Chain and sprocket suggestions/help

Hey guys, I've just hit over 23,000 miles and my chain looks to need replacing. I admit I haven't cleaned it as often as I should have. I'm sure others have made it much longer. Anyway, I just wanted some advise on what chain and sprockets I should use. I want to keep the stock gearing. I'm sure I'd love one tooth down in the front, but I take too many long trips and I don't want the extra RPM at highway speeds.

I would like to go with a gold chain, and I think I want to stick with the 530. I won't replace a chain without replacing sprockets too. I think I want a stock front sprocket due to the rubber dampeners around the sides. The rear sprocket I'm open to suggestions on brands. It would be nice to have some gold on it too.

Then I come to the help part. I've never changed a chain before. I'm considering doing it myself with the help of my father-in-law. After watching a few YouTube videos, I think I will need a chain cutter/breaker and the rivet flatten-er (I don't know the proper term) Any other advise or video links would be helpful. Thanks.
 
I ran a ek-zzz, after my stretch, it was 146 links and i had zero problems with it. The zzz is nice and strong my friend uses it on his 450rwhp busa without any problems.
 
I have tried several brands of chains and had the best results with DID, specifically their mid-range VX (used to be VM) chains. That coupled with JT steel sprockets in stock sizes is my go-to.
 
My stock chain was still within service specs after 30K miles, so I bought a stock replacement along with stock rear sprocket and Gen1 stock 16T front sprocket. I painted the rear sprocket black. The few hundred RPM more is not noticable after the reflash and mileage is better than stock for me.
 
I'm right there with you. I have about 23K miles on the bike and just ordered a chain and sprockets a couple of nights ago.

I ordered a DID 530 ZVMX Super Street Series X'ring Sealed Chain, 122 Links, Gold Plated Links - SKU# DA530ZVMX-122-GG. The best price I found was at Sprocket Center for $187 with free shipping.

DID 530 ZVMX Super Street Series X'ring Sealed Chain

I ordered OEM sprockets from Ron Ayers with free shipping, but found that Sprocket Center was about $8 cheaper on those, even after considering the shipping cost. Sprocket Center has a good selection of stock type sprockets, and I like to use either JT or Sunstar sprockets.

OE Sprockets - FZ-1 2006-2013 - Yamaha - STREET Sprockets & Kits

Here's what I ordered from Ron Ayers ...

2D1-25445-20-00 SPROCKET, DRIVEN (45) $42.80
5VY-13354-00-00 SPROCKET, DRIVE $37.84 <----- This is the wrong part. Don't order this!

Correct part number for the front sprocket should be

3CV-17460-00-00 SPROCKET,DRIVE 17T $21.20


I also ordered new chain slack adjusting hardware - the nuts and bolts. The locking nuts were starting to get a little rounded off on my bike.

95333-08600-00 NUT (6L2)
90101-08013-00 BOLT

Anyways I hope this helps.

Oh yeah, and I am just using a chain breaker tool kit I got from Cycle Gear. I can't remember the brand name. It's decent, but it's not a high end name brand or anything like that. It gets the job done though.

EDIT: I ordered the wrong part number for the front sprocket. Sorry folks, I hope no one followed after what I did. The other parts appear to be correct.
 
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I'm not sure I do need to change my chain just yet. After a very thorough cleaning, and tightening, it seems to be much better. If it loosens up again quickly, I will get the new chain and sprockets over the winter. Thanks for all the suggestions. I will let you know what I choose and when.

I don't know if this will help anyone else looking through the thread, but here's a video from SportBike Track Gear dot com about changing your chain...
[video=youtube;rAuTNnmaF8w]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAuTNnmaF8w[/video]
 
Hi BD
To check the chain you look for longer sections of it, than pull from the chain in the middle of the rear sprocket if you can see a tooth change it right away and also if you have to readjust it in 600miles or so I would change it.

To change it you need a riveter/braker and a vernier or digital caliper , 32mm socket and impact air wrench (is nice ) some locktite mid for the sprocket carrier nuts.

It's important to press the chain link with the riveter as close to the other links, press in small increments and measure with the caliper.

If you go for a Regina chain the link requires a different riveter as the pins are not hollow
 
Hi BD
To check the chain you look for longer sections of it, than pull from the chain in the middle of the rear sprocket if you can see a tooth change it right away and also if you have to readjust it in 600miles or so I would change it.

To change it you need a riveter/braker and a vernier or digital caliper , 32mm socket and impact air wrench (is nice ) some locktite mid for the sprocket carrier nuts.

It's important to press the chain link with the riveter as close to the other links, press in small increments and measure with the caliper.

If you go for a Regina chain the link requires a different riveter as the pins are not hollow

Thanks for the info. I've checked for tight links after cleaning and there are a few that don't move as well as they should, but the rear sprocket teeth look good. I think I'll be OK. I didn't think the cleaning would make such drastic improvements. I was very bad and hadn't cleaned my chain since my Dragon trip the first week of Sept and I did ride in the rain a few times on that trip. I know it was very bad of me not to clean it sooner, but I just didn't get to it. I plan to take more more moderate trip before the end of the season, so I will see how the chain holds up. I still may replace the chain and sprockets next season if the chain "stretches" out on this trip too.

Thank you to everyone who offered advise.
 
Thanks for the info. I've checked for tight links after cleaning and there are a few that don't move as well as they should, but the rear sprocket teeth look good. I think I'll be OK. I didn't think the cleaning would make such drastic improvements. I was very bad and hadn't cleaned my chain since my Dragon trip the first week of Sept and I did ride in the rain a few times on that trip. I know it was very bad of me not to clean it sooner, but I just didn't get to it. I plan to take more more moderate trip before the end of the season, so I will see how the chain holds up. I still may replace the chain and sprockets next season if the chain "stretches" out on this trip too.

Thank you to everyone who offered advise.

The rear sprocket always looks good because it has a lot of teeth, the front sprocket is the one that shows wear first. Also check for redish rusty looking spots on the chain, that usually is oil form the O or X rings and not rust. Once you see this change the chain, the lubrication is not there anymore and the chain could tear. Most people that clean their chains very often overlook this. I clean the cahin about every 1000 miles and after 24-26k I always get broken O,X-rings and replace the chain, length and the rest is usually still ok but some links do not move anymore (that's the one with the failed O,X-rings) so if you have tight links change the chain. You do not want a teared chain, much to dangerous. 24k is a huge thing for a chain, back in German I was lucky to get 20k kilometers out of chain but that was a lot of high spped riding (120-140 mph 30% of the time).
 
I replaced my stock chain on the 2008 after 30,000 miles. Did the sprockets at the same time (16t on the front). Chain was a DID Gold VX530.

Wear on the sprockets was noticeable, but not excessive. Chain measured within specifications. I replaced it because fo the "redish rusty looking spots" that Dreamdeamon mentions.

I purchased a MotionPro tool (through Amazon) and was able to get the job done, but it was pretty tough and a couple of parts (of the chain tool) broke during the process. If you're going to get a chain tool, get something a little bigger. Chain and sprockets were purchased as a "kit" from rpemotorcycles on eBay.
 
I ordered the wrong part number for the front sprocket. Sorry folks, I hope no one followed after what I did. The other parts appear to be correct.


Correct part number for the front sprocket should be

3CV-17460-00-00 SPROCKET,DRIVE 17T $21.20
 
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