2009 US Naked conversion. help.

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femanvate

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My 09 FZ1 and I want to lose the half-fairing and make it FZ1N. Does anyone know what, where and how to get the necessary parts in the US? Remember seeing somewhere someone ordered them from the UK. I'd prefer new OEM Yamaha parts, but if good quality aftermarket exists, that may work as well. Thanks.
 
On the other FZ1 message board someone was kind enough to post an OEM parts list with numbers for the conversion. I took all the part numbers in to my local dealership and they ordered them direct from Yamaha. It included everything except the wiring harness, but you can just cut down the one in your bike. If the price of the OE parts makes you Ill, Partshark has a great conversion kit which is more or less plug and play.
 
http://www.998cc.org/forum/fz1-streetfighter/17076-beast-mod-thread-2.html#post138846

This is out of my conversion thread. I tried to do a pretty good job typing up the whole thing. But, of course I missed some in this post, and in the rest of the thread there is other stuff I ran into

I ordered the parts kit from Partshark.com. I would strongly encourage you to order the kit with the naked radiator guards.
http://www.partshark.com/catalog_product_detail.asp?cat=5661-70510&product=906959

Ssky0078 said:
Here is the break down for the Fz1n Euro Headlight Conversion kit.

Remove all the old hardware.
1. Remove windshield and wrap up in foam or bubble wrap
2. Remove inner fairing cowls.
3. Remove mirrors (2 bolts on each, and watch out for the SS inner collar)
4. Remove the turn signals (remove the plastic clips) (I marked my right side with red electrical tape and taped to the right headlight plug, this is helpful later)
5. Remove fairings (be mindful to detach the wiring harness from the inside of the fairing)
6. Remove the headlights (mark the right and left)
7. Remove the Speedo Gauge Cluster (you don’t have to remove from wiring harness)
8. Remove the Fairing Stay
9. Remove the steel wire brackets on left and right (I had to snip the left side ones to get off)


Prep of remaining parts
1. Remove the horn (either completely or let hang)
2. Remove the bolt holding the y joint for the front brakes
3. Remove the clutch cable
4. Remove the headlight/turn signal instrument mount from the handlebar
5. Optional: Remove the brake lines (Ideally you’d swap for SS lines, the factory line is zip tied to the fork and interferes with the new fairing stay)


Prep of the Headlight kit
1. On the new fairing stay use 3 of the rubber grommets to put in the top rings that will mount the Speedo cluster
2. Use the other 4 rubber grommets on the left and right naked fairing brackets
3. Mount the left and right fairing brackets on to the back of the headlight by threading the posts through the rubber grommet. (the end with the turn signal hole goes to the top or the squared end of the headlight)
4. Use the silver Phillips screws with washers to screw down the headlight to the left and right fairing.
5. I got rid of the euro harness, if you keep it then you would use the black screws to mount the two metal brackets that hold the plugs for the turn signals.
6. Mount the turn signals that you’ll be using and prep the wires for easy plug in.
7. I also swapped the halogen H4 for a xenon super white bulb while this was off. I kind of wish I went with a PIAA or an HID setup. The light from the single xenon is good about the same as the single headlight (pre-BD43 dual headlight mod) but I could do with a little more.


Install of new stuff.
1. Note: there is a lot of variability to how to run the wires, the only one I was really concerned about was the clutch cable, I wanted to make sure that had the easiest travel, I have noticed that there is some change in play at full turn right, but going straight is no problem. I am going to see if I can take the Euro harness to a connector fabricator shop and see if I can get a custom made setup to use it and the brow lights.

2. Put on new fairing stay (bracket). The throttle cables and brake line goes into a grove on the right side of the bracket (left when looking at it). The left side is trickier, ideally you would run both the clutch cable and headlight/turn signal line through the bracket, I just pushed the lighting wire out of the way and ran the clutch cable through the bracket. Reattach your clutch cable and lighting wire harness and if it allows for full movement I figured ok.

3. I re-used the 8mm bolts that were holding the steel wire brackets in place to mount the top half of the new fairing stay

4. I used the black 8mm bolts that came with the kit on the lower bracket. *** note be sure to put the fairing stay to the triple and then the horn over the top otherwise the anglfe of light will be way screwed up.*** I installed the horn side first (right side while looking at it) and then the other side (left side looking at it) and finally remounted the brake line bolt (for now, I’m getting SS lines installed next week when I get my new Master cylinder. **** if you keep the factory brake lines, odds are it will interfere with the right side of the new fairing bracket. ***

5. Check and make sure everything is secure (I did not use lock-tite but am considering it and would appreciate opinions)

6. Now you are ready for the Speedo Cluster. Fit it through the rubber grommets and secure with the Phillips screw with washer. There is a groove on the left (facing the headlight) the is for running the speedo wiring harness through.

7. Fit the speedo cover to the back of the speedo and secure using the security bolts (5/32 hex bolts, short ones)

8. Now you are ready for the headlight **** If using the original wiring harness Yamaha Part Number: 3C3-84359-10-00 (Partshark $90) either headlight plug will work, I think I used the right because it brought the right side turn signal closer to the opening on the naked fairing bracket for the turn signal.**** plug the wiring harness into the headlight and turn signals (you may need to run an extension from the left side plug to be able to get it up there, I’m using aftermarket lights and had extra line already). Turn on the bike and check the high and low beam, then the turn signals and that the speedo-cluster is working properly.

9. Slide the headlight fairing brackets onto the fairing stay. Use the bigger 5/32 hex bolts to install. I slipped a few times and would recommend that you hold up the headlight and just start the threads on the top left and then right side. After they are hand snug, then I would do the bottom left and right. Turn the bike back on and check the angle (was an issue for me because I still had the stock brake line on there in the way (thinking about it, maybe if you take it off the fork and run it through the fairing stay (facing left side wire bracket) it would work better). Once you feel you have a good angle use the 5/32 hex key to finish tightening and making sure that the light direction is where you want it.

10. Microfiber cleaning towel off any or all smudges and you are ready to go.


NOTE: I did not use the brow lights, yet. I am going to take the Euro Harness to a electrical connector guy and see if we can test it out, to determine if I can get a matching male plug that I can wire up. Luckily the guy that I’ve ridden with for both of my Crashes is an electrical engineer. I suck at wiring stuff.


When I go to clean up the wiring I'll take clear pictures and figure out how to draw on them. I had to hurry up when I did it, because I was getting tired and I have to ride to work. I like lists anyway. If anybody has corrections, pointers let me know.

Also I'll post this in it's own thread on the Streetfighter forum so that it is easy to search
Click to expand...

I would also strongly recommend getting a second wiring harness that you can chop up, it made a huge difference in the final product and I post pics and discuss a little in the thread.

I would strongly encourage upgrading to a set of Stainless Steel braided lines during the conversion. at 2009 you are technically supposed to replace the factory lines anyway and the way the mounting harness for the headlight attaches to the bike, the factory line was in the way and I couldn't put the final mounting bolt in until I had the SS-lines installed.

For mirrors, I ordered and installed Fz8 Master Cylinder and Clutch Perch then was lucky enough to get a donated set of mirrors from a guy on the Fz8 forum. Other people went with Rizoma stuff but that was out of my budget.

I would also consider if you are going to do the HID Projector Retrofit, then send it to Rabbitman before you get into the conversion. That way you can plan for placing ballast and wiring under airbox.

Have fun, I absolutely love, and I mean love my naked bike

p.s. a thread on the Fz1OA forum that got most of the information I used, http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106651
 
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I mostly used the above walk through (thanks by the way) - I ordered a second harness to cut it up and wire more efficiently but the conversion could be done without that. It's really pretty straightforward I'd just definitely recommend la elling all your nuts and bolts so u don't lose any or forget to put them back. The part shark kit comes with pretty much everything you need except a couple screws you will have to reuse. I ordered mine with the radiator guards but the stock guards use two shorter bolts and two longer bolts while the n guards require four shorter bolts - I still haven't gotten two more and have been riding without the guards but that is something you want to keep ur eyes on.
Also for the fairing stays, I cut my stock bracket so I didn't have to deal with having to take off all my brake lines etc - but I suppose the better way to do this is to plan ahead and get some ss braided lines and do that with the conversion.


There's my brain diarrhea for now - post back if u have questions there's plenty of people here who will help out
 
Thanks for the info

Thanks all for the excellent info!
Looks like a little more $$ than I thought, but I bought this bike with the full expectation to get rid of the fairing, and it's time.
Will post pics of the transformation, and still open to any addl tips
:welcome:
 
I just bought a 2006 Fz1 and plan on doing the euro conversion. This was a great thread, and yes I know it's an older threat, but I'm hoping for a response to my question.

Can the stock indicators be used with the conversion kit or will I have to buy new indicators??
 
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