucks. Might I suggest looking at DID for a chain?
 
well, that's a pretty cool deal there; but i've already bought the sprockets! for others info though, yeah that's a sweet deal at sprocket center. i prefer to hand pick all the components though, so sometimes i pay more, sometimes i pay less. i'm going with an 100% AL rear, so we'll see how long it lasts. Dicko, you're running a CAT5, right? how many lil ponies are you putting to the ground?
 
I run a DID gold on black chain, stock size (530) on a Vortex Cat5 rear sprocket with a 48 tooth count. Last time it was on the dyno it was 153hp. But I wouldn't read too much of that from the chain.
 
dicko - wasn't looking to attribute the power to the chain; merely wondering how the aluminum sprocket is holding up with all that power... DUH! :p
 
You can buy steel rear sprockets that aren't too much heavier than Aluminium. Personally I'd go steel over Aluminium any day.

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I've never tried alu. sprockets before. I've always been curious to see what a lightweight chain & sprocket set would feel like as a direct comparison to stock. It makes no sense to run performance parts as I need durability and long life.
 
A sprocket alone makes very little difference. I bought a pair of Marchesini Ali rims and the sprocket came already mounted on them. The Ali rims made a HUGE difference, the light weight made acceleration and change of direction a heck of a lot better. If I were to buy a replacement rear sprocket, I would likely get the ali/steel combo or similar that Ballmeed posted.
 
While my fz is pumping out a considerable amount more power than factory, I think aluminum will be fine. I've never ran one, figured I would give it a try. I run a super sprox on my R1, but would like to go even lighter, so time will tell... Although the R1 is putting down quite a bit more power though, so I'll pprobably hhave to stick with the tri-metal .
 
Make sure you get a good chain break first

OK guys, so this winter I'm finally going to do the 520 conversion. bike still only has 10k miles on it, but i'm ready to upgrade the drive system. much to my dismay, I've been hearing that 122 links is the number needed. I'm sticking pretty close to factory tooth count (-1 front; rear stock) when i swap out the sprockets. the question is: do I really need 122 links? as in, buy a 150 length, and and cut nearly all those extra links off? (I'm set on EK, who offers 120, then 150 link chains). sounds like just my luck...

There is almost no chance of a perfect fit without a good chain break. Here is one - https://www.amazon.com/Koch-7725010...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=K09HJN8X90R1SRC9E3VZ

then get the long cheap chain like this one - https://www.amazon.com/RK-Racing-Ch...&qid=1483455493&sr=1-1&keywords=520+chain+140


remember, the only reason to do this is to use lightweight aluminum MX sprockets that are cheap and lightweight, it is a downgrade for durability, not an upgrade.
 
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